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Thought I would post a picture of my car at the ring on the 23rd May we also visited Spa to watch the old time classic racing and the recent posts from the Spa trip boys looked fantastic.

I would say this will be the last time I will drive the ring as it was so busy and it is getting too dangerous and also expensive at 22 euro a lap. Would love to tag along on next years Spa trip.

 

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Alan

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I would say this will be the last time I will drive the ring as it was so busy and it is getting too dangerous and also expensive at 22 euro a lap.

 

post-264-1276119782_thumb.jpg

 

Alan

 

Don't tell me that, i'm off there in September!

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Thought I would post a picture of my car at the ring on the 23rd May we also visited Spa to watch the old time classic racing and the recent posts from the Spa trip boys looked fantastic.

I would say this will be the last time I will drive the ring as it was so busy and it is getting too dangerous and also expensive at 22 euro a lap. Would love to tag along on next years Spa trip.

 

post-264-1276119782_thumb.jpg

 

Alan

 

I feel the same about the Ring. Last time there, a bunch of total maniacs were allowed on in Clio Cups on slicks on what was supposed to be a closed day. They hit four people's cars and luckily just clipped mine, overtaking on the wrong side, as I was moving over to allow one to overtake on the correct side.

 

I am doing Coupe des Alpes next week in my Tuthill Carrera 3.0 RS and just hope that the group of Belgian based Italians in their 2.7 lightweights are either not there or behave themselves this year, after being given a serious talking to by the organisers last year. The were doing speeds of over 125 MPH on narrow roads and overtaking on blind bends. These are not closed roads and a family of 8 could be coming the other way in their Espace. It would only take one horrendous accident caused by a speeding idiot rally driver, for classic rallying on open roads to be banned for good in France.

 

Wilson

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aren't there quieter times of the day to go? or is it packed all day these days? i haven't been for 5 years now but would love to go again some day.

 

The tourstfarten days are the public days and this year the traffic was horrendous. Car park at the ring and overflow car park full with cars queing to get onto the circuit constantly. There seems to be an increase in people buying the most powerfull shed they can afford to write off and driving it like they stole it.

Not the place for me anymore iam afraid.

 

Wilson . Your car looks fantastic have you got any more photo's to post.

 

Regards

 

Alan

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The tourstfarten days are the public days and this year the traffic was horrendous. Car park at the ring and overflow car park full with cars queing to get onto the circuit constantly. There seems to be an increase in people buying the most powerfull shed they can afford to write off and driving it like they stole it.

Not the place for me anymore iam afraid.

Weekends are nearly always bad these days. Much better doing TF during the week.

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its a shame to hear bad things about the Ring these days as ive always wanted to do a day or two there. Its getting to the point where it wouldnt be worth the risk, if not already there. Aren't there more organised days by RSR etc with limited numbers of like minded drivers for a sensible price, like our recent Spa day?

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The problem with the Ring, seems to be that even when you think you are going on a closed day, you may not be. The day I went on was supposed to be Wiesmanns and invited guests of Ron Simmons only (www.rsrnurburg.com). We were there getting some practice in for the Old Timers Grand Prix Marathon in a Supercharged Elise (horrible little car) to get some miles in and the actual car being used for the Marathon, a ex-works 904/6. All sorts of other people seem to turn up and get on. Most of them were OK but the bunch with the Clios were still of an age, where they assumed they were immortal and I guess the cars belonged to someone else.

 

Alan - for you - another photo of the Carrera today - covered in pollen, as it has been blowing a Levanter gale in the south of France for the last two days. It is painted in Jaguar E-Type Dark Green Opalescent. I don't like Fuchs wheels in anything over 7" wide for rallying, as I had a 9" one collapse on me about 30 years ago. That can spoil your whole day!

 

Wilson

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Wilson - welcome to the board. The RS looks fantastic on those wheels - I assume they are 15s? The smaller size does a good visual trick of lowering the car while it looks like you have plenty of useful suspension travel. I would have sworn the car is blue from the pics if you hadn't said green.

 

RB

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Wilson - welcome to the board. The RS looks fantastic on those wheels - I assume they are 15s? The smaller size does a good visual trick of lowering the car while it looks like you have plenty of useful suspension travel. I would have sworn the car is blue from the pics if you hadn't said green.

