Jonny Hart Posted November 20, 2014 Posted November 20, 2014 Hi, trying to get some numbers as to who might be interested in a replacement fuse panel using a poll topic - hope it works! Here are the headlines for the fuse panel: 'Plug and play'. Screw Terminals, simple installation, no wiring mods required. Led diagnostics for blown fuses Integrated headlamp relays 21 standard fuse ways. 3 spare fuse ways for additional circuits Target Price £120 - 150 dependent on final costings. Please answer the poll, cheers. Jonny
Jon Miller Posted November 20, 2014 Posted November 20, 2014 Can't see the poll using tapatalk, but I'd be interested in one as described above.
alastair Posted November 21, 2014 Posted November 21, 2014 Put me on the list please Cancel above - just saw the poll bit at the top of the post & have clicked on deffo interested!
Jonny Hart Posted January 14, 2015 Author Posted January 14, 2015 I have doing been some work on sourcing parts for the fuse panel. The biggest problem is that in Europe there are no suppliers of what they call 'boxed' screw terminals. To be precise, what we are looking for is a connector that is similar to the original screw terminal with the following spec: Boxed design (wire in hole) 30A rating PCB mount What you can get in abundance is "barrier strips" - large plastic connectors with screw terminals. Trouble with these it that they are too large to fit in the original fuse panel. I ordered a number of samples. This mock up shows how they dwarf the original fuse holders: Ignoring the jumbo connectors, the picture shows the intention of how the blade fuse holder and diagnostic LED will sit and also shows how an automotive relay fits nicely in the space. Eventually I found a supplier of the right kind of terminal in the US and have ordered some samples. They look like this I am currently waiting for them to arrive. Once we have these I will post another mock up to see what the concensus is.
ab54666 Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 This doesn't look that big, not quite the connectors you want but only need a spade put on the wire: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/12-way-blade-fuse-box-side-entry
Jonny Hart Posted January 15, 2015 Author Posted January 15, 2015 ^ Well kinda but in actual fact you have to put at least 42 spades on 42 wires. In many cases, you have to put more than one wire into one crimp which they are not designed for. The wires are all different gauges and if you have more than one of the thicker wires they won't even fit. You then have to work out how to replicate the hidden bus bars (which are on the back of the Porsche fuse blocks) by making up wiring bridges using yet more crimps. So over all, I reckon you're talking at least 60 crimps. Every time you add a crimp, you are introducing a potential failure point. Considering the average user will probably buy their crimp tool in Halfords, this is really asking for trouble. Ask yourself how many times you have managed to pull the wire out of a crimp connector having thought it was a good connection. I run an electronics firm so can justify spending £200 on a professional ratchet crimp tool but this is way beyond what people are prepared to pay for a fuse board upgrade. Even with a decent tool I hate crimps with a vengeance. Did I say I don't like crimps? My plan involves staying with the screw terminal idea and tracking the bus bars on a PCB that will be a bolt in replacement for the Porsche fuse blocks. The PCB will also integrate headlamp relays and diagnostic LEDs for fuse failure. In other words a plug and play integrated product, rather than a collection of parts. There won't be the need for any additional wiring or modification to the existing loom. One of the design goals is that the upgrade can be performed without having to tag any of the wires and in less than an hour.
David Gander Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Agree with what you say about the terminals Jonny, it makes sence. Nice that the project is progressing though, and looking forward to the eventual outcome. Regards, D.
Kieran T Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Put me in as a maybe , I need to verify how "original" my wirirng actually is , a big concern for me would be I'm half way through re wirirng and discover some PO has "modified " something - I also have a defunct alarm system wired into the loom to check . I particularily think the LED and Headlight relays will be excellant features in the final design , so quite interested Kieran
Beaky Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Agree with what you say about the terminals Jonny, it makes sence. Nice that the project is progressing though, and looking forward to the eventual outcome. Regards, D. Ditto, think this was the consensus from the original thread
Jonny Hart Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 Hi, The screw terminals arrived from the US. 30A rated and the hole is a similar size to the originals. They are very good quality. I made a new mock up. This is looking much better now, pretty much the same size as the original Porsche fuses. Clearly, the blade fuses and holders are much taller. The original fuse box lid will still fit on with about 1mm to spare! Now that the components have been selected I can move forward with the layout. Feedback welcome as always.
