daveuxb Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Odd one this Fed, might be worth double checking the specs on the crank ie how big the rod and main journals are against the porsche max wear specs. Could even be that there was too much play in the bearing to crank clearance giving that effect on the bearings. I hope it's all sorted out Soon.
Dr Rock Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 Do they have any clues to what caused the problem Fraser.Nope. 911 oil filter doesn't have a ball bearing in it, does it? On the Beetle I had a full flow Berg oil filter system with a Fram HP1 filter. The Fram didn't have a bypass ball bearing in it- one time I put a £3 Golf filter in place of the £18 HP1 and I couldn't get oil pressure. Tried all sorts to find the problem and it wasn't until I put the old HP1 back on everything worked. Turned out the ball bearing didn't work...
MaxDiesel Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Nope. 911 oil filter doesn't have a ball bearing in it, does it? On the Beetle I had a full flow Berg oil filter system with a Fram HP1 filter. The Fram didn't have a bypass ball bearing in it- one time I put a £3 Golf filter in place of the £18 HP1 and I couldn't get oil pressure. Tried all sorts to find the problem and it wasn't until I put the old HP1 back on everything worked. Turned out the ball bearing didn't work... I fitted a Genuine Porsche filter once and had unusual gurgling noises from the tank as soon as I started the engine - after a short drive I check the oil and it was highly aerated... Fitted a Mahle OC54 instead and it was fine again. Haven't risked running a Genuine Porsche filter since, have heard of others having problems with them too.
strosek34 Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Mahle OC54 for me as well, Can't believe the problem is just down to the oil filter though, do they always use the Porsche filter or was it a one off for your engine. Have they checked all oil ways are clear of any floating debris.
Dr Rock Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Mahle OC54 for me as well, Can't believe the problem is just down to the oil filter though, do they always use the Porsche filter or was it a one off for your engine. Have they checked all oil ways are clear of any floating debris. Not saying it is the oil filter.And yes, all the oil ways/coolers/thermostat/oil tank all cleaned, steam cleaned, brake fluided, pressure washed, air lined, borescoped to check inside etc. Nothing found anywhere. That's what they don't like. There is no smoking gun. DB Cooper has done the deed and done a runner, never to be seen again. Edited July 2, 2015 by Dr Rock
Kieran T Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Dr Rock Sorry to hear of your woes - now I'm freaked out as I did change my oild to the Millers Nano at the last service and fitted the Red Porsche Oil filter ( Supplied by OPC) and have noticed a gurling noise as well -OMG! Kieran
Dr Rock Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 Panic ye not young sire- I've had the Millers in previously for about 3 years now, with no problems.
Kieran T Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Hmmmm The Millers Nanodrive 20/50 ? Reason I'm a little freaked is that we drove 3056 Km's a few weeks ago doing Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way , and a friend's SC 3.0 went south at speed on that run ( he too used Millers) and the gurgling I get with the red filter I never got with the VRI and the black filter , Have another 550 Klicks to put up this weekend Sorry to hear your woes sir - I had followed the start of the thread and saw everything being done " Just so" unfortunate mystery Kieran Edited July 2, 2015 by Kieran T
Dr Rock Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 Millers CFS NT 10-60. Sorry to hear of the 3.0 demise- hope it gets fixed!
Kieran T Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Oh it will get fixed , we dropped it last w/e and 1/2 way through tear down Kieran Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ALEX P Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Porsche filters are well known to gurgle but I seriously doubt whether they are 'sub-standard' and would cause any damage although Mahle are generally the first choice for filters. Fraser, sorry to hear about your engine woes but glad it's all getting sorted. Haven't really had much to say that others haven't so I've just been watching with interest. All be worth it in the end.
jevvy Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Fraser, sorry to hear about your engine woes but glad it's all getting sorted. Haven't really had much to say that others haven't so I've just been watching with interest. All be worth it in the end. Exactly how i feel and probably many others too, good luck dude.
Dr Rock Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 Exactly how i feel and probably many others too, good luck dude. I live in hope: maybe in 7 days time I'll be a happy bunny.
Dr Rock Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 Update time - GCR think bad bearings coupled with too thick oil... seems the original (new for the build) bearings were on the tight side, so we got away with the clearance with 10W-40 Shell Helix semi synth, but when the Millers 10W-60 went in: too tight. Hmm. I can see the bearings being out, but if Porsche Classic Oil is 10W-60, how can Millers NT CFS 10W-60 (proper PAO Group IV Basestock fully synth) be too thick? Another set of Glyco rod bearings were installed and the rods wouldn't rotate on the crank. Compared original bearings with new ones and both were thick in the shoulders and the overlap on the new ones was too much, so when the rod bolts were tightened the bearings pinched and clamped against the crank, like this Pelican thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/856995-glyco-vs-clevite-rod-bearings-data.html So now they are struggling to get bearings. Set of mains on the way from ECP, which may or may not be OK, and also investigating AA Clevite 77 rod bearings from the States....as per Pelican: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=0814&Previous_Section=ENGMAN&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=930-103-147-15-M987&I1.x=0&I1.y=0
jevvy Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 Hmmm, just re read some of the thread, can you describe a bit better how the engine was running badly?
Dr Rock Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 Hmmm, just re read some of the thread, can you describe a bit better how the engine was running badly?It "ran" perfectly, as in fuel and ignition on each cylinder was spot on.It "felt" rough, as though it was out of balance, or something, ie bearings, was sticking to something else. The rear view mirror image was fuzzy at all rpm, whereas the day before the image was crystal sharp at all times. Think NVH that you can feel in the steering wheel or if you touch the bodywork.
GaryH Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Isn't vibration going to be caused by imbalance/something loose so unbalanced pistons/crank, loose rod bolts? Edited July 6, 2015 by GaryH
SCud Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 Was the clutch juddering ? Sounds very much like the flywheel came loose.......
Dr Rock Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 Was the clutch juddering ? Sounds very much like the flywheel came loose.......Nope. All that was checked and even replaced: no change.Engine strip and look what was found...
SCud Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 Yes, very odd scenario. Were the bearing bores in the rods on size/ resized?
Dr Rock Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 Yes, very odd scenario. Were the bearing bores in the rods on size/ resized? New conrods.
SCud Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 It's a worry when you can't trust new bearings to be the correct size :-(
Richard Bernau Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Why do you need to run 10w60 oil? Not wanting to open a can of proverbial, but I have used 5W40 for 20k miles now. If you are using Millars NT or similar, then you get plenty of protection even with a thin oil. Not that the oil was really the cause.
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