Dr Rock Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Nice pic. I've got a long list to think about from the inspection though... Your car is in great hands... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Do tell what the list is. I would have thought your car would be pretty good and only needs set up/adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) I would have thought your car would be pretty good and only needs set up/adjust. Me too. Apparently not though. I'll post later once Chris has had another look. Edited January 14, 2016 by reddevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 No worries. I caught up with Fraser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Rock Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 No worries. I caught up with Fraser. It's easily done: I am Captain Slow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metamat Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 FWIW I had So2's on 16x9, fitted at centre gravity, great tyre. Not sure of the size but would surprised if the were not stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Question on front coilovers here -> http://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28727-front-coilovers/#entry324523 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverWT Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Disaster! Kuhmo V70a's imported this year are not going to be e-marked, so 3 points per tyre if the plod catch you running them. Camskill say I'd be lucky to find 2015 e-marked stock, apparently they imported double last year... This appears to be misinformation, see the reply I just got directly from Kumho when I asked them... "Hi Mark, Thanks for the message. The V70A tyre retains its E mark so is still legal for use on the public highway, however the tyres do not comply with the latest EU labelling legislation. This means we cannot sell them as road tyre. The tyres carry a label which says that the tyre is designed for racing purposes. Thanks, Digital Team Kumho Tyre Uk " So legal to use on the road, it is just suppliers can not sell them as road tyres. Just tell them it is only for track day use when you order. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Was down at CG on the 9th of January for the health clinic with the California 78 SC targa and Chris did a cracking job setting it up. The main fault I had with the car was it felt very vague on the steering and twitchy on the motorway. Got down there at around 1.15pm and by 6.30pm was away all set up (with disgust from the wife, but she didn't need to come). One of things he did alter was the rake of the the car as it was 0° its now 1° negative nose down, doesn't sound much but has made a big difference. He also took the spacers out of the top of the front dampers (A California health and safety thing back then to raise the front bumper above knee height). He also made a great job last year of the 964 after I refreshed all the suspension on it....made it drive like a different car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Some light at the end of the tunnel on the saga of my KW's... Local mech about 100m down the road is going to remove the coilovers and uprights tomorrow inside my own garage so I can send them to KW early for a rebuild... Couldn't rebook with CG till 22nd. With any luck Chris and his team can then get it all sorted before the Oulton Park day. And it doesn't need to crowd out their workshop whilst we wait for the rebuild. Result. Finally I have a form V750/1 in my possession from the DVLA so whilst it's up on axle stands for a couple of weeks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 I'm going to replace the a-arm bushes (mixed rubber/poly currently front to back) - my thinking is Elephant Sphericals here. Reassuringly expensive. On the rear one trailing arm bush is poly one rubber (!) so I am thinking about going to the Elephant Monoball here. Also one of the spring plate bushes is concentric so wondering about an upgrade to the polybronze - however they are ruinously expensive - around $380 - do they really have that much of an effect? All together quite shockingly expensive in parts (~£700!) but I'd rather fit the best of what I can now and enjoy the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Polybronze are good, but neatrix on the spring plates will do just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) A bit more research shows the poly bronzes need greasing regularly too... Edited February 17, 2016 by reddevil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Unless you are after an uber precise track car then I don't really see any benefit in going fully bronzed. Surely a sensible selection of poly(e.g. superpro) and bronze where you need it on those A arms makes more sense. Plus who wants to be going to the 50's and greasing your car's nipples. best keep that to the bedroom at the weekends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaky Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Plus who wants to be going to the 50's and greasing your car's nipples. best keep that to the bedroom at the weekends. Spoil sport.............................................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 IMHO all poly bushes need regular greasing (why would superpro be any different to polybronze?). At least polybronze have the necessary nipples to make it easy. Mine get grease at service time - it takes 5 mins once on a ramp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Rock Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 When I rebuild the front suspension I'll be taking the poly bushes out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I have no rubber at all in the front of mine and love it. Polybronze on the A-arms and off set spherical bearings in the top mounts. No stiction and very light and precise steering. Bit clunky at times, but likely lack of suspension travel rather than bushings. $0.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 The sphericals (a-arms) are zero maintenance and the monoballs (rear trailing arms) have weather seals... So I'll think I'll stick with them. I'll sub the polybronze spring plate bushes for something a little less exotic and maintenance-heavy - will be much kinder on the wallet too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 I don't think I posted the assessment back from KW on these: I have the data back from the workshop for your 2 front unit. One top rebound adjuster has been damaged, very difficult to get an allen key in there, a dyno test was possible for this unit. Piston rod drops on the second unit, dyno test was not possible. Both units are stripped open, it is recommended a new piston rod is required to replace the damaged one, the other piston rod should be replaced because the piston rod comes with a new rebound valve attached, you will have a unit with a nice strong rebound and one that is worn if you do not replace. The second unit has a damaged inner tube at the bottom, the bump valve was not attached correctly, this is why the piston rod was dropping, a new inner tube is required, as a precaution the bump valve should also be replaced, and again if you do one the other should also be renewed. Not inexpensive... Not that far off from just buying 2 new units! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bernau Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 ...and here we all were telling you what a tip top car you had bought. Err, should be great when the teething problems are sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 It did have a very minor off at Curborough once, I didn't tell you that though. Think a new A arm and front wing was needed, I'm only saying this as it might help you track down a potential cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryH Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Wasn't that that why it needed a new bumper(s)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevil Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 That might explain why bilbo baggins said both front wings and all the glass came out came off "to check for corrosion" in winter 2013. Thought it was a strange thing to do. Doing it whilst crash damage is rectified makes more sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALEX P Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 That might explain why bilbo baggins said both front wings and all the glass came out came off "to check for corrosion" in winter 2013. Thought it was a strange thing to do. Doing it whilst crash damage is rectified makes more sense. It wasn't much of a crash, more of a bump into the grassy bank but as Nige said, it did do a little bit of suspension damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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