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Mark's 3.6 Varioram transplant

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I've wondered about that ally flexible ducting. I think the question is whether it will survive the vibrations etc that it will have to endure without splitting. Maybe if you fix it in position quite carefully it will be ok but if it's allowed to flex too much then I think it may struggle.

 

It's got to be worth a go though. I don't remember my heat tube weighing anything like 3.5kg BTW.

Edited by ALEX P

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tbh I'm not a fan of the 'metal mickeys arm' heater tube :)

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I've wondered about that ally flexible ducting. I think the question is whether it will survive the vibrations etc that it will have to endure without splitting. Maybe if you fix it in position quite carefully it will be ok but if it's allowed to flex too much then I think it may struggle.

 

It's got to be worth a go though. I don't remember my heat tube weighing anything like 3.5kg BTW.

 

Even if not there are a number of other flexible heatproof hoses that could be used instead of metal mickeys arm

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I don't remember my heat tube weighing anything like 3.5kg BTW.

Was that because yours was the 964 thin metal pipe one?

 

 

tbh I'm not a fan of the 'metal mickeys arm' heater tube :)

Nothing wrong with Metal Mickey arms, with his age it shows they can last a long time!

 

I will fabricate the exhaust so there is room to revert to the standard heat pipe if the Metal Mickey solution fails, but avoiding an over engineered weight penalty and minimising cost is worth a try.

 

 

Mark

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I'm tired today (Picked kids up from ski trip at 2:30 this morning) - when I wrote my reply I thought Jevvy was calling the original one Metal Mickey (I'm just a bit too old for Metal Mickey) - I agree on replacing a heavy hunk of metal with something lighter - especially at the rear of the car

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Not done much to the engine in the last couple of weeks, but did spend some time on the oil cooling aspect.

 

Got hold of a radiator type front wing oil cooler from Perks. Gave the stone shield a quick refurbish and fitted a fan.

DSCN4553_zpsccb9b533.jpg

 

DSCN4554_zps7fb49552.jpg

 

DSCN4551_zps786192fb.jpg

 

DSCN4552_zpsab7015de.jpg

 

The whole thing weighs 3.5kg.

 

Surprised at how restrictive the matrix is to airflow. The fan belts out a good strong flow, but it is fairly week the other side of the matrix.

 

The plan is to fit this in the normal offside wing position with improved air flow/sealing and move my current brass tube cooler to the nearside wing. Need to get some M30x1.5 connectors and pipes/hose to plumb it all in.

 

Also got hold of a baffled alloy catch can which I will plumb in between the oil tank and the two openings on the inlet. It needs a bracket fabricating to mount it up in the top right hand corner of the engine bay.

DSCN4555_zps9ef088a4.jpg

 

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Surprised at how restrictive the matrix is to airflow. The fan belts out a good strong flow, but it is fairly week the other side of the matrix.

 

The plan is to fit this in the normal offside wing position with improved air flow/sealing and move my current brass tube cooler to the nearside wing. Need to get some M30x1.5 connectors and pipes/hose to plumb it all in.

 

Also got hold of a baffled alloy catch can which I will plumb in between the oil tank and the two openings on the inlet. It needs a bracket fabricating to mount it up in the top right hand corner of the engine bay.

 

 

 

It's just a gash design IMO, and as if it wasn't restrictive enough, it is then restricted further by tucking it up behing the headlight bowl!

 

I guess the twin oil cooler mod is something that you could do while the car is in its current state so it's a nice tick off the list to not have to worry about later on when you're ready to do the engine swap.

 

Hope you're sitting down when you get a price for the M30x1.5 fittings though! ££££££

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magnaflo all the way silver ,i was talking to higgoe about them today,they are bombproof and prpoer straight through

mine is quiet as standard on tickover but snarls at six thou plus and shoots flames

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Hope you're sitting down when you get a price for the M30x1.5 fittings though! ££££££

Sitting down, more like you need to be lying down in a darkened room. Over £60 for one angled female connector, mental :banghead:

 

What I might do is buy a pair of the short flexible hoses that connect to the oil cooler and disassemble them (i.e. carefully cut off the crimped coller). That way it works out just over £10 for a straight connection, plus the cost of getting them re-crimped.

 

Anyone got any old oil pipes/hoses I can experiment with?

 

Mark

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Hi Mark - post a pic of what you might need and will see if I've got anything suitable :)

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Hi Mark - post a pic of what you might need and will see if I've got anything suitable :)

Hi Ben, basically any solid IB line with an intact nut (i.e. one that undid without have to dremel and split it), or any flexible IB line with a nut either intact, or split.

 

I will post a wanted add up for those not reading this thread.

 

Mark

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Been doing some work on the exhaust...

 

 

DSCN4580_zps2b378488.jpg

 

Using 57mm OD pipe with a 45 degree bend to connect between the flanges and box, after trimming the box inlets back as far as they will go. Tucked the box up and back as far as I could while still retaining the option of using the alloy heat tube. I am using an SC/3.2 type engine hanger rather than the 993 one and still had to indent the back of the box a bit to clear the lower mounting bolt heads.

DSCN4576_zps98730cb1.jpg

 

The 57mm OD pipe (i.e. 54mm ID which is up from the std 50mm ID pipe on the Cat) will just fit inside the std 993 HE flange when it is "ovaled" to match. This matches the way the primary pipes are joined within the flange.

DSCN4579_zpsc21d3572.jpg

DSCN4578_zpseacdd17b.jpg

 

The inlet to the box is 63mm ID and so I will have to make a fillet to taper out the 57mm tube by 6mm diameter to fit and flow best.

