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SirPinkleton

Sir Pinkleton's 74 TT Project

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It’s about time I get started on my hot rod. This project idea started when I found out about the MegaSquirt, it looked interesting and I just want to have an excuse to use one. As 911s have long since been my favourite cars - and of the generations, my favourite has always been the wide body impact bumper - the choice of car was obvious.


So, the base car, well it’s a 1974 2.7 which (if I was being kind) I would describe as 'shabby', usually though, I refer to it as the ‘sh*t heap’ (although, with this profanity filter I'm going to need to think of a new name!). It was originally Sahara Beige with an interior in Blue/Black leatherette and Shetland and Twill - I don't know how it would have looked, but I can't imagine this colour combo was all that nice to look at! According to the CoA I got for it, it was built in Nov 73 and was optioned with a rear wiper, compressor and a sliding roof so I can only imagine this car was originally bought by a really sensible (read: boring) person. At some point in its life it has been crudely repainted in Guards Red and left to rot since 1988 (fun fact, its been idle longer than I've been alive). I only applied for the CoA out of curiosity though, and have no plans to restore any of those 'original features' at all.


I bought it pre-stripped, with many boxes of parts and without engine and gearbox. I wanted something that I wouldn't feel bad cutting great lumps out of and generally rendering it 'un-restorable'. Now with that fair warning out of the way, pictures of this heap as I bought it are below.


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Answers to the most common questions I have had on it:

  1. Yes, it is as butchered as it looks
  2. Yes, the entire tub is adorned with surface rust
  3. Is it straight? Good question, I guess I will find out
  4. No, I'm not taking it to the scrapyard
  5. Yes, I am slightly crazy
It pretty much went straight from there into dry storage and judging by the state of it, I think I was the first owner to ensure the storage was dry! The storage unit eventually filled up with replacement panels and other misc. parts until eventually it looked like this:


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Even if it was something I could just lock away and forget about, I couldn’t abide the mess, so an afternoon of tidying it all up had it looking like this:


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Short of the occasional visit to drop off a new part or something, it stayed like that for months. During this time I have sorted out a place to work on it, fixed up a couple of parts that should have been lower on the priority list and generally tried to ignore the scale of the problem I inflicted upon myself.


Well it’s time now and I need to hammer out a goal for the car and get on with it. This is what I have come up with so far:


- Sunroof delete

- Wide body (930 wide minimum, considering nearer 993 GT2 RS)

- Full custom cage and seam welding

- Coilover conversion

- Twin Turbo setup (originally going to base it on a 3.3, but recently considered starting with a 3.6)

- G50 gearbox - would prefer a 6 speed

- MegaSquirt based EFI conversion

-- MS3X

-- Sequential twin plug ignition

-- Sequential injection

-- Full barometric correction

-- Electronic boost control

-- Water / Meth injection

-- Flex Fuel capable


I would prefer the oil tank to be in front of the rear wheel as well, so currently looking at shoe-horning in a 964 or 993 setup. I also want the interior to be somewhat stripped, but still comfortable as I don't want to go to all this effort and end up with a car I would rather not use for longer journeys. Brakes aren't mentioned in that list because I am undecided whether I want 15 or 16" wheels, but they will essentially be the biggest I can fit without sacrificing balance.


I have previously been asked about my power goals for this thing; however that’s not something I have given much thought. If I was to put a number on it, I would be happy with 500s at the wheels, but I am more than happy to just wait and see what comes of it.


Anyway, the plan is rough, but refining it is lower priority right now as this heap is in no fit state to receive any shiny bits anyway :mad jg:


I hope to keep plodding along with it bit by bit. I want to do as much as I can myself, so I expect this will be one hell of a learning experience and consequently it isn't going to be fastest build on the board by any means.


It can only get better from here... right?




I was originally going to post this in Gruppe IB as its probably more appropriate there, but I noticed I don't have permission to start a topic there :(


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This is no small undertaking Sir P! Good luck with the project and looking forward to pictures as it progresses.

 

Regards,

David.

