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Engine drop and major service time !


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You may remember my post from last year regarding my clutch woes http://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/20991-is-my-clutch-toast/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bshaft#entry235413

I stored my car up for the winter following the problem with plans to sort it in the spring - tonight I got my car moved into my workshop ready to start work

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Got it jacked up this evening and pulled the clutch slave off - the clutch fork feels to have lots of movement - almost feels loose
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
All set ready to disconnect and drop the lot out tomorrow - I will update with pics as I progress :D

 

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Gearbox cross shaft removal - threaded bar fitted to shaft ready for slide hammer but it just pulled out easily !

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Rear engine tinware is pretty tatty / rotten - any pointers as to where I can get these two parts either new or used ?
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Gearbox removed - clutch fork still attached to bearing
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Shiny parts on fork where it had been contacting pressure plate
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
And the cause of all the problem - cracked pressure diapragm !
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Clutch was strange - as soon as I released the clutch bolts it made a loud crack and popped back to its correct rest position - it was stuck too far out but strangely would still just work, clutch friction plate is in really good condition with very little wear - however got on the phone to my mate at G & S this afternoon and managed to get a complete new sachs kit for £ 540 inc vat so its not as painful as it could be
Now starting to strip engine down so I can get the tinware powder coated and refurb a few other parts - taken the injectors out ready to send off for service on monday
Lots of cleaning to do now !
Edited by alexb
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Nice work on the teardown alex, looks like you have plenty of space and tools at your disposal, I'm jealous :)

 

I'm still not entirely sure the crack was the cause of your problems, perhaps instead its more of a result of them?

 

You reported vibration before the car became unusable so maybe the fork had been moving too much causing vibrations at first then finally cracking the pressure plate. I guess what I'm saying double check everything and set the correct pedal stop after you have it all back together to prevent the same happening again :)

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"Nice work on the teardown alex, looks like you have plenty of space and tools at your disposal, I'm jealous"

 

+1 On that.Cracking garage.

 

Try Nick Moss at Early 911 has engine tinware for 3.2,I bought section near the flywheel sensors from him.

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Nice work on the teardown alex, looks like you have plenty of space and tools at your disposal, I'm jealous :)

 

I'm still not entirely sure the crack was the cause of your problems, perhaps instead its more of a result of them?

 

You reported vibration before the car became unusable so maybe the fork had been moving too much causing vibrations at first then finally cracking the pressure plate. I guess what I'm saying double check everything and set the correct pedal stop after you have it all back together to prevent the same happening again :)

 

Cheers - yup pedal stop was nowhere near the pedal when i checked after the clutch issue started, the pedal would not get anywhere near it before you felt contact between the clutch fork and pressure plate.

 

"Nice work on the teardown alex, looks like you have plenty of space and tools at your disposal, I'm jealous"

 

+1 On that.Cracking garage.

 

Try Nick Moss at Early 911 has engine tinware for 3.2,I bought section near the flywheel sensors from him.

Thanks - Ill give him a try :cool:

Edited by alexb
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  • 4 months later...

About time I updated this - Almost ready to start putting it back together and in at last

Engine was fitted to stand and then stripped to a long block

 


9513008529_7bf362e94a_z.jpg
Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Exhaust removed - plenty of oxy acetylene reqd !!

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
then cleaning the block began

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
I am replacing most of the seals on the block - cooler seals, thermostat etc as i had a few damp areas that i want to resolve
I also removed the very pitted fan and ventilator - had considered getting it phosphated by Early 911 but it was so deeply pitted and corroded that i decided to bead blast it , etch prime and gently stopper out any pinholes then 2k basecoat and lacquer - beng careful not to get too much thickness of paint on either item.

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
I also replaced the front tinware that was rotten - supplied by Nick @ early 911 - all of the engine tinware ( and a few bits of the rear suspension ) then went off to be powder coated

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
One item that was looking pretty suspect on the main fuel system was the curved fuel rail supply hose - my car had the main hose across the top of the engine done as part of my purchase as it was perished but this little one looked 'iffy' and when I started googling part numbers all I found was pics of 911s on fire ! so i looked for a replacement - this hose came from a supplier in the Usa and is made of a higher grade rubber than the stock replacement

9512979685_15bb287486_z.jpg
Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr

 

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Couple more pics -

 

Fan and ventilator after blasting - engine block cleaning started

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
I have also been refurbishing another set of Fuchs for my car - these were a scruffy set of 6 and 7s that I bought last year, I blasted and polished them before sending them down to Early 911 to have their rims machined and then re anodised - just got to detail them now
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
I have also had all the engine fasteners and fittings - injection rails etc re -plated in yellow passivate which now look like new, the injectors all went off to be serviced and have new seals and came back with a clean bill of health, Gearbox has had a damn good clean, new input shaft seal and new cross shaft and bearings.
I now have a stack of new parts ready to fit so can commence the re build and re fit when I return home from holiday :D
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well - back from Holiday, Detailed my Fuchs, waited a week for them to fully harden then got my new set of Toyos fitted

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Moved on to getting the engine block cleaned down and ready to service valve clearances and build back up
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Did a leak down test on the engine whilst checking it over - 10-15 % on most cylinders but unfortunately 20plus % on no 5 - you could feel the air blowing out of the exhaust port - tried turning the engine over and back to tdc on 5 again but it just wouldnt seal - plus all the exhaust ports except 5 were a nice even grey - 5 was black and oily so something was up - decided that it was time to pull the top end off !
Been looking at the top end kit from type 911 - the kit comes with endless replacement timing chains - how are these fitted without splitting the case ?
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Got the rhs heads and cam carrier off last night - carbon build up looks pretty even across all three heads, I will split the heads from the cam carrier tonight and remove the valves

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Current thought is that no 5 exhaust valve guide is worn hence the oily exhaust port as the combustion chamber seems pretty similar to the other two
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Been looking at the top end kit from type 911 - the kit comes with endless replacement timing chains - how are these fitted without splitting the case ?