David Gander Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 That size looks bl@@dy brilliant, very neat and the fact that there is a good posibility that it all will fit under the original factory cover when in installed is even better. Looking forward to the next faze Jonny to see how it all comes together. Regards, David.
alastair Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Looks great. Is that an LED indicator next to each fuse?
Mobydick Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 I've put down a 'maybe'. What are the problems with the original Porsche design? Mine fuse box is in pretty good nick, so why I prefer the blade fuses not sure it's worth the hassle...but I'm probably missing something here??! Mike
David Gander Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Mine are also I good nick Mike, but the trouble with the ceramic torpedo fuses is oxidisation and iffy contact at their ends. They are not an out of sight, out of mind item as that is asking for trouble. One needs to regularly look at them, twiddle them and occasionally remove and clean; if not, they will let you down. All in all, they are a faff!! There are probably more technical reasons which others may explain better than I. Regards, David.
Jonny Hart Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 @Mobydick. One of the issues is that it is hard to find actual ceramic fuses. They are nearly always plastic these days. If the brass contact is not perfectly clean and making a good contact the fuse heats up and the plastic melts. Over time, the fuse gets squashed and goes loose in the holder. Despite regularly cleaning the fuse holders, I'm always having to 'go wiggle' a fuse. Last time this happened, I couldn't close the sunroof as I went on to the motorway, just as it started to rain. Irritating to say the least. @alastair. Yes, the red led will illuminate to indicate a blown fuse.
Mobydick Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 David, Jonny, thanks for the explanation. Sounds like a prudent safety feature to prevent the car going up in a puff. .. And much cheaper. I've changed my vote to definitely interested. Thanks for organising Jonny. Mike.
ALEX P Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 The bullet fuses are just a bit sh1t really aren't they. Great stuff Jonny, very neat. I'm getting more interested as this goes on. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Wingnonut Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 How did I miss this back in November?????? I'm defo in. Looks really good. Well done Jonny
Fatkenny Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 That looks great Jonny Do the blade fuse holders come with terminals that will fit into the crew clamps or would there be a bit of soldering involved ? Very interested great work
Jonny Hart Posted January 25, 2015 Author Posted January 25, 2015 No soldering. The replacement blade fuse unit will come fully assembled requiring only to move the wires over from the original terminals. At the moment I just showed the components placed on a piece of black card. That will become a custom PCB which the fuse holders, terminals, led etc soldered on with tracks providing connection between components.
alastair Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 Hi Jonny, I know there was some talk of possibly incorporating headlamp relays etc, but I would just like the plain fuse bar. I have already done the headlamp relay mod using OE relays & sockets in some of the blank holes on the existing fusebox chassis. Will a plain fuse bar be an option? Regards Alastair
David Gander Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 No doubt Jonny will put up picts. of final mock-up Alastair, as I've yet to get around to doing my headlamp relay conversion (although I have all the necessary bits). Holding off deciding which way to go with the headlamp mods until Jonny firms up on the design. I only got one spare hole on the Turbo original chassis, so may have to do a remote mounting from the main fuse board, we'll see. Regards, David.
Jonny Hart Posted January 25, 2015 Author Posted January 25, 2015 Hi Alastair, It's a tough call. I will probably end up doing a standard 21 way fuse block as well as the relay one as a lot of folks have converted already.
crisc204 Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Nice idea, I'd be interested in these fuse boards with the 21 way board if the board was of standard dimensions Are you going to make the 3 way for the engine bay? for any one with HID lights or thinking of uprated bright bulbs the headlamp relay kit as fitted above is a really good idea. All the current goes through a tiny contact in the light stalk, a relay kit drops this significantly I like a bit of rewiring to modernize making these more reliable. We'll stop short of a CANbus IB though lol
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