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Painting Fuchs


RichD1

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3 hours ago, ALEX P said:

I'm getting images of Ferris Bueller's day off!

You're a braver man than me with that polishing technique. They do look very good though.

How bad is it? It's only the inside of the wheel so brake dust & road muck will fill up what the paint doesn't.

I didn't think it was dangerous at all. My wife saw me doing it and she is one of the most cautious person I know! The car is on a scissor lift with all four wheels off and is very secure and I can get the hub up at a good working height sat on a st00l. In 3rd the NSR wheel is rotating at about 300 to 400 rpm and with the drill rotating in the opposite direction it didn't throw the drill off once even when I applied quite a bit of pressure with the coarse cut mop. I did do a bit of hand sanding with wet and dry and a scotchbrite pad but as long as your fingers were pointing with the rotation of the wheel not against again there is little or no danger of catching a finger.

The corrosion is quite bad in several places. Biggest one is about 8mm by 4mm and about 2mm deep. I want to fill them so that the wheel will stay cleaner and be easier to clean.   

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18 hours ago, RichD1 said:

Any advice on metal filler for the wheels guys??

Rich

There are many allow wheel fillers available on fleabuy. I used one that looked like aluminium called BodyAlu, a polyester paste.  Worked well on my daughters Polo wheels.

Peter

Edited by PeterK
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I've read some good reviews and a YouTube vid about Big Boy metal filler and it's available at my local Toolstation at a very good price. Think I will give that a go as one review said it contained particles of aluminium and it was good for areas of vibration and heat variances.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Story update; I had them wet painted in 2K but the finish has come out too glossy even though I gave them a new centre cap to match to. The Porsche OE cap does seem quite matt though so I tried some of my satin black which I had on the shelf and it was a tad more glossy than the OE cap but considerably less glossy than the finish in 2K.

I don't think the finish is not that good anyway so I've decided to give them some costs of satin black myself having seen the results you guys have achieved, probably should have done this from the start in hindsight.

My questions now are; do you spray with the wheel laid on the ground or stood up? I ask because I'm concerned about splatter from the nozzle which ocurred when I was doing the trial centre cap spray. The rattle can was Simoniz Satin Black. Should I buy better quality nozzled cans from AutoPaints or Paints4U or even Wurth?

Will acrylic go over 2K?

I will spot etch prime if I have to rub through the existing paint but do I need to prime the existing 2K finish other then being rubbed up with some Scotchbrite?

Finally, what's the best satin lacquer to use?

  

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Roughly how many cans would I require bearing in mind that I'm only doing the centres?

Just looked up Wurth and it's £12.95 a can. Is it worth (sorry for pun) that???

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28 minutes ago, RichD1 said:

Wurth and it's £12.95 a can. Is it worth (sorry for pun) that???

Yes. It’s the schnizz.

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Having just looked on the Auto-Paints and Paints4u they sell their ranges at around £11 to £12.

Is it necessary to apply clear lacquer over the satin black? They are both acrylic finishes aren't they or does the lacquer give a more durable finish.

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Wurth and it's £12.95 a can. Is it worth (sorry for pun) that???

Yes. It’s the schnizz.


have you tried Wurth’s on website, you can buy direct......it may be a little cheaper?

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I looked on the Wurth site but you can't see prices and there appears to be a trade login area.

Will two cans do the four centres?

What about Wurth over 2K, do I need a primer first? Will use spot etch primer if I have to rub through to the metal.

 

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On 5/6/2018 at 3:49 PM, RichD1 said:

I looked on the Wurth site but you can't see prices and there appears to be a trade login area.

Once you’ve logged in and created an account it shows prices.

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