Rocketcar Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 I need to take a rear disc off to get access to the shoes, something is amiss as I can't get the adjustment. This of course means removing the calliper. Do you have to disconnect the brake line to do this as there is a solid hose up to the calliper from the arm or can it be carefully manoeuvred with it still attached? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Careful does it and you should get away without removing or damaging the hardline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 5 minutes ago, Nige said: Careful does it and you should get away without removing or damaging the hardline. Thanks! Will give it a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Hit a wall already. How do you get to the lower 19mm calliper bolt as a socket won't fit. Do you use a 19mm ring spanner or offset ring spanner? Prefer plenty of leverage on calliper bolts.. Typically lost my 19mm ring spanner so nothing is going to happen tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris T Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Agree, be careful. Next time I'm going to replace the hard line with a flexi. Already done it on the front and life is easier....... Porsche used as much hard line as possible to reduce pedal sponginess, but race cars have flexi lines throughout, so why not? Perhaps braided flexi hoses were not available in 1980 something. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Type911 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 A 19mm socket will fit, just needs to be a slim one, 19mm ring should work too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Thanks. My 19mm socket is too long. Will grab a new 19mm ring spanner today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proporsche Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 all i`ve ever used is these tools..19mm socket 1/2 ratchet...inch and s wrench ... Ivan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Maybe a bit of this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 ha ha. Used an S wrench and it worked a treat - lower bolt removed! Main thing I wanted to avoid was the dreaded: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 If in doubt us a 6 point socket/wrench. You only need the common sizes really, 10, 13, 17, 19mm. Oddly a Volvo we had a couple of years ago had all even number sizes, which was a pain in the ass. I have less even number tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesworth Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 5 hours ago, Nige said: Maybe a bit of this: That moustache really suits you, Nige. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 The ladies love it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 4 hours ago, Nige said: The ladies love it Thanks for all the help everyone! Really appreciated Managed to get the shoes no problem without disconnecting the solid brake line. Car had failed the MOT on the handbrake. Minor issue thankfully, the little plate that sits between the shoes towards the front of the car was not located properly. Super powerful handbrake now so back for a retest in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proporsche Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 when you adjust the hand brake.First you adjust the cable with those 2 17mm nuts.To the point it is grabbing just a little bit.Then you do the adjustment trough the brake rotor hole.Make sure it is not catching to mush otherwise you will burn the shoes.It has to have on hand brake handle 3-4 clicks..no more Ivan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcar Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Ok thanks Ivan. I actually already did it in a different order already. Slacked off the 17mm nuts and then wound up the shoe adjustors. Balanced the 2 brake cables looking through the 2 holes by the handbrake and locked up the 17mm. Finally tightened and loosened the shoe adjustors several times to get a feel of how much it slacked off and how it affected the handbrake handle. Ended up backing off around 4 clicks. On the handbrake handle I now have 4 clicks to achieve a good hold. Is this wrong? Passed the MOT :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proporsche Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 (edited) hi those clicks are ok..the reason you do the cable first is so you do not cook the brake shoes..after the cables have almost no play then you do the inside shoes adjustment..but but if you have the wheel spinning it sounds ok.$ clicks perfect...usually when i see 911 it has a "dentist adjustment"-my nick name for handbrake handle all the way up so you can knock your teeth out while pulling on it.....i can tell the mechanics did never pay attention to this car or then do not know how to ... Ivan oh yaa congrats on passing the mot Edited June 25, 2017 by proporsche Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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