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Update from Chez-Jev: Jevvy's 3.6 Carrera


jevvy

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Some would say that you would find the welding a lot easier if you just drill out the spotwelds for the old panels and fit all new stuff, will line up better and you won't have the situation of cutting one side out, cutting a piece to fit and finding you are a mm or two out in the middle - you can't weld air.

 

Some would definitely say that what looks like the harder job is ultimately the easier/less nerve wracking/more effective/more conscientious job but I couldn't possibly comment, for obvious reasons.

 

Some might also say you should ring Tuts and get a quote from them to replace the whole front pan if the car gets delivered totally stripped and ready to cut into. I would never say that as obviously you know who you trust to do the job.

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Glad to hear it isn't as bad as first feared. Have you got a welder yet? If you're doing it yourself with a Tig set, try and find a cheap Mig from somewhere that'll take the flux coated wire. I find it really good for tacking up and getting everything in place before you seam it. You can break the tack fairly easily if you've made a balls of it and go again.

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Jevvy - now the shock is over I'm sure you will sort it out in time honored Jevster fashion. There is nothing on these cars that has beat you yet :)

 

I will nervously look at my tray soon. Good luck.

 

Andy

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Jev,

 

That's a real bummer - bit more extensive than it looked now you have dug into it but good that not as bad as feared.

 

I think that you can definitely crack this. Changing out the tank support & lower suspension mount panel is a lot of work (probably a bit more than 2 or 3 days) but could still be an option worth considering. Whichever route in my experience there are always unexpected issues that take time to address; like removing stuff to improve access, corrosion in adjacent panels, making repair panels fit, getting additional tools and so on. Not a problem but you can't expect to knock them over as quickly as a bodyman in a professional workshop.

 

I'd always look to see if a more limited repair could be possible. If you're lucky it can be done in a way that's equally strong & pretty much invisible once finished. From what you say this could be possible but probably not too helpful to spectuate further without a full understanding of the job.

 

You can borrow any of my kit that you need (inc MIG & cutting gear) & I'm happy to come and assist if you need it. Nothing will prevent success - may just take a little more time. If it's helpful to have a second view on approach before you commit down a path then let me know & I can come over (with caliper).

 

Cheers David

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John, thanks for the link, ultimate pics! (PS bring back old JG, I need some insults!)

 

David, you need to be careful making offers like that - you might see me taking you up one some or all of what you mention, really really appreciate the offer.

 

I'm not worried about making it strong I'm just a lil concerned about how far stuff has gone and what can be rescued. I will never be looking for concourse or factory perfect, thats not what the car is about but I do want it to look tidy and be strong. Heres some snaps:

 

OMG, WTF!

post-37-1179871589_thumb.jpg

 

Nothing to see here...move along

post-37-1179871634_thumb.jpg

 

Sides are good, middle is donner kebbabbed

post-37-1179871648_thumb.jpg

 

The money shot

post-37-1179871664_thumb.jpg

 

Yeah, everyone on the street heard this puppy!

post-37-1179871674_thumb.jpg

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Restoration Design - generally accepted as the best replacement panels for work like this other than factory parts. They are a drop-in replacement with immmediate perfect fit. Worth considering. I haven't read one negative thing about their panel fit, but lots of people who wished they had used their stuff.

 

PS bring back old JG, I need some insults!

You don't need insults, you need a sainthood LOL ;)

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This pic scares the bejeebies out of me:

You think you're scared Jevvy, the rest of the mechanical dunces like me, can't even look at that picture :cry:

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This pic scares the bejeebies out of me:

Well you can always sell a few bits to raise some cash and I will come down with the truck and a towrope and we will drag it to a bodyshop of your choice. You have brakes, lights etc, so towing a total piece of cake. Or I can get the trailer and come over, or we rent one in Reading and just take it wherever.

 

Strip the front off, drop everything out of it, order the complete new front end from Resto Design for $190 and pick the car up a week later all done. Ring around get some other quotes to do it with the front off and the tank out.

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This pic scares the bejeebies out of me:

Jev,

 

Actually now it's clearer how these panel fit together I don't think dropping them in would be difficult as long as the fit is good. This would be worth paying for. The hard bit is cutting/drilling the existing ones out - not difficult just time consuming. It looks like you may not need to go as far down the tank sides as the panels allow. Spot welds are very easy to do well, even with little experience.

 

Would be worth just cutting into the underside between the suspension mounts to see how extensive the corrosion is. Nothing lost. I'm thinking the full panels looks favourite but if the corrosion underneath is limited to the centre/left area then maybe possible to cut them down & do more limited surgery.

