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BB’s ex RB 3.2 Hot Rod


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  • 2 months later...
On 08/06/2021 at 09:39, Busybee said:

So, fresh rubber on today. Couple of guys have said wear indicating I need to look at setup. These are the rears. Oh and a shot of daisy out in the sun scrubbing them in 

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Always love a bit of Daisy update.

If you are wearing the inner edges which is what it looks like - then that is entirely expected.  One of the reasons Daisy handles so well is because she has more static -ve camber than 99% of similar vintage 911s.  To make old 911s handle you need static -ve camber because of the rear trailing arm design.  You have to stiffen and limit travel to minimise camber and toe change under load in the rear.  Hence you start with more static -ve.  So, accept the wear (or drive harder).  Seriously though, I used to get inner wear as well because of the long motorways to get to the fun roads.  

The *right* alignment for Daisy is to get the max possible front negative camber and then size the rear off those numbers.  About a degree more -ve if you want a conservative setting and about 0.5 degree more -ve if you want a faster setting that is more tail led on the limit.  Other settings are max front castor, a tiny bit of front toe in (or zero if you like it really pointy) and std rear toe in.  It certainly wouldn't hurt to have an alignment done, but if it was me, I wouldn't go back to something like stock settings.  That would be a waste of potential.  I can't remember, you might have already gone to CoG at some point anyway?

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17 hours ago, Richard Bernau said:

Always love a bit of Daisy update.

If you are wearing the inner edges which is what it looks like - then that is entirely expected.  One of the reasons Daisy handles so well is because she has more static -ve camber than 99% of similar vintage 911s.  To make old 911s handle you need static -ve camber because of the rear trailing arm design.  You have to stiffen and limit travel to minimise camber and toe change under load in the rear.  Hence you start with more static -ve.  So, accept the wear (or drive harder).  Seriously though, I used to get inner wear as well because of the long motorways to get to the fun roads.  

The *right* alignment for Daisy is to get the max possible front negative camber and then size the rear off those numbers.  About a degree more -ve if you want a conservative setting and about 0.5 degree more -ve if you want a faster setting that is more tail led on the limit.  Other settings are max front castor, a tiny bit of front toe in (or zero if you like it really pointy) and std rear toe in.  It certainly wouldn't hurt to have an alignment done, but if it was me, I wouldn't go back to something like stock settings.  That would be a waste of potential.  I can't remember, you might have already gone to CoG at some point anyway?

Hi Rich. Good to hear from you. Hope you’re keeping well. I occasionally pop on here these days but seldom post. Feels like the fizz has fizzed off (or my posts have annoyed more than helped a great many - cest la vie).

You'll be pleased to know Daisy is still in regular use. In fact, went to spectate at shelsley Walsh last weekend in her and on a track day at castle Combe with her tomorrow. I truly love that car. There maybe faster, more unique, more valuable cars but I care not a jot. She fits me and I adore her. 

Many thanks for the suspension set up notes. I’d gathered as much. Not visited CG. Took her to my local motorsport garage and they said they couldn’t set her up any better than she is currently sat. Despite me trying to spend some money with them. 👌 And in all honesty, we both know how well she handles. 

New conti’s on 225 and 205. They seem fine. Looking for a set of trackday wheels and tyres for her as I’m sure and inch more width and sticky rubber can only help. Tomorrow on the conti's but it’ll be fine.

Winter project. Pop that 3.8 in and see what that’s like 🙈🎉

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Fun weekend prepping Daisy for Oulton RS later this week. Fresh oil (Fuchs Titan Pro 5w40), Mahle filter, new boots (Kumho V70A's in 245/45 and 225/45), lubed up all the grease nipples and checked all the suspension and brake bolts. Took her out for a 40 mile check run and topped up the oil. Loving the new rubber. Look cool and stick like you know what to a blanket. Quick polish up and sanded and painted the front splitter panels as they were looking a bit grubby.

Anything else to do to get ready for the trackday? 

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WhatsApp Image 2022-02-28 at 9.01.24 AM.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2022-02-27 at 4.45.36 PM.jpeg

Edited by Busybee
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Brake fluid, pads, brake lines, gear oil, wheel bearings, db level check - they always test cars at Oulton PK. 

Does your screen clear well. If its cold or raining, it well get steamy in the car.

Get comfy in your seat with all your driving gear on - adjust seat and straps to suit your helmet, clothing & footwear etc. 

