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when you hear of cars that have had an engine rebuild, lets say a full rebuild, would it be standard procedure to change the oil pump?

i sometimes wonder why people only have a 'top end' done, when this vital component of the oil pump could need changing,

or is this pump bulletproof and as long as the oil is clean, it would just keep going?

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I had my oil pump checked and “blueprinted” when the engine was rebuilt :twocents:

There was no need to change the pump and no chance of removing it through any sump opening...:D

E866DD4F-FF3B-40DE-8F03-6D8937414D85.jpeg

Edited by Dr Rock
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i was told its only possible to fit a new one during a total strip down, i suppose its a mechanical device that is submerged in oil constantly, that not much can go wrong,

i would want it changed if i had a full rebuild or if i bought a car that claimed a full rebuild.

 

reading up, i found that they can break, but mostly when another component breaks and the debris destroys them, so maybe a top end rebuild protects the oil pump from those components breaking and destroying it.

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I had the pump changed during my full rebuild, but don’t recall any specific issues with the old one after 150k.  There was some scarring to the outer body, but nothing attributable found in the cases. The pump was changed as a ‘whilst you are in there’ item, kinda spendy to change it in isolation at a later point.

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I have a GT3 pump fitted now as part of what Neil is doing - below is a pic of the standard 3.2 pump fitted by S V P,  ~20k miles laterIMG_0160_preview.thumb.jpeg.d3149b8bd23a19d8906135e1c366ffcf.jpeg

 

 

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The oil pump is driven by the intermediate shaft.

The intermediate shaft sits under the crank and is driven by a pair of helical gears (one on the crank & one on the intermediate shaft).

The intermediate shaft also has a pair of duplex chain sprockets that drive the camshafts. 

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48 minutes ago, Leicestershire said:

The oil pump is driven by the intermediate shaft.

The intermediate shaft sits under the crank and is driven by a pair of helical gears (one on the crank & one on the intermediate shaft).

The intermediate shaft also has a pair of duplex chain sprockets that drive the camshafts. 

thankyou, 

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Good point above the IS gear, the larger one is made of ally, IIRC.

Mine was showing minor signs of wear, but I’ve gone for a set of straight cut steel items.

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Pic of the IS gear removed from mine (170k miles) - I really didn’t expect this to be made of ally, assumed steel would be stronger in this use case

 

9780D912-B6D1-4589-85AD-A132A0B1C960.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Regarding oil pressure how should the pressure dial be, as I have now experience with this be4. Once the car warms up it drops to arund one, I know oil will go smoother thinner once warm. So at iddle when  warm it' drops down low when revs up it follow I'd say this is normal. But should it go that low, the oil tank starts middle ends up hi when warm so I know about checking the oil after warm up how long be for the engine is warm on tick over and the cold start has switched off. Also I had small back fire today was showing the last owner the job I did one the air box. Started the car then just touch the throttle in the engine area pop small back fire I'm thinking if because it' cold and how lng should one let the engine iddle before reving. Off course I got worried, but like my mate said if Porsche engines couldn' take a small back fire like what happned they'd be out off biz.. I felt the air coming out off the end off the air filter I really do need someone who know how to do the mixture on it. 

Screenshot_20180428-171932.png

 

Aboe a little rev 

Below at iddle 

Screenshot_20180428-171845.png

Edited by Andrew911sc
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