 

 

 

You can't - would he swap for ones with a link?

 

If you have gone this far why not split the block and change all the shells/seals?

 

Cranc shells

Rod shells Inter shells

Rod nuts;bolts

chain guides

Timing chains

Oil return tubes

Complete gasket set

Above parts for my 3.0 SC is working out at about £750 inc. VAT

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Ah ok - Have read a few interesting things on Pelican about new chains on old sprockets so will probably stick with the originals, Although tempting, I am not planning to split the bottom end as this has only done 88K and used very little oil, was a bit noisy on the top end due to being ready for tappet service but was pretty smooth and ran with no smoke ( apart from when stood for a while)

 

Plan is to replace rings, valve guides, bead blast heads, recut valve seats and build back up with original chains plus new gaskets/seals

 

Looks like my engine drop to service, cure a few oil weeps and clean/detail has got a bit more involved - oh well :D

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Bit more dismantling last night - heads split from cam box

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9680011529/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/9680011529_30c856c44b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

No 5 head ( The one that was leaking through the exhaust valve) removed

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9683253562/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3749/9683253562_2a69cf8178.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Reasonable amount of crabon build up - seat looks pitted and like it wasnt sealing well

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9683254332/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/9683254332_1a2a99f618.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Valves removed - both seats look in decent condition, both valves have cleaned up well - about 1mm of play in the exhaust guide and about half that in the inlet guide so it looks like new guides are on the cards - current plan is new guides, recut valve seats and build back up

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9680017273/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3748/9680017273_1102a5d324.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Other pair of heads removed ready to strip today

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9680017273/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3748/9680017273_1102a5d324.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Cam removed from cam box and both put in parts washer to soak :D

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Heads split from cam box and valves removed

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9687496194/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5460/9687496194_be4be853ae.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Heads bead blasted and ultrasonically cleaned - valve guide and exhaust stud removal next

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9684259871/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3765/9684259871_659133f690.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

First bore ( No 6) removed and top compression ring gapped - coming out at a slack 0.8mm

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/79205490@N02/9687498012/" title="Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/9687498012_864e740ac5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Untitled"></a>

 

Looks like its time for rings whilst its apart - oil scraper rings have a good build up of carbon, on the plus side the bore is in good condition and you can still see the cross hatching

 

Big parts order going in on monday :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Parts arrived and progress made !

 

Spent saturday making a jig for my miller to hold the heads at the correct angle so I could core the guides out

 

 

9790324145_525fdd3ec9_z.jpg
Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Guides cored out with 11.5mm drill - drilled 40mm then punched out, the cored area stops the guide broaching the head on its way out
Guide Removed and bore lubed with a squirt of wd40 so the new guide doesnt gall on its way in
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Made a tool to insert the guides with - read up on the pelican forum that the best results were using an air chisel with a punch to drive the guides home with no distortion - bought a new punch and turned it down to fit the guide nicely then made a stop that fits over the top of the guide and sets it at the correct height in the head - put the guides and tool in the freezer for a few days - my wife thought she had bulletsin the freezer !
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Quick trip from freezer to garage - then a squirt with freezer spray to keep it as cold as poss before driving it home
Driven home - took seconds and minimal effort, the beauty of using the air chisel is you can feel the guide square up in the bore, using a press its easy to drive it in at a slight angle and distort the guide - plus as its slower the guide warms up
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Onto the inlet guides - had to alter the angle of the drilling jig ( I made it adjustable) as the inlet guides are at a slightly different angle, exhausts are about 25.4 degrees and inlets are about 28.7 if i measured correctly !
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Fitted the guide in the same way and it went in well
Lapped the valves in - thought the seats would need cutting to match the new guides but the valve fit is perfect, nice even seat lap all round, guides are a great fit - required no reaming at all ( despite me having bought a couple of adjustable reamers in case) really happy with the fit
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Just the other 4 valves off this bank to lap in tomorrow :D

Lost the last pic - heres the first finished head

 

 

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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
Looks better than how it started !
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Untitled by alexb1969, on Flickr
:D
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Brilliant. It's threads like this that are making me seriously consider dropping the engine myself just to see how it goes and do a few jobs to take advantage of the fact the engine is out. That said, it's going to be a few years before I'm brave enough to take a drill or air chisel to anything!

Well done, look forward to reading (and seeing) more.

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Brilliant. It's threads like this that are making me seriously consider dropping the engine myself just to see how it goes and do a few jobs to take advantage of the fact the engine is out. That said, it's going to be a few years before I'm brave enough to take a drill or air chisel to anything!

Well done, look forward to reading (and seeing) more.

Likewise.

 

I am not afraid of doing any work on any car but the last time I took an engine apart it was a Ford X-flow out of a TVR Vixen (a bit more basic than prime pork!)and I am sure it was more luck than judgement that it worked when re-assembled!

 

The threads on here are really making me wonder if (when the time comes) I really should have the balls to give it a go. Well done all of you :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
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