Check organisers requirements - ID required, long sleeves, gloves, does your helmet need to be a certain standard etc.

Pack tools, oils and spares - are you allowed fuel containers in the paddock?

Liquid (plenty of it)  and snacks to keep yourself going all day.

Map of circuit - study the night before you drive.

V70's are a great tyre. with a hard rear, medium front you can play out all day and just about stay legal for the drive home.

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Your first trackday ?

They can be quite strict at Oulton. They used to use a two-man crew for the noise test (one guy at the back and one with his head through the driver's window) so harder to 'fudge' the rpm used :lol:

Is the noise limit 101db ?:o

🤔

Edited by GaryH
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Thanks Chaps. Done a few TD's in Daisy now. I've been noise tested twice at Castle Combe and passed (how I've no idea). She's flipping loud. 105db limit at the RS Day. 

All good tips. Brake fluid, lines etc are all good. Bearings good and smooth. Front pads have tons of meat on them and dics look good all round. Rear pads need replacing soon. C12's so I've no idea what pads go in there.

V70's are medium compounds all round so fingers crossed. 

 

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14 hours ago, GaryH said:

Drop the tyre pressures too. I used to aim for 30/32 hot pressure but they'll be a lot hotter than that if you don't drop them before you go on track.

Will do. I normally run the factory pressures of 29/36psi but always drop them a few psi on track. Was talking to jevvy and he said try lower pressures too. 29/31 was his advice 

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19 hours ago, GaryH said:

Your first trackday ?

They can be quite strict at Oulton. They used to use a two-man crew for the noise test (one guy at the back and one with his head through the driver's window) so harder to 'fudge' the rpm used :lol:

Is the noise limit 101db ?:o

🤔

Oulton RS day is fine - I've been through it with a GT3 with a back box blowing slightly. And the IB which is noisier. IIRC it's a 103dB day. Our Mazda race car recorded 94dB static at Oulton last year yet is the only car I've had to ever trip to microphone at Donington (98dB drive by) so make of that what you will.

I've also had my IB through a 98dB day at Castle Coombe, the tester there I believe accounted for the fact it was a rear engined car because I think a proper reading on the IB is around 101-102.

Chris

Edited by reddevil
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  • 3 months later...

Trackday at Castle Combe last Thursday. Car was running well. Then it slipped the clutch a couple of times and then could feel some wobbling under foot when the clutch was depressed. Intermittent but I called it a day and nursed daisy home along the motorway. 
Spoke to a chap from Parr before leaving and he said it sounds like the release bearing had pulled it’s tangs off a bit. 
So a new clutch for Daisy. Reading back, sounds like it’s done circa 40k miles so not so bad. 
Question is what clutch to go for. @Richard Bernau mentioned it was a 930S clutch. Is there something heavier duty? 
 

Do I take this opportunity to transplant that 3.8 finally? 🫣🤔

Edited by Busybee
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On 26/06/2022 at 09:16, Busybee said:

Do I take this opportunity to transplant that 3.8 finally? 🫣🤔

Ha, thats a bit of mission creep! clutch needs work so put a 3.8 lump in :D like your style!

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  • 1 month later...

Guess I am not on here as often as I once was...

Yes, its a 930S clutch.  Should have ample clamping force for any nat aspirated engine given the tq of a 930S.  Any stronger clutch is going to be even heavier and more on/off.  Clutch and LW pressure plate came from Patrick Motorsport in the US and this was the recommendation from them.  Install was by Steve Winter at JAZ.

Steve uses 996TT Sachs clutches (can modify them) as a G50 upgrade now - I had one in the turbo.  That may be another option.  I think any hydraulic G50 variant has a high chance of working.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 02/08/2022 at 00:11, Richard Bernau said:

Guess I am not on here as often as I once was...

Yes, its a 930S clutch.  Should have ample clamping force for any nat aspirated engine given the tq of a 930S.  Any stronger clutch is going to be even heavier and more on/off.  Clutch and LW pressure plate came from Patrick Motorsport in the US and this was the recommendation from them.  Install was by Steve Winter at JAZ.

Steve uses 996TT Sachs clutches (can modify them) as a G50 upgrade now - I had one in the turbo.  That may be another option.  I think any hydraulic G50 variant has a high chance of working.

Thank you. Is this the one I need Richard? https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit-sachs/performance-clutch-porsche-911-33turbo-93011691101-3000950004-s

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