 

RB

 

Richard,

 

Yes they are 15" - 8's in front and 9's at the back, both with 225/50 -15 Yokohama A0022 tyres. I went for 15" mainly for choice of tyres. I can get the right widths in Michelin TB15's and Avon CR6ZZ's for rallies with specified tyres. In 16", the choice is more limited. I am using the standard torsion bars but lowered a bit. I am using the Tuthill CTX Citroen WRC shock absorber inserts, which are fantastic. The ride is better than my 997 Turbo but the control absolutely ironclad. I was worried that the discs would be too small but with the 6 pot callipers in front and 4 at the back, they seem fine. I have an adjustable front/rear balance twin M/C pedal box.

 

Wilson

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Richard,

 

Yes they are 15" - 8's in front and 9's at the back, both with 225/50 -15 Yokohama A0022 tyres. I went for 15" mainly for choice of tyres. I can get the right widths in Michelin TB15's and Avon CR6ZZ's for rallies with specified tyres. In 16", the choice is more limited. I am using the standard torsion bars but lowered a bit. I am using the Tuthill CTX Citroen WRC shock absorber inserts, which are fantastic. The ride is better than my 997 Turbo but the control absolutely ironclad. I was worried that the discs would be too small but with the 6 pot callipers in front and 4 at the back, they seem fine. I have an adjustable front/rear balance twin M/C pedal box.

 

Wilson

 

Welcome, love your car and the fact you are not afraid to use it.

 

You've just answered a question I was about to ask, I've been trying to decide on the best choice of wheel size 15" or 16" and I was coming to the conclusion that my choice would swing to which size gives me the best choice of tyres.

 

Wheels will be far more of a problem than tyres for me but I before committing I wanted to make sure I end up with a size that gives me plenty of tyre choice for 8", 9" or 10" wide wheels.

 

Are you using Tuthill calipers?

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Welcome, love your car and the fact you are not afraid to use it.

 

You've just answered a question I was about to ask, I've been trying to decide on the best choice of wheel size 15" or 16" and I was coming to the conclusion that my choice would swing to which size gives me the best choice of tyres.

 

Wheels will be far more of a problem than tyres for me but I before committing I wanted to make sure I end up with a size that gives me plenty of tyre choice for 8", 9" or 10" wide wheels.

 

Are you using Tuthill calipers?

 

Yes I am using Tuthill Calipers. With the twin m/c set up the brakes are very good but pretty heavy. As I am all metal joints on my right leg, what with having it savaged some years ago by a Lotus 62 and then arthritis, I think I may consider putting on 2 servos over the winter. When I wear out the front tyres, I might consider going slightly narrower than the 225's I have at present. When you are pushing on on Alpine events, with lots of hairpin bends or long French hill climbs, which is mostly what I do, the steering weight becomes an issue. I have a Sparco 350mm suede covered wheel which helps. I find that 9" wheels at the back are enough. I have 260 BHP, according to Bob Watson's dyno but I also have a Kazz LSD. This is a very aggressive LSD and a tip which I got from Kazz last week, was at some point to reverse the locking cam, so that it is 50% locking on drive and 100% on over-run rather than the standard way, the reverse of the foregoing, which is what I have it at currently.

 

Wilson

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Wilson, beautiful beautiful car. I too am delighted to see you use it as it was meant to be used. Simply Gorgeous. :signs118:

+1 - great looking car!

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Here's another pic of Wilson's.

 

Al, we are probably going to try and do a closed Nurburgring track day next year as part of our events list. Will keep you in the loop.

Wilson.jpg

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Richard,

 

Yes they are 15" - 8's in front and 9's at the back, both with 225/50 -15 Yokohama A0022 tyres. I went for 15" mainly for choice of tyres. I can get the right widths in Michelin TB15's and Avon CR6ZZ's for rallies with specified tyres. In 16", the choice is more limited. I am using the standard torsion bars but lowered a bit. I am using the Tuthill CTX Citroen WRC shock absorber inserts, which are fantastic. The ride is better than my 997 Turbo but the control absolutely ironclad. I was worried that the discs would be too small but with the 6 pot callipers in front and 4 at the back, they seem fine. I have an adjustable front/rear balance twin M/C pedal box.

 

Wilson

 

whoa! how do you get 6 pot callipers behind those wheels? I thought that it will be to big? lovely car!

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Fred - they are about the same size as 930 calipers which also fit under 15s, they just have 6 small pistons.

