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Beaky

Its that time

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Although my Indie saying its not necessary to do yet, with 125k miles on the clock me thinks its time to plan a rebuild as I can feel the some loss in performance over the last year or so.

 

So thinking of going the 3.4 single spark root, what are the key ingredients, please add to the list.....?

 

ARP's

Mahle P&C's

New/refurb oil pump

New Cams DC20

Racing spec value kit

Lightened flywheel/pressure plate

 

Bored throttle body

New/refurb fuel pump

Usual tin wear refresh

 

.................

 

Thanks

 

 

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Sure the performance loss is not due to increased driver weight? ( not saying this is the case, but it might be a factor...:) )

 

Be prepared for a *big* bill.

 

I wouldn't do the flywheel and your car is a G50 so no l/w pressure plate.

 

What are you thinking for the exhaust?

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Sure the performance loss is not due to increased driver weight? ( not saying this is the case, but it might be a factor... :) )

 

Be prepared for a *big* bill.

 

I wouldn't do the flywheel and your car is a G50 so no l/w pressure plate.

 

What are you thinking for the exhaust?

Ok its a Lard ass issue...................lol

 

Not thought about exhaust, currently have the std set up except for a Dansk twin out

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I have got half an eye on that too but need to get a leakdown test to guage engine health so have made an extensive list which i will be happy to email if you care to pm your email. On top of your list there are lots of small bits and pieces that will add up as well as while in there jobs - personally I'd go with one of the better engine specialist which would add more £££s to the list. What CR are you aiming for?

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Exhaust valves will want replacing along with all guides. Might get away with re-using the inlets.

 

You said ARP which I presume you mean rod bolts but I would also change all head studs.

 

You can save some money by removing the engine yourself or even disassembling down to a point but reckon on around 18 hours labour to clean, measure & assemble the top end checking compression ratio and valve to piston clearances etc + all the sundries, sealants and materials.

 

As Mr.Mondrian has mentioned there are a whole heap of small parts to add to the bill - Mark Js rebuild had a reasonable breakdown of costs IIRC, of course you would have to add the fancy bits on top. Mahle P&Cs don't come cheap.

 

Good luck.

 

 

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Sure you've lost power or just got use to it? Get it dyno'd to see if any ponies have bolted and then make you decision. That is unless you've made your mind and have money burning in your pocket.

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Some creative "accounting" may be going on...:P

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I know their bottom end is normally good for a few hundred k's but is it generally a good idea to boost power in such way but leave the bottom end as is and not even check while in there?

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Your spec sounds like a replica of mine - no bad thing as I did hours of research, but make sure its what you want before you proceed. eg have you driven a car with a lightweight clutch, as the additional pedal effort could get tedious/tiring.
Same question with the cams, plus where are you hoping for the bump in power/torque to be felt?
If your P&Cs are in spec, are you still upgrading to a 98mm kit? If so, I reckon a top-end can breach 10k quite easily:

 

Labour - 50hrs x 70-ish/hr (based on BS Motorsport) - 3500 + vat

98mm P&Cs - £3500

Cams - 600

Rockers/shafts/bolts - 800 ish (if new needed; refurb recommended as a minimum

Headstuds - 500

Rod bolts - 300 ?

Re-map - 3-500

 

A bottom end would add approx 10hrs labours, again based on BS Motorsport quote - plus cost of oil pump @ 600 ish, bearings,

 

Personally, i'd leave your exhaust as is, unless your h/ex's need replacing - SSi's would save weight, but with additional cost of tinware, 2inlet silencer, oil lines. Headers would reduce heat output, but reduce weight and extend topend performance (in my experience)

 

Also, assuming you're still using Jaz, make sure they're still happy to use parts supplied by the customer - could get interesting if a fault occurs after completion and they've not supplied the parts.

 

Good luck though - aside from my choice of re-builder, i've no regrets about going 3.4.

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I wouldn't do the flywheel and your car is a G50 so no l/w pressure plate.

 

agree re flywheel, disagree with l/w PP - KEP PP fitted on mine

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agree re flywheel, disagree with l/w PP - KEP PP fitted on mine

have you driven a car with a lightweight clutch, as the additional pedal effort could get tedious/tiring.

 

Something to bear in mind on long Euro trips.

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So late last year WS dynoed and custom mapped the car and I got just under 250 bhp so happy with that.

 

But if the car stands for around a week on start up I get a room full of white smoke which suggests the rings/ value guides are gone or on their way out

 

I hear you on the lightweight flywheel, but have already fitted the mpl slave so hopefully net net it will feel the same.

 

A very healthy 250bhp and better mid range would be fine, 265 to 270, I.e. Longman speed wick wick nudge nudge say no more.....,would be nice, but if depends on what the price differential between the two are.

 

So lots to contemplate and your wealth of knowledge and experience is very helpful, thanks.

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White smoke on startup is fine as long as it clears as this is down to engine design. Blue smoke, even when hot, is a problem sign.

Doesn't sound as though yours needs a rebuild but if you want to enjoy the upgrade then why not. Life is too short

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Puff of smoke on start up and so long it clears pretty quickly is pretty normal as Shrish says and certainly isn't signs of wear.

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It is white smoke, more than just a puff but does clear immediately. Perhaps I should get a leak down test before jumping head long into this, that said nothing wrong with an upgrade!

 

Puff of smoke on start up and so long it clears pretty quickly is pretty normal as Shrish says and certainly isn't signs of wear.

 

Nige, don't you sleep,your post was at 5.51 am! :ninja:

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Nige starts feeding himself that is at that time so he can achieve his high calorie intake for the day

 

As others have said small puff of white smoke on start up seems the norm

 

With 250 ponies all sounds well but we all love a rebuild thread just get your wallet out !

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I don't sleep, was just catching up with things before I went for my 2k daily swim :)

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Why not buy the 3.6 on ebay & not have all the bother!

I did think of this, but wanted to keep matching number, and I would have needed to sell the 3.2 :cry:

I don't sleep, was just catching up with things before I went for my 2k daily swim :)

In that case from here-on-in you shall be known as Ninja Nige.......................... :ninja:

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It is white smoke, more than just a puff but does clear immediately. Perhaps I should get a leak down test before jumping head long into this, that said nothing wrong with an upgrade!

You need to drive your car more: mine will have a bit of smoke on start up if I haven't driven the car for a while. :twocents:

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You need to drive your car more: mine will have a bit of smoke on start up if I haven't driven the car for a while. :twocents:

I think you are correct didn't get a lots of miles on her last year only around 2.5k

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I think you are correct didn't get a lots of miles on her last year only around 2.5k

I'm always right :smartass:

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I'm always right :smartass:

Master.......................

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If your Indie has stated it doesn't need rebuilding I'm assuming they've done some checks before arriving at this conclusion?

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Most just do it the old fashioned way - seat of pants & exhaust smoke (or lack of it).

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