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Drinky

Adjusting Wide Open Throttle position 3.2

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Gents, recently at a car meet, a guy came over to my car and appeared to be a bit of an expert and had a good look round my car. With the engine not running he asked me to fully push down the accelerator pedal, he then stated that I wasn't getting anywhere near WOT, as I wasn't getting anywhere near to the accelerator stop in the engine bay!

 

Is this complete b@llocks! As my car accelerates as I would expect.

 

Cheers Drinky

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It can be set/adjusted, but it's micro switch so not sure if it's something you can obviously see visually. I think it's pretty easy to check though with a bulb and a bit of wire or something.

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Seems abit harsh - may be he was trying to give some friendly advice?

 

Difficult to say without see your car, tho' I have heard of this before when some work has taken place the throttle mechanism has not be put back together properly and no WOT.

 

Easy enough to check tho, non ?

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Drinky - certainly not b*lls - very common issue actually.

 

cheers

 

Nathan

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Very common and easy to check, just get someone to floor the throttle with the engine off while you watch the thottle body, once the throttle pedal is floored see how much further you can rotate the throttle in the engine bay, if its a lot you are missing out on some ponies and the wot engine map. The wot microswitch can be felt clicking as you rotate the throttle to fully open. Lots of ways to adjust but easiest is to use the threaded adjuster under the throttle pedal to take out some of the slack, adjust and repeat the test.

 

Hope you find a bit more ooomph after adjusting, free hp!

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It is easy to check with meter and someone to press the pedal. Not sure how you tell without one though?

Sorry Jev answered my question whilst I was writing it.

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Its also possible for something behind the throttle pedal to stop you being able to full depress it (i.e floor mat). Ask me how i know :)

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Its also possible for something behind the throttle pedal to stop you being able to full depress it (i.e floor mat). Ask me how i know :)

Ha i had a friend that brought their golf tdi for me to look at cos they thought the turbo had broken as the car seemed very slow and wouldnt go up hills....you can guess where this is going....yup carpet under the pedal!

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Cheers guys, will check it all out when back from hols.

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Managed to get 1/2 hour at the weekend, definitely some slack at the pedal, I could see that I need to remove the board to get at the adjuster and didnt have the time to remove adjust and refit this weekend. Probably a job for September.

 

Thanks Again

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Very common problem on 3.2s. You can adjust at either end but easiest is at the pedal. Its mainly the midrange that suffers from not getting full throttle and top end is ok, hence why you may have felt it was not feeling too bad.

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Embarrassingly only just got round to this last weekend, adjusted but didn't notice much of a difference on a short run. Went out last Thursday for a much longer run, thought it was not at full chat at all, scratch head, go away for the weekend, whilst away, have I adjusted it the right way? Get back mid afternoon today, adjust the other way and wow!

 

Foolishly I was adjusting the brass adjuster down the tie bar, thinking its shortening the bar and therefore effectively taking up the slack! Doh

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Another job I have been meaning to do for ages. With a few days off I decided to check and yup... only 75% open. Just finished...

Did my adjustment by the trans as I didn't fancy popping the ball off the throttle pedal as the plastic pedal looked pretty hard and I was not happy farting about forcing the ball back in the socket with so little room. Piece of cake under the car...

One issue was that the linky rod with the loop looked bent and was very close to the lh drive shaft. After much trawling on line I couldn't find a definitive pic or photo. The PET is little use but infers a nice straight line either side of the trans loop. So I carefully straightened it anyway (no - not the actual loop) until it looked "right". Now it is perfect with a nice even gap from the driveshaft. WOT switch also ok.

Whilst I was crawling about I also replaced my rusty horns - courtesy of Eurocarparts Easter discount.

Now what shall I fettle?

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The linky rod can tend to catch on the LH CV joint, so beware. You'll feel the accelerator pedal vibrating if the rod is rubbing.

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Checked my WOT this afternoon, with the accelerator hard down to the floor, there is about a 4 to 5mm gap between the throttle linkage and the stop on the throttle housing.

 

So, am I getting WOT?

 

Should the gap be less than 5 mm, if so, what gap am I aiming for?

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You need to get a helper to press the throttle while you listen for the WOT throttle micro switch in the engine bay, if you can't hear it you aren't getting the WOT map. That last 5mm might also open the butterfly a bit more but that gain is insignificant compared to activating the WOT switch

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Ahhhhh ok, only checked the travel, did not listen for the click of a switch. Will try that tomorrow.

 

Thanks

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Any benefit in modding the throttle so the WOT micro switch gets opened a bit earlier.....? Obviously MPG will not benefit!

 

Chris.

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That's what ur right foot is for ;)

 

Wot map without a fully open butterfly is probably not a great idea.

 

Any benefit in modding the throttle so the WOT micro switch gets opened a bit earlier.....? Obviously MPG will not benefit!

 

Chris.

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I just hacked a bit off the stop on the back of the pedal to give me a bit more travel!

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Reviving this one.  My throttle position sensor 'should',  if I understand the Bentley correctly, trigger the WOT/Full throttle response?  I can hear the microswitch at the back of the throttle/accelerator lever clicking off idle, but no click noise when the accelerator lever is fully open (WOT).  I checked the continuity across the top two terminals on the TPS and there is none.  I rotated the TPS back and forth and still no continuity.

What are the options?  Remove the TPS and replace it? If so, how does it come off?  If I release the two small screws attaching it, it seems to want to stay on there?

Can these even be repaired? 

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Its just a simple rotary switch. I don't think they even "click" when activated. When you are testing for continuity test all three pins as one is not used. It just pulls off IIRC, its possibly repairable.

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The switch is most likely stuck on the shaft, will need a slight pull, or flat blade screw driver to help. I did repair mine as a wire inside had come adrift. Just take the black cover off and check continuity at different positions. To see if break can be re soldered 

Good luck

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Ok will check it out.  Didn’t want to force it off. No continuity seems a problem.

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