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Kevins 930

Bumper bellows replacement tips

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Hi Guys,

 

The driver side front bellows on my 930 is damaged by way of two of the fixing bolts have become detached from the steel plate that is bonded into the item.

 

First question is " does anyone have any tips on the procedure for removal from the front end ?

 

and 2nd has anyone effected a sensible repair to this item ?

 

Thanks

 

K

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You should be able to remove the bellows without removing the associated tinware but probably easier with the small rear tin part attached and then separate after. With regard to repair, that's unlikely unless there is enough depth of rubber to bond into. You will need new bellows really.

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So its a scramble from underneath then ? I have an oil heat exchanger that seems to be right in the way of access to the rear fixing bolts !!! does this have to be moved do you know ?

 

K

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It's easy enough to remove, access to the screws is the worst part, especially if they are corroded. A selection of mini ratchet spanners and screws drivers will help, especially if they have flexi extensions.

 

The bellows are available from Porsche and it's probably worth paying that bit extra so the new one matches the existing ones.

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Les ! Your thread has arrived ! :lol:

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Yes Nige it was the access that I wondered if I was missing a trick, but probably not.

 

the metal insert that the studs were fixed to has corroded, I will get the part of and review, but if new is required it will have to be a matching part so genuine Porker.

 

thanks

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Give them a good squirt with Silkopen or something.

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If they are to be replaced then get your socket on the nuts and turn hard. Hopefully they will shear, making removal way easier...... Put new ones back with stainless nuts and copper slip grease to avoid the same scenario someday in the future.

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If they are to be replaced then get your socket on the nuts and turn hard. Hopefully they will shear, making removal way easier...... Put new ones back with stainless nuts and copper slip grease to avoid the same scenario someday in the future.

Agree, I used stainless nuts and copper slip 12 years ago on my new bellows, had to undo them this month, no seized nuts or snapped studs. Worth the effort.

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I put mine back on with nylon nuts.

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Thanks guys, very useful tips.

 

The studs have indeed sheared off, as I think the committee expected. Will fit back with suitable SS items and copperslip.

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

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Kevin a few of my studs broke when I was taking my bumper off a few years ago! I did a repair on them using ss studs just bonded in with plastic metal, It was a doddle and I have taken them off last year no problem.

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Never really looked at the construction of the bellows from the inside ( but will be facing hits problem when I strip the car before it goes of to Sportwagan for its repairs and full body re spray) but would it be at all possible to drill out the sheared stud and put a rivnut in there so a bolt could be used instead of a stud and nut? Maybe the metal the stud sits in wouldn't be substantial enough ?

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would it be at all possible to drill out the sheared stud and put a rivnut in there so a bolt could be used instead of a stud and nut? Maybe the metal the stud sits in wouldn't be substantial enough ?

No. Just buy new ones.

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Yes Doc :)

 

I understand scrimping on a hundred quids worth of bellows when you are paying thousands for a re spray is a bit daft but I was just wondering if it may be a solution that may help answer the original question.

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Bellows removed, most, but not all, screws studs etc released with good ole plus=gas.

 

The bellows captive plate for forward fixings had rusted, but now a suitable repair has been carried out. I am lucky in that I own a company that has a proto type sheet metal workshop and it was an ideal project for the trainee to fabricate the captive plate and bond it in place with Sikkaflex.

 

Really looked as though the part had been badly made as all other similar detail parts were in great order.

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On 7/14/2015 at 11:19 AM, Kevins 930 said:

So its a scramble from underneath then ? I have an oil heat exchanger that seems to be right in the way of access to the rear fixing bolts !!! does this have to be moved do you know ?

 

K

Hi Kevin,

What did you do to access the threads hidden behind the oil cooler. I am in exactly the same position. I have undone the oil cooler top mounting bolt and the two lower bolts. I need some confirmation that I can push the oil cooler assembly upwards to release it from the lower mounts so that I can get behind it without disconnecting the oil lines, the fan and the electrics to the fan. Any help you can provide would be most welcome !

Peter

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On 12/18/2019 at 5:37 PM, carrpet said:

Hi Kevin,

What did you do to access the threads hidden behind the oil cooler. I am in exactly the same position. I have undone the oil cooler top mounting bolt and the two lower bolts. I need some confirmation that I can push the oil cooler assembly upwards to release it from the lower mounts so that I can get behind it without disconnecting the oil lines, the fan and the electrics to the fan. Any help you can provide would be most welcome !

Peter

I discovered that removing the horn assembly gave me all the access I needed to the rear of the bellows. The nuts being protected by the oil cooler in the wheel arch were really easy to remove !. I really didn't fancy moving the oil cooler with the oil pipes still attached it felt solid as rock ! Sometimes good to answer your own questions with a bit of trial and error !

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