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This certainly is a project - look forward to the updates!

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Loving the plan and the approach. Keep us posted - and don't forget pictures!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi and thanks for sharing the project

 

One point you might bear in mind is that out of all the IB cars the 74 probably has the most value to a collector - as they were effectively a 73RS with an early impact bumper body. As RS prices have gone stratospheric it's pulled 74 prices up with them

 

have a look at Ferryman's 74 thread on DDK http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43401

 

Anyone who knows me knows I'm all for hotrodding (or Horrid ding as my auto correct calls it) as I drive one every day, so please don't think I'm one of the originality fetishists. However you might have far more value in your current project than you realize - especially if you still have the original engine & box (Edit - just seen you haven't got those) - it might be more economic to sell it on as is, and buy a late 70s/80s project - especially in view of the route you're planning to take (which sounds like great fun BTW)

 

Bottom line is it's your car - but if you could flog it for the cost of a running 80s car that would be a step forward, no?

 

Cheers

 

Mark

Edited by sladey

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It's a 911s 2.7 on cis Mark I think. The narrow body one that doesn't use the RS mfi engine.

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Could be maybe?

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Either way go for it and put loads of pictures up.

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Hi and thanks for sharing the project

 

One point you might bear in mind is that out of all the IB cars the 74 probably has the most value to a collector - as they were effectively a 73RS with an early impact bumper body. As RS prices have gone stratospheric it's pulled 74 prices up with them

 

have a look at Ferryman's 74 thread on DDK http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43401

 

Anyone who knows me knows I'm all for hotrodding (or Horrid ding as my auto correct calls it) as I drive one every day, so please don't think I'm one of the originality fetishists. However you might have far more value in your current project than you realize - especially if you still have the original engine & box (Edit - just seen you haven't got those) - it might be more economic to sell it on as is, and buy a late 70s/80s project - especially in view of the route you're planning to take (which sounds like great fun BTW)

 

Bottom line is it's your car - but if you could flog it for the cost of a running 80s car that would be a step forward, no?

 

Cheers

 

Mark

 

 

It's a 911s 2.7 on cis Mark I think. The narrow body one that doesn't use the RS mfi engine.

 

I appreciate the heads up Mark and I hadn't seen that thread so I will definitely be checking it out. Nige is half right however, pretty sure it was a cis lump, don't think it was an S though, just a 2.7. It wouldn't bother me anyway, I am more than happy to ignore values and get on with it. Without the engine and box, its just any old shell anyway. As I catch you guys up to its current place, you will see how its in such a sorry state, Its probably not interesting to even the craziest collector.

 

I went out of my way to find a crusty pre-stripped forgotten project and I have grown quite attached to it. I love to hate it at the moment!

 

There is going to be a lot of pictures guys, don't you worry about that.

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The 's' monicker on the early IB 2.7 doesn't denote anything special (like for example a pre IB 2.4s) so it prolly was a 2.7s. Who cares about that anyways, that identity was far back in the shells past. You have a blank canvas with no hang ups about originality preservation to think about so the world is your oyster! Look forward to updates. :signs85:

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prolly

OK Les, dabbling on the wet dark side is one thing, but going all transatlantic youthy on us is quite another matter!!!

 

 

Mark

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Pinky,

 

Good luck on your mission, these sorts of threads really are the best. As said above we like photos!

 

Cheers

 

Nathan

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While the shell was in storage, I had good intentions of sorting through the boxes of parts that came along with it. However, that didn't really happen, every time I looked at it I couldn't muster the determination to get on with it... there was just so much to go through. When I moved the shell to its current home in my garage, I took the chance to throw away parts that I deemed too far gone to repair or sell. This was a good decision, as it cut down on the amount of junk I had to transport and store by at least 20%! Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of these casualties and as this is my first 911, I couldn't really tell what some of that stuff was at the time so no doubt I will have tossed something out I shouldn't have!.

