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Posted

Well ladies and gents, the Black pearl is set to be my 911 for next year after an unintentional spill in my 964. With that there are some issues that I've been wanting to sort mostly as I can't help myself. The transmission is crunchy into second and when I did a compression and leak down test. Cylinder 3 produced a poor result.

 

All the rest were good but as the car was stored for a long time with limited service history and the mileage states 40 odd k ? I'm willing to accept that it's due a rebuild. The engine is clean and stock. Doesn't leak any oil so will be doing a top end only. Mostly to find out why I've got poor leak down on the exhust side. Suspecting a valve guide.

 

Things I'll be doing as I have the engine out is a new clutch, and transmission rebuild.

 

Now the engine will appear stock from the outside only changes as I have them will be sc cams 1 bar boost spring and possibly an upgraded turbo. I'll be rebuilding the stock turbo regardless. This should give me a nice 330bhp engine with reliability. Ala sse.

 

Photos to come.

 

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Any suggestions from the 930 crew would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

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Posted

'Avin' seen the mysterious Black Pearl wiv me own eyes, oi can attest that she be the finest ship any brigand everrr set sail in... and more so wiv more blown wind in 'err sails.

Your car is very beguiling, Dave. I shall follow this thread. Shouldn't all posts in relation to the BP be in pirate-speak?

Posted

Arrgh GIna!, would love to however there be landlubbers on this forum and its confusing enough aye :)

Posted

i have a similar low mileage car .........was stored for 12 years before i got it ,a little while back

 

suggest changing headstuds , if not already done .........purely time corrodes them , not all down to usage

 

i have larger intercooler , turbo and 4 pipe exhaust all ex factory when new ...........i was advised to try 964 cams ,might be worth looking into

 

good luck ,smashing looking car in black

Posted

What are your plans for the 'box Dave?

 

How's the 964 getting along - You say you're gonna be in the batmobile all of next year??????

Posted

Yes for the majority. The 964 is getting some serious stuff done to it weld in cage carbon roof and engine is getting boost via a rotrex but not as is commonly done. Probably won't be ready till 2016. So the black peal will be my daily aaargh!

 

Was thinkin about a modern ceramic turbo. Rear silencer will reman twin out let.

 

Had the engine out of the 964 today. Chassis looks good on inspection just the near side crush tube mount is squished.

Posted

Ok so had the engine out of the 964 and most of the body work stripped on Monday. Poor girl looking a bit sad but it's off to get molested in and over over the next few months at gtr racing.

 

Although I can get the engine out of the 964 in about 90 mins the turbo proved a bit more of a challenge today.

 

As there is not a lot of info on turbos specifically(or at least I can't find any) there were a few casualties. Namely the earth strap although I suspect this was pretty shagged anyway by the look of it.

 

The oil line to the turbo pump from the tank proved difficult due to corrosion so that was dispatched wth the drummel !

 

There are a bunch more breather hoses on this engine an more hidden stuff but slowly slowly eased the engine out checking as I went.

 

The clutch cable was pretty ( easier than the g50) but the linkage to the accelerator cable was quite corroded so got pretty mullered getting it off so gone need a new one of them. The two oil hosed (although the not leaking )from the thermostat to the oil tank and from the thermo to the engine are now 27 years old and the swagger bits are corroded so will be replacing them.

 

The oil tank will be coming out for a service.

 

Apart from that the engine is very clean and leak free. It seems to have a new metering head and warm up regulator which is a relief. The clutch throw out bearing was pretty shagged but the clutch was in good condition. Rms is leaking so that will be getting relaced drive shafts need servicing and the heater boxes will need replacing as will most of the trunking hoses.

 

 

The tinware isn't too bad so will powder coat.

 

Turbo will be refurbished as there was oil in the intake suspect the seals have gone on the turbo.

 

Rear suspension shocks could do with replacing as well as the drop links to the arbs and Arb bushes.

 

The engine removal is well covered in 101 projects but for the turbo remember the oil line to the turbo oil pump, remove the inter cooler and intake on top of the metering head. Speedo can be poped out of transmission or disconnected in between the seats where the gear linkage is.

 

Don't forget the drive shafts and disconnect the earthing strap which is connected to the transmission attaché to the chassis on the base near the hand brake cable drivers side. Disconnect the s pipe from the oil tank and not the oil cooler to prevent oil spilling everywhere.

 

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Tear down to come

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Right so I had the transmission off and it is at at rsr engineering getting rebuilt.

 

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I startted stripping the engine by removing all the ancillaries. My process is not as you should but it worked for me asI ran into some difficulties from and old enemy namely rust so had to adjust my strategy.

 

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Remove distributer cap and disconnect leads

 

Remove the condensor from the top of the fan housing

 

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This gives you better access for removing the leads

 

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Remove leads from under the manifold.

