mark bevan Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Well, now I know what is causing the noise when I press the accelerator too far. My 1982 SC with a 10 series 3.0 engine has at least one broken head stud. It's done 188k klm. I,ve done a top end rebuild on another engine two years ago. I'm thinking of going the whole hog with this one and splitting the case, or at least replace the b/e shells - without splitting the case. Has anyone split the case on a similar mileage engine and then found it to be OK and not worth the extra hassle? The service history is good and I have regularly changed the oil/filter. Regards, Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryH Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) When I had my top-end rebuild on my SC (~130K miles) we replaced the shells but didn't split the case. My through bolts now leak (the end where you would have to split the case to replace them) YMMV Edited July 29, 2013 by GaryH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 I've just checked a few of mine and at least one looks suspicious. I'll do a better check when the engine is out and CIS stripped off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Well, I started the engine strip today. I have stripped as much as possible with the engine in the car as I intend to leave the gearbox in, and I struggled when I did it this way last time as the fan caught on the rear bodywork. Also I have no help weekdays and need to make it as light as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Engine is out and CIS removed. Looks like the crank seal is leaking so a full rebuild is on the cards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djf67 Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hi Mark, Following with interest but I think i'll be sending mine to a man who does, rather than tackling it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALEX P Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 I thought it looked quite a nice clean engine on top, underneath has clearly had a couple of new oil tubes and one looks a bit mullered - Did you do a leakdown or compression on it? Looks like the crank seal is leaking so a full rebuild is on the cards. Crank seal is easy enough to do without splitting the case so you still have options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryH Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Crank seal is easy enough to do without splitting the case so you still have options. Pretty sure mine was done before I had my rebuild so I thought this too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Engine teardown has stopped. The cam nut is different to the one I did before so the tools I have don't fit this later cam setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Finally got the cam tool (£125) and the nuts loose. Teardown can re-start. Sold the crowfoot & cam holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi Mark Good luck mate - going through the same process myself. Have you got yourself a propane torch for the head stud removal - a must! Cheers Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 No. But a mate has who removed them for me last time. In two minds still on just replacing the dilavar studs with steel & keeping the original steel inlet studs. I'll see what condition there in when I remove the cylinders. Can't wait to find out what the cylinders are - Alusil or Nikasil? Regards, Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moss Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 In two minds still on just replacing the dilavar studs with steel & keeping the original steel inlet studs. You need to replace all with the same type, don't mix them as you will get different thermal expansion rates and almost certainly break the old ones as soon as the engine gets hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi Nick, They have surface corrosion on them so all of them are history. YIPPPEEE MAHLL stamp on the cylinders. Still see the honing. Do I need to re-do? Head seals not in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moss Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 It's the rings you need to look at, it's rare for these barrels to wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Agreed. Hope to complete the teardown - including the block - tomorrow so I can start measuring/inspecting/cleaning and find out what parts I actually need to replace/engineer. I had a spare engine valve guides K-lined. Anyone any thoughts on this as a long term solution? As I have now sold the engine. Regards, Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Cracked it. Now, where's my old school ruler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Had the crank measured today and all is GOOD - phew - just needs a polish. Checked the heads today and most of the studs on the exhaust side are nackered and could do with replacing. Anyone removed these successfully? - they look difficult. I have removed one and it has completely shredded the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Great news on the crank Mark. On the exhaust studs it's heat heat heat. Got a few out on mine but stopped for now.Can always cut them flat , centre punch and then drill out. If the threads are fecked you can timesert them. Good luck mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Got the crank back today and I'm well pleased it's within tolerance and the journals have polished up well. I couldn't get the cases in the dishwasher so took them over to be cleaned in a proper washer along with the inter shaft for a polish on the 2 small journals. Just need to spend money tomorrow on parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 One difficult job sorted - removed the worn out exhaust head studs. Had to grind the stud so a 6mm stud remover would go on. Then heat the aluminium and freeze spray the stud - BINGO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenC Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) Fair play to you! Took me about two months to get all my exhaust studs out Edited September 3, 2013 by BenC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Good effort Mark - very well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Well, The exhaust studs storey is; 8 looked ropey so needed removing. 1 pulled the thread as it came out and 2 snapped and needed cutting flush, dot punch and drilled out - now need a 8mm x 1mm tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 I have just tried to get the six piston oil squirters to squirt but all six are blocked. I have adapted a small nozzle to fit in the hole and blown pressurised brake cleaner, from both ways, for a hour now and none will budge. I then poked some 35Amp wire down both ends for another hour and still no progress. Has anyone got over this problem please? Regards, Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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