Examples of the stuff I have taken to the recycling center / skip / dump include badly corroded brake discs, every single loose fastener, heat exchangers (rust poured out of the primaries when tilted!), original muffler and spring plate covers that were barely recognizable among many many other things. The plastic bottles were also really brittle - I dropped the brake fluid reservoir and it shattered - so every plastic tank / bottle was thrown out. This caused a bit of a stir when the 'resident dump guy' (you know the one, that one guy who is always there and way too friendly) recognised some of the parts as being from a Porsche and ran over shouting at me to stop throwing it all away! Turned out he loves classic 911s and hoped to own one someday and as I was leaving I could see him 'liberating' some of the things I had thrown out. :D
I only recently threw away some of the textiles like the carpets (looked like the shell housed a multitude of rodents at some point) and the super crusty headliners that you could tear as if it was paper. Unfortunately, even though I have thinned down the piles of junk I still haven't actually gone through all the boxes to catalog what I have. Maybe one day...
Remember in the first post I said this...

 



 

Short of the occasional visit to drop off a new part or something, it stayed like that for months. During this time I have sorted out a place to work on it, fixed up a couple of parts that should have been lower on the priority list and generally tried to ignore the scale of the problem I inflicted upon myself.

 

Well, while it was in storage I decided I really wanted to get on with the project in at least a small way, so I went and retrieved the steering rack to rebuild. In my mind, this was important, but rest assured that both my friends and family have already pointed out I had more pressing tasks than this! I wasn't deterred though, even though this was actually the first time I had ever seen a steering rack up close so I didn't really know what to look for. It did turn fairly freely by hand though so I was pretty happy with it.
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Not knowing how something works or goes together as never stopped me before, and this was no exception. Taking it apart was relatively easy and before too long I had it stripped down to most of the component parts.
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I was fairly pleased with myself after this success until I noticed a buch of loose needle roller bearings resting in the folds of the sheet I had done the disassembly on. At the time I had no idea where they were from, so I gathered up all I could see, bagged them and took a picture for identifying later.
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It turns out the outer race of the upper pinion bearing was still present in the rack and upon knocking the pinion shaft out, the rollers had fallen out and gone everywhere unbeknownst to me. I later knocked the race out with a 1/4" extension and a BFH.
It took bloody ages to clean up the rack as there was quite a lot of grease on the inside (a good thing I guess) and a lot of corrosion / blooming on the rack body that I wanted to remove. I had no idea how to clean any of this stuff and I was reluctant to go out and buy anything, so after exhausting all the household cleaners I had on hand (Cilit Bang grease remover being the only real success) I set about removing corrosion with dremel mounted wire wheels. I did fairly well with that method and eventually had it as clean as I was likely to get it.
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Cleaning up all the other parts was far simpler. I threw every single fastener away in favour of using new ones, cleaned the grease off all the parts, disassembled the pinion shaft and even micropolished the teeth on both the rack and pinion with rising grades of paper (ended on 3000 grit).
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When the cleaning was finished, I inspected the condition of all the important parts and as far as I could tell it was all in good order. Looking at the wear on the gears and the condition of all the grease I removed, I would be surprised if this rack had seen that much action. I ordered all the miscellaneous parts I needed to rebuild the rack from Rose Passion (except the bearings, I bought those from a bearing supplier using the standardised part numbers. The trick there is to buy a quality brand like Koyo or SKF and then you can't really go wrong) and a set of Lemforder turbo tie rods and ends.
IMG_20150514_201426_zpsqosjadcc.jpgIMG_20150424_193739_zpspkvjjq7b.jpg
I gave the rack body, caps and steering shafts (lower and intermediate) a lick of paint in an attempt to keep everything looking fresh and prevent me ever having to clean them up like this again. Plus, I like how the finished product ended up and that's enough of a reason for me!
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Yes, that is a broom padded with masking tape holding the rack for painting - worked perfectly allowing me to rotate it while spraying and preventing any over-spray on the inside. I have since used this method to paint all kinds of cylindrical things!