 

More to come.

 

Mark

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Looking great Mark :)

Did you make these flanges, on the short sections, to match the 993 headers or buy them from somewhere?

DSCN4576_zps98730cb1.jpg

 

I'm sure you'll be tracking this car and engine combo - have you got any concerns about the Db levels with this 14" box? Or are you planning to go with baffles etc?

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Did you make these flanges, on the short sections, to match the 993 headers or buy them from somewhere?

 

I'm sure you'll be tracking this car and engine combo - have you got any concerns about the Db levels with this 14" box? Or are you planning to go with baffles etc?

I got the flanges in a mixed bag of exhaust bits I got with the engine.

 

Yes, I have concerns about the Db levels, but will just have to work out some baffles, or bolt-on cans, or ????

 

Mark

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Still working on the exhaust, will post up some more pictures soon.

 

In the mean time I have been collecting oil lines so that I can adapt them and make a set to feed the second cooler I will put in the nearside wing.

 

DSCN4566_zpsda55524b.jpg

A set off an SC, including loop, that are a bit battered and a good set off a 964.

 

I will take some measurements from the car and work out which combination of bends etc. will fit.

 

Also experimented with the pipe ends Alex donated. I wanted to see if I could separate the threaded fitting to reuse them. They are brazed onto the pipes and so its not possible to un-braze brass from brass. Instead I cut the pipes flush with the top of the nuts and drilled out the remains of the brazed in pipe with a 22mm drill.

DSCN4571_zpsff4239b2.jpg

 

 

Worked OK and it would be easy to braze it back on another pipe, so can be added to the option list.

 

 

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Back to the exhaust.

 

Been working on getting the 57mm OD collector pipe to fit into the 63mm Magnaflow inlets by adding some fillets externally and cutting away some of the pipe internally to increase the diameter. Followed by a lot of smoothing internally and externally

 

IMAG0620_zps09f7dccc.jpg

 

 

IMAG0618_zps9abbf5a7.jpg

 

 

IMAG0621_zpsa705d6a4.jpg

 

Getting there

IMAG0617_zpseb89d301.jpg

 

Trial fit, just pushed into the Magnaflow.

DSCN4586_zpscf1a0a4e.jpg

 

DSCN4583_zpsd901d09d.jpg

 

Also added a bung for the oxygen sensor.

DSCN4585_zps67c86bd7.jpg

 

Next step is to make a support bracket, check alignment and weld the pipes in. I will probably leave the outlet pipes until the engine is in the car to make sure of best fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DSCN4576_zps98730cb1.jpg

 

The 57mm OD pipe (i.e. 54mm ID which is up from the std 50mm ID pipe on the Cat) will just fit inside the std 993 HE flange when it is "ovaled" to match. This matches the way the primary pipes are joined within the flange.

DSCN4579_zpsc21d3572.jpg

 

 

Hi Mark,

 

Have you got a photo showing the other side of the flange on your two side pieces that mate to the h/e?

 

I was just wondering if the pipe going through the flange was flush with the mating face or protruding.

 

Also, I know you've been busy with your gearbox but have you put much more thought into your heat pipe - Are you going with the metal mickey solution or the heavy 993 heat pipe?

 

Cheers.

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Have you got a photo showing the other side of the flange on your two side pieces that mate to the h/e?

 

I was just wondering if the pipe going through the flange was flush with the mating face or protruding.

 

Also, I know you've been busy with your gearbox but have you put much more thought into your heat pipe - Are you going with the metal mickey solution or the heavy 993 heat pipe?

Hi ALex,

 

No photo to hand, but the pipe into the flange is flush with the flange on the matting side. I will see if I can take a picture next time I am in the garage.

 

I am still toying with the heat-pipe set up. It will depend on the final configuration of the rear engine tin. When my 3,2 was out I took a FG mould of the rear tin and so may go for a FG copy of the 3.2 tin, or a hybrid between the 993 and 3.2 tin. If the 993 tin is involved I will use at least part of the ally heat pie to save making a flange/T-piece to connect the air feed hoses. When the weather is a bit warmer and dryer so I can work outside I am going to try reducing the weight of the ally heat pipe chemically, by immersing it in sodium hydroxide drain cleaner. So my direction will also depend on the results of this experiment.

 

I will at least use the "metal micky" pipes to connect the heat-pipe to the heat exchangers instead of the expensive and heavy original rubber elbows.

 

Mark

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Hmm, some time since I posted anything on this thread.

 

As the 3.2 is currently out of the garage I could get at the engine and turn it over, which I have not managed to do for a while!

 

Put a bit of oil down each cylinder with the aid of a short length of plastic tube and feed the oil pump by pouring oil down the upright "S" pipe. Used the ratchet on the alternator nut and it turned over fine.

 

Had a visual check down the plug holes with the aid of a thin LED light and it all looked nice and shiny.

 

IMAG1786_zpsdgrslzkd.jpg

 

Checked the "to-do" list and finishing the engine tin and exhaust are really all that is left for the engine itself. Other job is to sort out the extra oil cooling on the car, so I will try and make a start on that soon.

 

Mark

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I wondered what happened to your 3.6 Mark , it was a good read until it just stopped ! I assumed that maybe you sold the engine .

 

Glad to see its still in happening at some point . :)

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Nice one Mark, I thought now you had your gearbox all sorted you had lost interest in the 3.6

 

Now hurry up and sling it in, only a weekends work for a man of your talents ;)

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