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Dr_Danger

Changing tie rods

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I was attempting to change my tie-rods today. And after spending all day could not remove the tierod ends from the control arm :cry: I haven't got a special wedge tool but I have tried almost everything and it didn't move an inch, I think I have started to bend the arm :(

I have to drive the car to a meeting on monday and as it looks just now it's not going to happen. Anyone can give me any advice apart from the usual "gentle persuasion"?

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A short sharp blow to the side should do it. Don't bang on the threaded part poking through or on the arm coming from the rack. I will post a pic of where to hit it. Dont go over mad with the hammer.

 

strut1162063470.jpg

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Anyone can give me any advice apart from the usual "gentle persuasion"?

 

Get hold of a tool like this, it will do the trick:

 

HazetKuleleddavdrager.jpg

 

Buy, steal or borrow.

 

/Peter

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You just need to unlock the taper so use Adrian's method first, that does it 99.9% of the time. BFH on that a few times and it should jump out. Good solid thwacks. Aimed well!

 

You can get one of the balljoint splitters as shown by Dr. Bull on eBay, that will do it if the BFH fails you.

 

This is the furthest thing from disaster you have ever posted! :D

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I got mine apart with a cheapo ball joint seperator from halfords (open sunday)- was like £15

 

Good luck

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I hate those dumbass fork things, you can never get them in *quite* the right place. A good smack on the outside of the stub axle always does it for me.

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Those forks are OK if your changing the end but otherwise they rip the seals if its tight. The stubby little versions can fly off if you miss hit them too

The other type I normaly give up with unless you've got an impact gun, even then they're not great.

Just be thankfull its not a rusty old Vauxhall where you end up taking the fecking steering arm and strut out as one just to do a wheel bearing

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sounds like you need some heat , get a blow torch and put some heat on the outside of the control arm about where 911 mot's arrow points and give the top of the joint a good hit, if you have got a heavy second hammer try and rest the face of this on the underside of the control arm when you hit the joint as this will minimise any bending/bouncing of the arm.

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Thanks for all the advice guys. Will give it another go today. I know it might not be a total disaster, I was just so disheartened yesterday that i couldn't do anything. I have tried hitting it everywhere from every angle, tried heating it up and levering it with a crowbar. It didn't move. Lets see if my luck changes today. Otherwise I might have to turn up at a meeting 200 miles away in a Two Stroke Saab :)

 

P.S. It makes it more difficult as up here in highlands nothing is open during the weekend and nobody works :(

Edited by Dr_Danger

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Hurray I have managed to complete the job. Unfortunately not without an accident, managed to jam my hand between the steering rack and the body putting on those b*****d little springs that hold the rubber boot.

Now my right hand is nice and swollen, so typing with one hand today :)

 

Oh yes the main thing, I managed to get hold of the "fork tool" it was crap, didn't help at all and I managed to bend it, however the magnificent trick suggested by Adrian worked a treat. Had to give it lots of heat and one hard well aimed whack! Surprisingly the part I thought would be the hardest to undo, tierod to rack was very easy. Will post some pictures later on.

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Here are a few pictures. Turbo tie rods and bump steer kit to go in . I have only done one side so far, another one next weekend. However I have noticed a few other things under there.

 

HURRAY!

 

tierod2.jpg

 

tierods.jpg

 

 

IS THIS AS LOW AS IT CAN GO?

 

rideheight.jpg

 

 

VERY RUSTY FUEL PIPE :( It feels quite solid though, should I attempt to replace it?

 

fuelpipe.jpg

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Good work, pleased you managed to crack it.

 

Yes your front adjuster is right at the end of its travel - If it were me I will un-do the adjuster, pull the cap, rotate it 1 spline(away from the stop) on the torsion bar then replace the adjuster to it sits the same distance away from the stop. This should mean that the adjuster hits the stop more squarely and also gives you easy adjustment in both directions - Ideally you want the adjuster bolt half way through the end cap.

 

Rusty fuel pipe looks pretty standard for all cars I have looked at, not sure what to advise here as you could damage the tank trying to un-do it but if you leave it one day it will leak just to spite you - your call mate.

 

Might want to pull the dust shields while you are in there - helps with cooling and thus far I havent noticed any downsides to pulling mine.

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Good work, pleased you managed to crack it.