 

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Putting it all together was a simple affair and didn't take very long. The only real issue I had was M12 washers didn't quite fit over the splines on the pinion shaft, this was easily rectified with some careful grinding of the washer's inner bore. A couple of months had passed between dis-assembly and re-assembly so I almost forgot to put the circlip back onto the end of the pinion after bashing on the new lower bearing! I did a dry run to make sure everything mated up properly before liberally lubricating everything with a moly based grease and sealing it up. I was pretty chuffed with the end result - I can tell you. In fact I still am every time I see it. :cool:


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One alteration I will likely make is to replace the big cable ties I used to secure the tie rod boots with stainless locking wire or something as I get the feeling these cable ties might wear through the rubber quickly when in use.




There are 2 elements of the rack I haven't touched on yet that are worth mentioning, that rubber dampener between the lower steering shaft and the rack and the rubber bush + bearing that sits on the same lower steering shaft. I did refurbish / modify those in a way that's probably worth highlighting.


I noticed you can buy solid replacements for the dampener, but I am wary of both the point and the price of those aluminium pieces. That said however, with the bolt collars out of it was a very malleable rubber piece that I could see potential for improvement in. As such, I roughed up the interior surfaces of the dampener where the bolt collars go, squeezed in significant amounts of black RTV and forced the collars into their homes. After the RTV had dried and I cleaned up the excess I was left with a much much firmer piece that I hope will deform less than the original unit and still dampen some of the extra noise and vibration I suspect you would see with a solid unit.


Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of this - not sure how that happened!


Lastly, that bushing / bearing thing on the lower shaft was in decent shape, but I had already decided to replace all the bearings. When I found the part number though, I had a bit of sticker shock at the quoted price. Seeing as I was planning to replace it anyway, I thought I would dis-assemble the piece to see what I was getting for the money. It turns out that there is a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that has a couple of wiper seals and a standard 1712 needle bearing inside. This was all I needed to know to decide to refurbish my own piece, so I simply re-assembled the whole unit with a fresh bearing, liberally greased it up and called it a day.


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When all that was done I wrapped the whole rack in clingfilm and that's how its sat for months now. I know it was too early to be worrying about steering, but I was happy. It's still one completely refurbished part.


Now that its been a few months though... I am going to end up replacing the shiny new tie rod ends with rose jointed ones for bump steer correction at some point and those Quaife machined quicker ratio rack and pinion sets are mighty tempting...




Apologies for the length of time it took to post this update, I had trouble finding the time to review the nearly 130 photos I have that are applicable to this post! There are many many more photos available if you click through to the Photobucket album. Taking too many photos is a bad habit of mine that appears incompatible with this board. I will have to try and post little and often instead I think!

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I did learn a few things from refurbishing the rack.

  1. Not having a press is awkward, the poor vice and socket extensions have never been so abused - I will have to get a press to make similar tasks easier in future
  2. I want a blasting cabinet - I will likely build my own one later this year
  3. Bearings are bearings, no need to spend the extra on 'Porsche' ones

In case any of you guys want to know what bearings I used, they are below:

  • Lower Pinion bearing: Koyo 6202 2RS (stock one is open, I used a sealed one)
  • Upper Pinion bearing: SKF HK1712
  • Rubber bush bearing: SKF HK1712

I paid just over a tenner for those I think, and while I was at it I got bearings for the upper column housing too. That has been in pieces since the rack was taken apart, but as of today, I have neglected to put it back together. Maybe I should get on that...

 

I also noticed I forgot to post the link to the full Photobucket Album - I uploaded 79 images of the rack build alone! http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/sirpinkleton911/library/Hot%20Rod/911%20Steering%20Rack

 

I promise to try and take less pictures in future! :D

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Good post and nice work on the rack. I'm currently making a press using a bottle jack and big steel.

 

Using this guy's helpful guide as a starting point

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-10-Ton-Hydraulic-Press/step2/Parts-and-Tools/

 

And then using this guy's guide for inverting the bottle jack.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0nlSp21KZJ8

 

Not a two minute job though - so you might be better off buying one and spending your time on the car

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Nice work, great pics and write up. Just what we like.

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Good write up, spot on. Nothing like a bit of spannering is there? Once you start chipping away at these things it feels great. Keep it up!

