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David Gander

ARP studs.

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Currently on eBay for a 930, ARP ss head studs at £589 and case studs at £811, any thoughts from the more knowledgable as to if it's good value (or just the average price) and pro's & con's of ss studs?

 

Thanks,

David.

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ARP are a very high grade s/s. bloomin lovely. so are their con-rod nut and bolts.

I went for them 'cos I didn't want any probs with the engine: cost cutting ain't 'appening on my build :twocents:

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There's lots of thread on Pelican about pros and cons of arp/supertec/Porsche studs - can't recall why Jaz fitted 993TT studs instead of ARP as they were a similar price back in 2008.

 

 

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...can't recall why Jaz fitted 993TT studs instead of ARP as they were a similar price back in 2008.

...coz they better init ;)

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I went for them 'cos I didn't want any probs with the engine: cost cutting ain't 'appening on my build :twocents:

 

Ditto.

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993TT studs used to be cheaper IIRC and they were similar to ARP. Being "Porsche" std kit gives some peace of mind and if that is what your engine builder is used to using, then I can understand the recommendation.

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993 tt are Dilivar fully threaded headstudds. ARP are high tensile stainless items. There is an argument that Dilivar has a better expansion contraction rate than the ARPs but Id go Arp every time. In fact Im building a 4.0 at the min with Carrillo pistons and Capricorn barrells and despite having a set of 993tt on the shelf Im going with ARP again as they did really well in my 3.8. That said I still think that corrosion is the downfall of most head studd failures coupled with metal fatigue and age. If you put stock steel ones in a stock 3.2 build I dare say they would be absolutely fine. Why would porsche sell them otherwise.

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