 

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Remover hose elbow to gain access

 

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work your methodically around the top half disconnecting all hoses and accelerator linkages from under manifold. Dont forget to disconnect all the wiring from the loom to the ancillaries.

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Disconnect fuel injectors from the hard piping lines. You should now be able to ease the manifold assembly off in a oner

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Leaving the throttle intakes in place with the injectors.


Remove the alternator securing strap. alternator housing should now be loose. Take note of the position of the wiring

 

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You can now disconnect the wiring from the alternator, remove the alternator in its housing and remove the wiring loom from the engine shroud.

 

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Remove the engine shroud.

 

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Posted

Remove the thermostat, and the oil cooler

 

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This is where it got tricky for me as the heat exchangers would be removed but they were effectivly welded onto the studds with rust so i opted to remove them once i had better access to the flanges hence leaving them in place. I also purchased a map o2 setup for 3000 degree no messing around get those nuts off action

 

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Posted

Ok so remove the turbo from the heat echangers including the bracket holing it to the engine and the engine carrier at this stage.

 

Now its time to get into the long block

 

remove the rocker covers

 

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Check for the broken head studds. I couldnt believe I had none. But there you go.

 

Chain housing covers cme off after youve remover the sensors and the oil lines

 

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Remover the securing nut and thrust washers from the cams remove the tensioners.

 

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Remove the rocker shafts undoing the small allen head bolt in the shafts and then gently tapping the shafts out using a small socket and extension bar.

 

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Posted

You have to remove the rockers to get the cams out.

 

Once youve removed the cams they should slide out easily be sure to keep an eye out for the chain sprocket dowel pins and the woodruff keys in the cams. These need to come out before the cams come out. There are also thin shims used to align the cams that need to be watched for.

 

REmove the chain tensioner housings

 

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There are 18 13mm nuts and wavey washers securing the cam towers to the heads

 

Remove cam towers

 

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Posted

As you can see the heads still have the heat exchangers attached. this is not a problem. Undo the 12 socket head studds securing the heads. I did one head at a time working from the outside in. Remove heads from head studds.

 

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This exposes the pistons and cylinders

 

you can now remove any of the heat ducting tin that dint want to come off earlier.

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Remove the pistons by using a small screwdriver on the gudgeon pin spring clips. Gently tap the gudgeon pins out using a deep socket.

 

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You are then left with the short block

 

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I might be splitting the case but on inspection everything is in very good order.

 

I would go into more detail but the basic engine is the same as in many of the other rebuilds. For the turbo its more the ancillaries and I will hopefully be detailing this once the long block is back together.

 

Thats it for the next month Im off to work :(


PS after cleaning for hours with diesel and paint stripper do not use the wifes dishwasher under any circumstances.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Had a few it's back from the electro platers hmmm shiney! Had the alternator refurbished and the starter motor. Nothing further just yet.

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Posted

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Groan..... Thought I'd take the oil tank out for a service ended up having to cut a few of the oil lines as nearly 30 years of no movement resulted in rock solid fittings on the tank. Don t want to damage the tank so sacrificed a few hoses instead. Bugger more things to buy and a potential pig of a job getting the hoses off the thermostat :(

 

On inspection today the heater flapper boxes are knackered so will be replacing those. Replacing the bilstein shocks as well while I'm in there as one is leaking. At least there's no rot .... Oh god I've said it .

Posted

Thing is I just can't help myself. Even if things aren't leaking and still doing their job, if they look crummy and likely to fail in the future I just can't let it be! Think I've got a problem :) transmission has been rebuilt one will post photos, just ordered a spanking new k27 turbo to replace the stock 3ldz. Sc Cams are being modded to run the scavenger pump.

I think this was the upgrades to the le and SE models so should look and go like one of them when it's done!

Posted

Double groan.... Things are gonna get expensive now :(. Can you spot the mistake. Should know better really think I dremmelled the it's off on my 3.2. Guess I'll be looking for a new oil thermostat now. Crap.

 

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Posted

Great read Dave keep it going

I've got to do my oil tank been putting it off for the very same reason as I think mine will end up like your

ATB with ongoing work Kenny

Posted

It's turning into a mini resto at the min BU. Replacing the boots on the driveshafts heater boxes flappers have fallen off. (Got some of those fancy stainless ones coming from Germany). had the sills off today and the good news is there is no rot hiding in the usual places. The sc cams and k27 are meant to transform the character of the car. Will wait and see I'm hoping to be ready for March april time.

Kenny you're better off just cutting the lines with a hack saw. You'll get better access to the nuts to dremmel them off. It's a messy job.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Look what Santa sent me. ,!

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Some Fuch centre caps fresh rubber boots for the bumpers and some stainless heater flapper boxes from Germany which are just lovely bits of kit.

 

Powder coating came too. Heads have been blasted now all the hard work begins. :(

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