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Well done and congratulations on an interesting post, keep up the momentum!

Regards,

David.

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Thanks for the encouragement guys. I haven't had as much time as I would like to work on it recently, but I have an update or two in the wings to catch you guys up to my current position.

 

Good post and nice work on the rack. I'm currently making a press using a bottle jack and big steel.

Using this guy's helpful guide as a starting point

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-10-Ton-Hydraulic-Press/step2/Parts-and-Tools/

And then using this guy's guide for inverting the bottle jack.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0nlSp21KZJ8

Not a two minute job though - so you might be better off buying one and spending your time on the car

 

Those are some nice links, thanks for that. I always prefer to build something instead of buying it if possible, so I will be giving that some serious consideration. I don't have any suitable stock on hand for building that, but I will be buying in some heavy duty material soon to make a chassis jig - maybe there will be enough left overs. We'll see :D

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I woke up this morning and realised I haven't even looked at the car for almost 2 months! To combat my apparent laziness and my tendency to neglect my own project in favour of helping others - I have set a goal to have this car rust free by the end of the year. I know, that's not a particularly exciting goal, but its still a hell of a job. This post (and the next few) aren't really going to contain any progress, we are just going to have a look at what I bought. I was expecting it to be fairly bad and I wasn't wrong.

 

I decided to start at the back, as apart from the crossmember itself, it looked ok.

 

IMG_20160312_132444_zps3p7a91kq.jpg

 

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This is my first 911, so I am not 100% sure what things are supposed to look like, but I am pretty sure I'm missing the back panel the reflector mounts to. This is only one of many panels that I believe have been removed from this car sometime in its life. The back is only ok at a glance though, a closer look reveals quite a bit of rust in and around the crevices and seams. As well as some pretty tragic looking bumper mounts and quite a bad parcel shelf (although I'm not too concerned about that one, there likely won't be much original metal left on that panel anyway).

 

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The worst panel at the back is the inner passenger side arch though, not just surface rust or pitting on that one, a few actual holes to deal with.

 

IMG_20160312_132409_zps2nuis7a0.jpg

 

My 'favourite' problem back here though... the passenger side heater / flapper box thing (I think anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong) is actually... 'present'.

 

IMG_20160312_132230_zps6alpb3js.jpg

 

There are more problems back here, but the worst is on the passenger side. It also looks like it has 'benefited' from previous patch repair work at some point - this is a theme that carries on across the entire vehicle. Someone at some point has had a crack at getting it roadworthy. I'm in no position to judge if their work is any good as my welding experience is limited to about 30 minutes of playing around, but I am repeatedly disappointed by the unfinished nature of the welds. None of it has been ground back and in some places the welds are porous or just generally have poor penetration.

 

I was going to continue posting pictures of other parts of the car, but I will do that throughout the rest of the week as I remember coming up against a pictures per post limit last time I posted. Honestly, it has nothing to do with me needing to tidy up the garage in order to get the pictures... nope, nothing at all.

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Continuing on with the tour of the shell, we have the interior. The back seat area looks to be in remarkably good condition (which is a bit of a shame really, as I don't forsee much of that remaining if I choose to go with a 6 speed in the end). It does look like a previous owner was going to have a go cutting what I guess was going to be speaker holes in the back panel. I really don't like the drill holes in a rough circle method, so seeing that abandoned attempt kind of annoys me!

 

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I have not hoovered the shell out since I have bought it, so that drill bit and allen key in back seat would have belonged to a previous owner. You can see that the inside passenger wall is covered in surface rust just like the rest of it. I did quickly run a grinder over the passenger seat belt mount as the surface rust was especially bad at that point - clean metal underneath though with no real pitting.

 

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I don't have any pictures of the drivers side, but its significantly less rusty - in fact, that's pretty much the experience across the entire shell. For some reason the passenger side has fared significantly worse!