 

Yes your front adjuster is right at the end of its travel - If it were me I will un-do the adjuster, pull the cap, rotate it 1 spline(away from the stop) on the torsion bar then replace the adjuster to it sits the same distance away from the stop. This should mean that the adjuster hits the stop more squarely and also gives you easy adjustment in both directions - Ideally you want the adjuster bolt half way through the end cap.

 

Rusty fuel pipe looks pretty standard for all cars I have looked at, not sure what to advise here as you could damage the tank trying to un-do it but if you leave it one day it will leak just to spite you - your call mate.

 

Might want to pull the dust shields while you are in there - helps with cooling and thus far I havent noticed any downsides to pulling mine.

 

Good advice jevvy! Now how do I take off the dust cap? Just good old whack? I'm a bit concerned that I get the aligment messed up badly doing this, I guess i'll have to redo it after changing the tie rods and fitting the bump steer anyway?

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which dust cap do you mean? I was talking about the dust shields behind the brake discs - I think you can get these off with just 3 bolts round the backside.

 

The end cap that the adjuster goes through 'should' come off easily once you have pulled the adjuster(thats all that holds it on) and as long as you dont change the height the car is jacked to and return the adjuster to be the same distance from the stop it wont affect ride height very much at all.

 

Changing tie rods and bump steer stuff will only affect toe adjustment which can be easily corected at a local tyre place for £20 ish.

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Managed to do the other side today. Also installed a bump steer kit from Weltermeister which was very easy and trouble free to install. After adjusting my toe-in by eye I went for a test drive and all was well however I've noticed that about every half turn of the wheel there is a knocking noise coming from the steering column. I have had a look through the access hatch in the boot and also under the car and could not see anything that could prevent from the rack and linkages turning freely. After 40 miles the noise seemed to have quitened down but it's still there. Should I just leave it and see if it's just needs settling in it's place and will improve with use. Any ideas anyone?

 

tierod3.jpg

 

spacers.jpg

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Did you loosen the steering column u-joint (in boot hatch) before you put the rack spacers in? Sounds as if somethings binding up somewhere.

 

Yes I did. I spent the rest of the evening trying to trace where its coming from and could not see anything :(

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Nice work Danger - got there in the end.

 

I think the problem you are having is because the spacers actually push the whole rack up by a few mm which causes the 2 universal joints to have to work in a slightly different plane to what they have done for the past 20+ years. This causes them to tell you about it.

 

The other think that might have happened is that you bolted it all down in a slightly uncomfortable postition(the car not you you nutter) and the UJ's are having to do too much work to transfer the rotation smoothly.

 

I had the same and pulled it all to its again to loosen up the universal joints and also align all the pieces as best I could before tightening them down.

 

then again you could just drive it and im sure you will knock the corners off the UJ's in no time!

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Loosen the u-joint in the hood compartment (aka smugglers box) and take it for a spin around the block (be careful though!) this will let everything settle down nicely. Don't forget to nip it up nice and tight once you get home ;)

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I think Ace's plan may well work but I'm with Jevvy. I would also loosen it all back up and then tighten it sort of half way and settle it all by hand and eye. Best way is to have the whole front up off the ground, wheels off, and work the steering right to left for a few full movements to settle it down. Where did you guys buy your bump steer washers from, need a pair myself.

 

Reset the tracking properly when you are all done Doctor, though I'm nearly sure you already said you are doing that...

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I had a knock in my steering that I just could not find.

 

Hard cornering would give a clunk noise and you could feel the steering 'give' ever so slightly. Would do it left or right. I checked everything in sight - ball joints u/j's, column bushes, nut holding the wheel, everything.

Eventually I found that I could reproduce the noise by sitting in the car (stationary) and turning the steering to full lock and push a bit harder and it would clonk and the s/wheel jink round a bit. To get it to knock again I had to rotate steering to full lock the opposite way and again you'd feel a knock. Dropped the track rods out of the hubs and tried again - still the knock.

So I thought righto time for a new rack. New rack arrived and it looked like it had been reconditioned by a blind one armed monkey. The splines were fuched and the bushes were half hanging out so I rejected it and waited 4 days for another. Looked much better so I put it on the car. Guess what? Still fuching knocking. Spent the next 2 hours messing about with the u/j's and stuff trying to figure it out. Exasperated I took the rack out, put it in a vice and applied torque to the input shaft flange and it knocked! The nut holding the flange on was loose. Not slack loose but I could see the flange move when you gave it some oophm Tightened it up and all has been good so far. You can do this through the smugglers box but its fiddly

 

pic of nut that was loose:

DSCF2059_RS1125159752.jpg

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