Airpump removal & heater backdate

[cavolonero]

Hi guys, I'm doing what needs to be done: airpump removal and heater backdate.

Am about halfway and was wondering if there is a trick to remove the bracket that the airpump attached to?

 

Before:

 

Halfway:

 

(for the keen eye: I also found! the left clip to re-attach my airbox strap in the bottom LHS of the engine bay)

[Phill]

My bracket just appears to be replaced with lots of washers and nuts.

[Jonny Hart]

From memory, the studs round the edge of the engine casing need replacing with shorter bolts. The one (s?) in the middle doesn't go anywhere so can be left out.

[cavolonero]

ah, what I meant was: the bracket doesn't come off the studs as there is something in the way....However I haven't taken the piping underneath the car off yet, will probably leave it there until I change the exhaust.

[Lesworth]

....However I haven't taken the piping underneath the car off yet, will probably leave it there until I change the exhaust.

Good plan. Better access and you'll need heat to get those bleeders out so may as well tackle that at the same time as the heat exchangers which'll likely need the same treament.

[Phill]

Good plan. Better access and you'll need heat to get those bleeders out so may as well tackle that at the same time as the heat exchangers which'll likely need the same treament.

 

+1 That's what I did. Bugger of a job to say the least.

[Baz]

I think I locked 2 nuts together on the bracket studs and wound them out then replkaced with short bolts. Air injectors will come out or cut the pipes and crimp the ends of pipe over. The thread into the the exhaust ports is 10mm fine either source some grub screws or make from bolts. Baz

[Phill]

I think I locked 2 nuts together on the bracket studs and wound them out then replkaced with short bolts. Air injectors will come out or cut the pipes and crimp the ends of pipe over. The thread into the the exhaust ports is 10mm fine either source some grub screws or make from bolts. Baz

 

And tapered don't forget.........

[Jonny Hart]

And tapered don't forget.........

 

 

I am about to tackle removal of air injectors in the next few weeks (when I fit my SSIs). If they don't budge, I was advised that they sometimes get blanked off using a ball bearing in the pipe somehow. Not sure of the exact details but can find out.

[GaryH]

And tapered don't forget.........

This ^^^^^^^ otherwise they'll blow out (two days day before you're due to go to BLM). Ask me how I know

[Leicestershire]

To remove the air injectors you will need to remove the heat exchangers.

Once you have the HE’s off squirt WD into the injection port and leave it overnight.

The job is much easier if you cut all the rusty air pipes off before you start to unscrew the injectors.

Warm the surrounding material with a hot air gun until it is just too hot to touch and the injectors will unscrew.

Type 911 sell the correct plugs for about £10 – it looks expensive for a small bag of grub screws but they are the right part for the job. Install them with a drop of stud lock and that’s it job done.

[burgundyben]

If you really get into bother getting one out, leave it in there and block it off with a blob of MIG.

 

Not an ideal repair, but better than breaking it off or damaging a head.

[Type911]

To remove the air injectors you will need to remove the heat exchangers.

Once you have the HE’s off squirt WD into the injection port and leave it overnight.

The job is much easier if you cut all the rusty air pipes off before you start to unscrew the injectors.

Warm the surrounding material with a hot air gun until it is just too hot to touch and the injectors will unscrew.

Type 911 sell the correct plugs for about £10 – it looks expensive for a small bag of grub screws but they are the right part for the job. Install them with a drop of stud lock and that’s it job done.

 

 

There are actually £18 a set! (our item# 795) Kin expensive for what they are but I have tried to find them cheaper and have come up with nowt! Not even Wurth could help

[Phill]

To remove the air injectors you will need to remove the heat exchangers.

Once you have the HE’s off squirt WD into the injection port and leave it overnight.

The job is much easier if you cut all the rusty air pipes off before you start to unscrew the injectors.

Warm the surrounding material with a hot air gun until it is just too hot to touch and the injectors will unscrew.

 

if life were only so simple.......

 

The last of my injectors spun in the hole, had to be drilled out. Then re-tapped the hole with a tapered bolt. No amount of plusgas, WD40, heat, cold or pretty pleases was going to get that puppy out.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again - this (with the HEs) was the worst job I've ever done, let alone on a car. Be prepared for the very worst.

[Leicestershire]

If it all goes wrong don’t bother trying to use a tapered hole.

Just drill & tap oversize, ‘damage’ the threads from the inside at the top, insert the plain grub screw with stud lock and ‘damage’ the threads behind it.

As it’s not a blind hole and you can access both sides it is an easy job without removing the head.

The key is in the heat. Too much heat and you end up with the threads galling and the hole strips. The aluminium heats and expands quickly and a hot air gun can apply more than enough heat. Any form of gas is just too much and unless extreme care is used will result in failure.