 

Wilson - I didn't see those size rims on the minilite website so assumed they were replicas. Its another good option for people building hotrods - looks great.

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Fred - they are about the same size as 930 calipers which also fit under 15s, they just have 6 small pistons.

 

Wilson - I didn't see those size rims on the minilite website so assumed they were replicas. Its another good option for people building hotrods - looks great.

 

Richard,

 

MA 1580B - 8" and MA 1590B - 9". They also do a 10" MA 1510B. It is very important to get the offset correct when you order. There are various options dependant upon what suspension, bolted in spacers and brakes you have fitted. Probably a measurement best left to an expert, so you are not out of pocket when he gets it wrong.

 

Wilson

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Any thoughts guys on what the current thinking is on at what oil temperature you should start thinking of backing off a bit (dropping revs). The last competition 911 I had was in the 1970's, a 2.6 Kremer, which had twin fan cooled front units. At that time I was using Shell Rotella 30 oil and the recommended max temperature was about 110º - 115ºC. I am guessing it is a bit higher now, with synthetic oils like the 5W40 Castrol I use. I am hoping to get away with the trombone oil cooler, although I have had the car built with the provision for a front valance cooler if required. The issue is that unlike the very robust trombones, they can suffer stone damage or failure if you damage the front valance.

 

Wilson

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Conventional wisdom is that the red bar on the oil temp gauge is "too damn hot". The red bar is 250 fahrenheit. 115C is about 240F and 110C is about 230F. Most of the conventional wisdom says that you don't want to run much above the next white bar down on the gauge which is IIRC 200F, so I would say that your 110C-115C is about the max you want to see on a sustained basis. If you are making 260hp then you are making 3.6 type numbers and heat. I understand the front mount cooler vulnerability concerns, so have you considered a 3.2 fender cooler, which is much more efficient than the trombone? Copes fine with my 260hp 3.2 motor and Jev is running his nearly 300hp 3.6 thru that cooler as did ACE with his v-ram motor. I think that 3.6s running just the Carrera cooler are totally on the margin as they have no engine cooler, but it seems to work ok.

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Conventional wisdom is that the red bar on the oil temp gauge is "too damn hot". The red bar is 250 fahrenheit. 115C is about 240F and 110C is about 230F. Most of the conventional wisdom says that you don't want to run much above the next white bar down on the gauge which is IIRC 200F, so I would say that your 110C-115C is about the max you want to see on a sustained basis. If you are making 260hp then you are making 3.6 type numbers and heat. I understand the front mount cooler vulnerability concerns, so have you considered a 3.2 fender cooler, which is much more efficient than the trombone? Copes fine with my 260hp 3.2 motor and Jev is running his nearly 300hp 3.6 thru that cooler as did ACE with his v-ram motor. I think that 3.6s running just the Carrera cooler are totally on the margin as they have no engine cooler, but it seems to work ok.

 

Richard,

 

I am not too sure how accurate the gauge/sender are, since they are both the original US 1977 items. The thermostat to the front cooler does not open until the gauge is reading about 210ºF. My temperature gauge has no red line. Not sure what you mean by fender cooler. Is this a radiator type cooler? My old Kremer had a small radiator in each side well in the boot, in front of the front wheels. These were shrouded and had a small thermostatically controlled fan each, pulling in cold air from front bumper vents and the hot air exhausted into the low pressure area inboard of the front wheels. On the current car, I have my front to rear oil pipes exposed on the RH sill for extra cooling, which I am told actually provide more of the cooling than the trombone itself. At 200ºF, my thermostat would not even be open, so I am sure I can run hotter than that. My DMS 997 Turbo quite often shows 95º-105ºC when I am on Autobahns in hot weather.

 

Wilson

Edited by Wilson Laidlaw
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Thermostat opens at ~100C/210F and I said you don't want to be much hotter than 110-115C because that is approaching the 250F mark that everyone says is too hot. If it will run at 100C then even better but I don't think you have that luxury. Basically the cooler the oil the better and in an imaginary world, if you could keep the oil at 100C and the thermostat never opened then that would be fantastic.

 

The Carrera fender cooler is a radiator cooler in the front fender that would replace your trombone. Short of the later 964 and 993 fender coolers that need different space and ducting, you cannot get a better fender mounted cooler. Agreed, the sill pipes do more cooling than the trombone as they are longer and hence have more surface area.

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