Jump to content

Let's Take a Brake


09mageec

Recommended Posts

So, the final bits for my big Brake overhaul finally got delivered today...

4 Discs
4 corners of Pads
New steel braided Brake Lines
New Pad mounting hardware (Retaining Pins, Securing Clips, Springs)
Caliper Rebuild Kit all round (Dust Boot, Piston Seal Ring, etc.)
Fresh Fluid

In case some weren't aware, the car sat for 4 years prior to getting into my driveway.. We all know what Brake fluid does to exposed metal, especially stagnant Brake fluid. My hopes are that the Caliper Pistons/Bore aren't to badly corroded, as I am trying to accomplish this job without  having to split the calipers if possible - I've read finding the "Ribe" style Fasteners these days is rarer than spotting a Unicorn, and that they strip quite easily..

I was hoping some of you with experience or ideas about this Job would chime in. What order would you do the work in? Have any tips!? Any help is greatly appreciated!


-Cam

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cam

 

just an FYI, don't assume the old flexi hoses will come apart easily and the ferrules on the hard lines will most likely be stuck fast on the copper pipes meaning you will end up twisting them. Best to at least get replacement pipes from flexi to caliper or have a means to knock up new ones. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove the calipers from the car.

Blow the pistons out with compressed air.

Check bore for damage / cracks.

Clean and repaint if required.

Remove discs.

Remove old and re-fit new brake lines.

Fit new discs.

Build calipes up on bench, lubricate seals and pistons with brake assembly grease (or brake fluid if unpainted).

Fit pads with a light coating of copper slip on back, sides and retaining clips / pins.

Refit calipers (new bolts recommended) use correct torque.

Bleed with fresh fluid starting at the furthest point from the master cylinder (right rear on a LHD car).

Check for leaks and pedal feel. 

Shame you are not in the UK I have a complete spare SC braking system built up with DS2500 pads. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Wingnonut said:

Cam

 

just an FYI, don't assume the old flexi hoses will come apart easily and the ferrules on the hard lines will most likely be stuck fast on the copper pipes meaning you will end up twisting them. Best to at least get replacement pipes from flexi to caliper or have a means to knock up new ones. 

 

A good possibility to keep in mind, thank you! We'll see what happens when I start to get my hands dirty.

 

1 hour ago, Leicestershire said:

Refit calipers (new bolts recommended) use correct torque.

Shame you are not in the UK I have a complete spare SC braking system built up with DS2500 pads. 

 

 

 

I'll have to snag some new bolts then as well! Anti-seize on those?

I may be relocating to Cumbria next year (fingers crossed). If so, you guys will have to show me what the Porsche community is like over the lake! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Leistershire suggested replacing the bolts rather than me (not that I ever have as they aren't stretch bolts or anything flash I don't believe) but these are them. 

http://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/607

M12 x 1.5 x 35 so any that size will do I guess. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do not split the calipers, you wont find a seal inside that you can replace!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Type911 said:

Do not split the calipers, you wont find a seal inside that you can replace!

Avoiding it at all costs!

All, like I said, I'm hoping that the pistons and bores aren't terribly corroded. However, if they are, I hear it's very difficult to get the pistons out, even with compressed air, and that you may need to keep the caliper hooked up to the braking system, take the pads out, and use the brake pedal to free the pistons from the bore. 

Thats seems pretty extreme, but has anyone had an issue with the compressed air/c-clamp method? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had success removing pistons using the grease gun method on my 356 - if you are lucky, removing the nozzle from the grease gun leaves a male thread that screws into the bleed nipple port in the caliper. Then just squeeze in the grease, and watch the piston move up and out - it is all very controlled, and only slightly messy!

Better than launching a piston across the garage at 100mph also..

Edited by Johnny Graham
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Johnny Graham said:

I had success removing pistons using the grease gun method on my 356 - if you are lucky, removing the nozzle from the grease gun leaves a male thread that screws into the bleed nipple port in the caliper. Then just squeeze in the grease, and watch the piston move up and out - it is all very controlled, and only slightly messy!

Better than launching a piston across the garage at 100mph also..

Thanks for the tip.. We'll see how it goes.

-Cam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...