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ALEX P

Alex's 3.6 Engine Transplant

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Another thread veers crazily off-topic.

 

Good luck with your conversion Alex - I'm looking forward to your future posts.

+1 x 2

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Thanks for all the comments guys.

 

Dont worry - brakes are on the shopping list, insurance company asked the same thing!

 

I've removed the cat, fan blower, airbox, heat insulation, engine support & tinware but got a bit stuck with the bottom pulley.

I removed the bolt & was hoping that it would just slide off but didn't want to force it - does anyone know the best way to remove this?

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It should just come off Alex, try a few light taps with a soft mallet to break any seal which may have developed over the years. Failing that, try a puller. What are you going to do about that big chunk of alloy which the mounts the A/C pump? Porsche supply an alloy casting for non A/C cars which sits flush with the rear tin but is £££, to save on that a lot of folk have just taken a saw to the existing mount and cut off the excess.

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a lot of folk have just taken a saw to the existing mount and cut off the excess.

 

I'm sharpening up my saw as we speak!

 

Cheers for that, I'll give it a bit more 'persuasion', just didn't want to force it if there was something else holding it on.

 

Generally do people make up a new bung in place of the power steering bracket at the rear or just butcher the existing one using the seals that are already there by cutting this section out, binning the rest then putting a plate over the front?

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You can either spank 60 odd quid (like me) on an off-the shelf turned alloy blank from the States which no-one will ever see or fab yourself something up for a lot less.

 

 

tinMedium-1.jpg

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Gotcha, I'll see if I can get something knocked up & if that fails, I'll have to line PM pockets. When you said 'try a puller' what did you mean?

 

I took the alternator & fan off to get better access to the pulley & gave it a few little knocks with a soft mallet, then tryed using a block of wood as a wedge but it aint shiftin!

 

The cap head screws (10-off) on the pulley definately don't need to be undone no? (they're on there pretty tight) The whole pulley should just wriggle off?

 

When you said 'try a puller' what did you mean?

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Like this

 

35228_p.jpg

 

ETA - go steady though, cast pulleys are easily broken and pressed steel ones are easy to bend out of round with a puller.

 

It should'nt be too stuck.

Edited by burgundyben

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Thanks for the advice, I thought thats what you meant but wanted to make sure.

Tried a bearing puller but it didn't fit too well as the a/c bracket that I'm trying to remove didn't quite give it enough room to get the legs in properly but I managed to wind it up to a reasonable tension wih socket attached but backed off as it should have given a little bit with that much pressure on it so just decided the best action was to swear at it & walk away.

 

Anybody else had this problem? Any ideas welcome.

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tap it on the edges gently with a hammer ,mine was stuck and it came of this way

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Handy pic for you this Alex(nice 1 tripe):

tinMedium-1.jpg

 

It shows the extended oil pipe compared to yours and also how the other oil pipe fits instead of from behind the engine. And of course Tripes tinware mod :)

 

Your idea of butchering the PS housing isnt bad you know - you will never need that bit and probably not worth selling so worth a go for a cheap solution. Use a new o-ring tho.

 

Try the puller again but give the pulley a tap while the pressure in on the puller - might crack it free.

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O.k, thanks for the help guys. Bearing puller and tap the pulley - if that's not working maybe a bit of localised heat on the pulley.

Failing that BFH & angle grinder!

 

Oil pipes are longer than I thought (cheers for the pic Tripe), I guess they've got to easily clear the heat exchanger for access.

 

On a completely separate note, when painting up bits of tinware, fan etc, I see people using powder so I guess it's ok with the heat but when I spoke to a local company they said they wouldn't recommend it especially that close to an exhaust?

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On a completely separate note, when painting up bits of tinware, fan etc, I see people using powder so I guess it's ok with the heat but when I spoke to a local company they said they wouldn't recommend it especially that close to an exhaust?

Works alright on a Beetle :twocents:

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Finally got the pulley off - didn't really need the bearing puller in the end as it was the 10-off cap head screws - think I may have bent the pulley slightly in the process though!

 

Soaked them in WD40 for a week, then they eventually came off without too much of a fight.

 

Hopefully get time to modify the a/c bracket over the weekend.

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You still have to take the hub of the pulley off the crank to fit the RS one though??

 

Damn, I was hoping it would simply attach like for like - I'll have to look at that.

 

On the plus side - after all the grief getting it off, bracket was an easy mod - see before & after...

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Thinking on, this is a standard 964 engine, yes? If so then I think that pulley is also known as the 'harmonic balancer', i.e. the counterweight fitted at the factory to help prevent the crank from snapping due to the (alleged) inherent design fault? Plenty of info on this on Pelican, do your homework before opting for the RS pulley set up.

 

Nice job with the surgery on the a/c compressor mount BTW.

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Nice job with the surgery on the a/c compressor mount BTW.

 

Out of interest, how much £££ do Porsche relieve you of for the non AC mount casting?

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Don't suppose anyone has any pictures of the rear (flywheel end) of their 3.6 engines with tinware mods before they put it back into the car have they - I'm in 3 minds which direction to take!

 

This is the only pic I've got & some of it has seen better days!!

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Little bit of progress been made, I butchered the cast power steering bracket as I only needed to use it as a block-off.

 

Remaining 'bung' was then milled flat, turned the o/dia to tidy it up & knocked up a cap to block it off.

 

Pictures show before, during & after.

 

Anyone know if I should be putting some kind of gasket of o-ring between them or should the metal to metal contact be ok?

post-3228-1270217361_thumb.jpg

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Little bit of progress been made, I butchered the cast power steering bracket as I only needed to use it as a block-off.

 

Remaining 'bung' was then milled flat, turned the o/dia to tidy it up & knocked up a cap to block it off.

 

Pictures show before, during & after.

 

Anyone know if I should be putting some kind of gasket of o-ring between them or should the metal to metal contact be ok?

 

Good progress, you'll be up and running in no time.

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Rocker covers looking better after powder coating, new gaskets fitted.

 

While the alternator & housing was removed - looking under the top cover there was quite a lot of crud and sludge so decided to remove intake assembly and cover to clean t all up. It was going to need re-seating anyway as there was quite a few gaps between the intakes and rubber sleeves but I'm hoping this is as 'naked' as the engine is going to get!

 

Intakes were securely sealed with clean rags & gaffer tape after last photo to stop anything getting in!

 

What do people use to clean up between the cooling fins? Up until now I've just been scraping it off & wiping clean with a degreaser - is it best to use a wire brush or similar attachment on a drill or is this too aggresive?

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Bit of elbow grease & a few hours in the sunshine - starting to look better :)

 

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Hoping to start getting thing back together this weekend.

 

When I was removing the rubber sleeves from the intakes I knoticed here was a bit of crusty stuff there possibly dryed old sealant?

 

Anybody know if you are supposed to put some sort of sealant or grease round the joins when reassembling or is it just a dry rubber to metal contact?

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