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Posted

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Do not worry, they will not be a permanent feature. I want trumpets but I have yet to find any that fit the way I want them to. Also I don't see the point of trumpets and then covering them up with filters. I will probably have some made but it will have to wait until everything else is done to make sure they are right.

Posted

Boss on.

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If anyone needs a boss for doing the same I have a spare mild steel one which was sent to me in error.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Gratuitous picture of ECU and a huge bundle of wires! Most of these aren't needed as far as I can tell.....

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Trigger wheel, more wires for loom and another connector for the VR sensor.

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I'm almost there with parts now. Still need plug leads.

I'm resisting the temptation to get the pulley off. Must wait until after the summer.....<_<

Posted

I had my leads custom made to my specific lengths with EDIS connectors one end and Porsche plug connectors the other by these guys;

http://www.fla-manufacturing.com/

Great service and considerably cheaper than a new set of BERU leads.

My old pulley is somewhere in my workshop if I can find it. Yours for £25 posted if you want to have a play, getting the toothed wheel to fit. I cheated and bought the Clewitt one. Lighter too! Every rotating gram counts.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally got the pulley and trigger wheel back from the machine shop. This needed to be accurately done with no run out for obvious reasons and I didn't have the right tools for the job.

All told £105, £30 for the pulley, £25 for the wheel and £50 for the machine shop. A lot but half the price of the GSF with taxes.

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi Phil.

Any update on this project, have you got the TB'S fitted' Iam interested as I have a similar project nearly completed.

Mike

 

 

Posted

Sadly another project overtook my life for the past few months. I "plan" to get the pulley swapped this week, hopefully......

Do you have a thread on yours anywhere?

Posted

Well the recent enquiry spurred me into some action.

I thought I would need to drop the engine a little to access the pulley bolt but it occurred to me a ring spanner might do the job without having to.

So I made a brace to stop the pulley turning and found a suitable deep neck ring spanner. Simply cut a piece of study steel to shape and welded two bolts to line up with the holes in the pulley.

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An extra length of steel tube was needed on the spanner and the bolt came free :ani_clapping:

 

Posted (edited)

Then I found that my replacement pulley did not have the locating lug! A suitable piece of steel bar found and a lug was created. Then I found the replacement pulley was a different size (smaller)! This meant re-tensioning the belt. The old belt would not tighten! A new belt in my tool roll seemed to tight.

An emergency call into Matthew at Type911 for advice and reassurance was needed. Thanks Mate ;)

So, eventually fitted and running.

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It's a tight fit but a fit.

Next to fashion a bracket for the VR sensor.

Edited by Phill
Posted

Hi Phil. 

In answer no I do not have a thread on mine, never thought about it. I may try to do one sometime, a write up when finished.. Some of my spec is:

My crank sensor is a 964 type and I have a flywheel 60-2 from Patrick Motorsport so is different to what you have done. 

For ignition I and going direct coil driven from the Megasquirt, not EDIS 

For the Injection Triumph 955i Units on home made manifolds, and for the throttle I am also using the 964 Cable from the front pedals, and have a wheel pivot mounted to the engine oil breather and twin cables to the t-bodies, what are you going to do. Wheel pivot care of Colin Belton.

ECU and the Innovate are mounted under the passenger seat on an alloy plate (just a precaution heat sink) I divided the harness into about five sections and used weather pack connectors in the engine compartment (easy to disconnect)

My biggest issue will be tuning both Ignition and Injection at the same time, as this is a full engine rebuild (2.7 RS basic spec) and I did not have a dizzy or fuel system available. I have used an MBE system in the past so not to worried but it will be a bit of a challenge. Just need to get a good basic Ignition Map for the RS spec sorted to start with then tune from there.

Will follow your thread with interest

 

Mike

 

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Some more progress today.

Trigger wheel sensor mounting. The available mounts all seem to be for where the trigger wheel is on the rear of the pulley and use the dizzy hole to mount. Neither is any good to me as my trigger wheel is on the front of the pulley and I want to keep my dizzy until everything is set us properly. 

So I fabbed a bracket to mount the sensor on. To get the sensor in place meant trimming the engine mount for clearance. Getting all of this lined up and made has taken me the best part of 7 hours :o

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It doesn't look straight in the pics but it is.