 

As John says, just having the old cut out & new full panels welded with you doing the disassembly is definitely worth looking at. If you do the paint & reassembly then I can't see its more than a full day's labour for a good professional. I rented a trailer for mine for £33/day with a £200 deposit. No reason to think you can't do the same in Reading. Advantage here is you get it done quickly & save on all the expensive bits and bobs that you never initially cost. This is balanced against learning a new skill.

 

Good going. David

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Having seen the pictures, I'm with David on this one. Give it all a good clean up and have a look at cutting into the underside to see what's going on because I think a full replacement panel is a bit sledge-hammer to crack a nut. Removing the old panel is a bit of a PITA, because you've got all the paint and other crap to get through to find the spot welds. They weren't apparent on mine until I'd taken the car back to bare metal.

 

I really think you can get a very strong job here by careful and neat cutting out, followed by some bending and shaping and welding in. Any (reputable!) back street garage that you go to would probably do the same, so I don't really see why you should make life hard for yourself.

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Really really appreciate the input guys, I did a bit more digging today but no snaps. The rot is most of the way across the underside of the tank support piece so think that I will get away with a part patch rather then a full pan but not sure if thats easier or harder.

 

I need to have a think about the different angles of attack and what to nail first, dont want to dig in too deep only to wish I had measured/braced/locked/jigged something else first.

 

David, If you have time one evening maybe you could offer some thoughts on angle of attack and I'll get you a beer or 2 :-)

 

Ian if you are serious I would love some help one day, I will of course provide food and refreshments for the day!

 

Jevvy

 

<bricking it>

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Ian if you are serious I would love some help one day, I will of course provide food and refreshments for the day!

 

Jevvy

 

<bricking it>

 

Jev - might not be a dab hand with welders but happy to supervise the Pongo, act as apprentice and make the tea. Keep in touch.

 

Andy

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Really really appreciate the input guys, I did a bit more digging today but no snaps. The rot is most of the way across the underside of the tank support piece so think that I will get away with a part patch rather then a full pan but not sure if thats easier or harder.

 

I need to have a think about the different angles of attack and what to nail first, dont want to dig in too deep only to wish I had measured/braced/locked/jigged something else first.

 

David, If you have time one evening maybe you could offer some thoughts on angle of attack and I'll get you a beer or 2 :-)

 

Ian if you are serious I would love some help one day, I will of course provide food and refreshments for the day!

 

Jevvy

 

<bricking it>

I am serious and have pm'd you

 

Ian

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I am serious and have pm'd you

I think I am pretty free the weekend of the 16/17 June, can come down also if required, and the weekend after I think too. I will check it out with Mrs G.

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I think I am pretty free the weekend of the 16/17 June, can come down also if required, and the weekend after I think too. I will check it out with Mrs G.

 

When you should be Lemons getting red!

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Thanks for all the links and support chaps - it all helps.

 

flatsix777 aka David came over on Sat am to offer some advice as to how to approach repairing the rust issue I seem to have. After a bit of cutting, a bit of scraping, a bit of tinternet looking at new panels and of course some teeth sucking we came to the conclusion that pulling both the tank support and front pan was the best approach then I "should" be able to drop the new panels into place. I made a start drilling spot welds but had to stop before things start moving, I need to take copius measurements first of where all the suspension hookups are - any tips for this?

 

I was also thinking of trying to remove the front suspension brackets then trying to weld a temporary brace into place that has holes lined up with the existing sus bolt hookups, I can then simply bolt the new pan to this then make it fit around the seam rather then the other way around - has anyone seen this done? I suppose I'm borrowing the idea from this thread where 1972_911T created a jig to ensure he got the rear banana arm hookups in the right place following the removal of the torsion sube:

 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....G50+torsion+bar

 

Anyway, whatever the technique I'm going to DIY it with some help from David and Ian (thanks chaps) Once the rain eases I will be back out there cutting the crap out and getting ready to weld in the new stuff, I'm still hopeful for Snett.

 

I'm thinking about just picking up Dansk panels from Type 911 unless anyone has any better/cheaper ideas?

 

1 other thing thats appeared on my radar is shall I just bite the bullet and lob some fiberglass bumpers on? Now I have removed my current bumpers I have realised how manky they are and that it would cost a canny bit to make then nice but they will always be heavy. If I am really chasing the 300/ton goal then bumpers make a lot of sense.......its never ending!

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Apparently the Haynes manual has a very good section on diagonal measurements. I will post you mine if you haven't got one. If you go the way of drilling all the spot welds then it should all line itself up from what I've read mate.

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