A previous owner has also cut the passenger side floor edge out and looks like they were going to do the same with the drivers side, but once again abandoned the job. The floor would bother me less if drivers side edge had been taken too... I'm itching to just cut the whole thing out at this point. Pretty sure it would look better and less daunting with no floor. The footwell areas are the only parts of the floor that are actually rusty. They aren't too bad though. What I assume would be the accelerator pedal mount is in dire need of replacing and there are a few rust holes to deal with.

 

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I had a look and a new floor isn't as pricey as I expected, going to mull over whether the cost of it would be would be worth it over stripping this one. There are very few things I hate doing, but grinding off rust and underseal are on that list... On the bright side, the bulkhead is solid!

 

IMG_20160505_205620_zpsykks2ktb.jpg

 

I really like the bulkhead - its like a negative of the finished interior. In the next post we move on to the front...

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The front is my main point of concern even though at first glance it looks ok.

 

IMG_20160505_210433_zps8e4qczbf.jpg

 

In front of the fuel tank it looks as if a panel is missing. I will need to check out some exploded diagrams to figure out what panel it is, but again not terrible. A distinct lack of the dreaded rust is always good to see.

 

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There are a few small patches of filler visible in front of the suspension towers, but that alone isn't too concerning. Its always been fairly obvious that the car has had a new front at some point - I mean the primer is a dead giveaway. I had hoped the front replacement job had been done by someone competent, but I have been uncovering signs that suggest otherwise.

 

I have deliberately not been showing pictures of the exterior of the shell yet; I'm saving that for last because I got over-zealous and already spent hours and hours stripping the rust and underseal off with a wire wheel before I took any pictures of its original state :(

 

I do however have this picture (which I really don't like). Its not a good picture because it was only intended to be a view into the garage. You can see (sort of...) that there is a clear divide between the original shell and the replacement front. I had always hoped that beneath that filler would be a near seamless join and they just hadn't got around to rubbing back the initial filler job.

 

IMG_20160207_203957_zpsyxlhjitu.jpg

 

Remove the fuel tank though...

 

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That picture is out of focus, but I blame that on my disappointment at the inside view of the weld job. Lets get a closer look at the two biggest problems...

 

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IMG_20160505_210732_zpskngyqfcj.jpg

 

Now I realise that its just a few gaps that could easily be fixed with a couple of filler plates. That's not really the point though, when I look at that I do not get the impression that the repairer truly cared about his/her work. Why slap filler on before the job is done? The more I thought about that,the more I wondered what other corners were cut or processes overlooked during the transplant? The front most A Arm pickups are part of this new front. Was this work done on a jig? Were accurate measurements taken prior to welding on the front? I don't trust it at all.

 

I'm going to break continuity now, so I can show you more of this welding job. More signs that point to a general lack of care with such a major replacement.

 

This is the drivers side outer seam:

 

IMG_20160505_230643_zpsc95faoh3.jpg

 

and the drivers side from underneath:

 

IMG_20160505_230548_zpsnvxxu839.jpg

 

Now I'm no expert, but those tack welds look horrible to me. In addition to that (and ignoring the huge hole and horrible overlap joint), why was filler applied before it was even welded together?

 

The passenger side is better, but still not fully welded and the welds look to be of questionable quality again:

 

IMG_20160505_230602_zpsp2lpicly.jpg

 

 

 

This discovery left me a bit deflated, something that wasn't helped when I grabbed my favourite pointy poking tool and jabbed the drivers side steering rack mount (I think thats what it is anyway) with it:

 

IMG_20160504_233211_zpsuhqu3mei.jpg.

 

I didn't even need to poke the passenger side...

 

IMG_20160504_233248_zpsby6ediat.jpg

 

Its clearly not looking good up front. Repairing all of this is going to be a huge effort and I'm not prepared to go through all of that only to find out the front isn't on straight. In order to this project worthwhile I need to do it properly, and this discovery means that I now need to put this thing on a jig.

 

Problem is, Celette's are very expensive and massive. I have neither the money nor the space to store and use one. That leaves me with only 1 option if I'm going to use this shell. I need to make a jig.

 

But before that there is still more shell to explore!

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