It is very tight in there. In fact it occurred to me that if I need to change my belt I now have to remove the crank pulley :cry: Still I've only changed it once in 12 years so no biggie :lol:

Next I want to get my ECU mounted under the passenger seat but I had to send my loom back as it had been soldered badly and wouldn't plug in.

Posted

:signs118:

Looking good.

47 minutes ago, Phill said:

It is very tight in there. In fact it occurred to me that if I need to change my belt I now have to remove the crank pulley 

Keep an eye out for a 3.2 engine mount, they are interchangeable with the SC one (after moving one stud) and have more room around the crank pulley.

Here is a comparison picture I pinched from somewhere...

EngineMount911a1119918490.jpg.a3bec9c2fa6a1826515881936dfcefd3.jpg

 

Mark

Posted

Hi Phil.

Looking good, thought I would send a couple of pics of my ECU mounting. 

1) Mounting plate I made for the ECU and Innovate, 2: ECU in position, 3: Fully wired.

All my wiring is done with a bunch of separate harnesses to make it easy to route and trouble shoot if ncessary

Thought you might be interested

Mike

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Posted

Thanks Mike, always interested.

Where did you route the wires into the engine bay. Also did you go forward to the fuses under the bonnet to wire the live and earth for the ECU. Did you use the existing fuel pump and ignition relays or something else?

Posted

Hi Phil.

A few pics and some answers on what I have done.

Picture of my wiring, diagram made from EFI Extra ones I put this together to help installation and trouble shooting. I have two relays in the front compartment, the Durite ones with Diode protection, these feed 1) ECU, Coil Pack and Injectors, and 2) Fuel Pump and Wideband. There are two fuses in the front 3Amp for the ECU and 25Amp for the fuel pump. and in the Engine compartment I have four fuses 2 at 5Amp for each Injector bank, a 10Amp for the Coil pack and a 5Amp for the Wideband. Hope this helps. All my grounds for EFI are to the main ground in the engine compartment which I also connected with a brass bar to a second ground for the original grounds. 5a2d4a47d99ea_MSDiagramMikesFinalOne.thumb.jpg.214855f229bb6ae15ef8645bd7da2f7d.jpgDSCF1650.thumb.JPG.6cd1f5c6fda4febd3ed7c035207fe27b.JPGDSCF1849.thumb.JPG.0983cc6799e46f2e4bedeb8d00963acf.JPG

As for routing see the pics attached, as I said I ran a number of small harnesses for ease. Pics are before the engine was installed

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Hope these are some interest

MikeS

Posted

Great stuff Mike, thank you. 

Did you put your own fuse boards together? They look very neat and tidy.

Posted

Hi Phil. Yes all my own work. I believe the secret to good electrics is tidy installations. Thanks for the complement

MikeS

 

Posted

ECU mount made and ready to install. Just got to do the brave bit and drill holes in the floor.......:unsure:

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I will mount it on some rubber for anti vibration I think.

Posted

Hi Phil. Looks similar to what I have, great minds ect.  All I have is a couple of rubber seals under the two setscrews holding mine to the floor. Not sure if this was necessary.

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have made some more progress but first of all a HUGE thank you to MikeS911 for all his ongoing help, advice and patience.

Most, if not all of the wiring is in place now. ECU and Lambda controller under the pax seat. I have run wiring front and back. 

Four holes drilled and grommeted in the rear firewall. Here you can also see the busbar for the sensor earths.

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Through the holes runs the sensor, injector, sensor earth, VR sensor and coil pack wires. The grey box you see is my reversing sensors which will be moving.

Convenient hole found and enlarged for forward running wires.

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I have tried to keep as much wiring and fusing under the bonnet.

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When you get down to it there is surprisingly little space to put stuff. Above is the relay and fuses for all the lives which then run back to the engine bay. The relay is connected to the battery and I spurred off fuse 12 for the start and run live.

The ECU earths are fixed nearby. The Lambda and relay earth fixed separately at the back of the new fuse box.

Posted (edited)

I have put the coil pack next to the dizzy for the time being so I can use the existing plug leads. 

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It's mounted on a bit of a Heath Robinson bracket attached to the old air injection studs at the moment but the whole lot will move to the rear of the bay once the CIS comes out. I am waiting on some plug lead adapters before I can connect the leads. I also need a capacitor in the live cable.

Edited by Phill
Posted

VR sensor connected.

New spark plugs ready to go in tomorrow if the weather behaves.

For some reason IB has stopped uploading pictures. Will try again later. 

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