Jump to content
Impact Bumpers
Robos911

3.2 Carrera - now a project!

Recommended Posts

This thread is making me feel faint. Superb work, I'm worried about what is lurking under the skin on mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2018 at 9:29 PM, osc911 said:

This thread is making me feel faint. Superb work, I'm worried about what is lurking under the skin on mine.

Hope you don't find what i did 😯, if it is then i would have a good think about what to do, if i wasnt doing the work myself then selling and buying a better one might have been a better option, although at least this way i will know exactly what ive got!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In a change from the usual update and to remind myself why i bought a Porsche in the first place i treated myself to a trip to Stuttgart,  some nice IBs, and good to see a few in use and not the museum, along with a tractor on the road!!

As a nice touch i picked up some Stuttgart plates as a from the dealer, quite surprised when they gave them to me!!

On the resto progress ive now got the rear section of the floor edge tacked in place, nice to add a bit of metal instead of cutting it out!

 

Fr40.jpg

Fr41.JPG

Fr42.jpg

Fr43.jpg

Fr44.JPG

Fr45.JPG

Fr46.JPG

Fr47.jpg

Fr48.JPG

Fr49.jpg

Fr50.jpg

Fr51.jpg

Fr52.JPG

Fr53.JPG

Fr54.JPG

Fr55.JPG

Fr56.jpg

Fr57.jpg

Fr58.jpg

Fr59.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished welding the rear floor in this week and was hoping to get more new metal welded in but.... I carried on cutting the rust out along the bottom of the torsion bar.  I don't know why it still surprises me, but it was worse than expected!!  I almost lost my bottle when I realised the only way to fix the rusty heater tube was to cut the bottom half of the torsion bar reinforcement plate off....

Good news is that I can finally see solid metal!  Just need to figure out how I am going to let in the new metal!  The new repair panel doesn't look like a great fit so will need a bit of attention and ive no idea how I am going to do the heater tube???  I wont be able to weld all the way around it so I am thinking some sort of flexible tube that will slide over each end of the existing tube, I am sure ive seen somebody using a flexible exhaust repair section, anyone got any ideas 60mm OD?

 

 

 

 

Fr61.jpg

Fr63.jpg

Fr64.jpg

Fr65.jpg

Fr67.jpg

Fr69.jpg

Fr70.jpg

Fr71.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Robos911 said:

Something like this, comes 60mm ID and the heater tube is 60mm OD so should slip over.....

Fr72.jpg

I used something very similar, but just make sure you can compress it as you'll need to manipulate it where it sits below the torsion bar. To fix, I used small tack welds and sealed with exhaust paste. Great work as usual - good to see you sticking at it.

Cheers

FF

post-1774-0-18130600-1483287193.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You’ve fitted yours inside which makes sense, saves a bit of space! I think I will take the tube I cut off to the motor factors/exhaust place and see if they have anything that fits, they only seem to give the ID in the adverts!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yippee... nice to be letting in new metal rather than cutting out the old crap!!

Bought some 2" flexi pipe which was probably slightly big, I would have been better off with the next size down but it bends easily and it squashes where needed. Prepared the panel with lots of punched 7.5mm holes, painted in 2 pack epoxy up to the edges then bare metaled and weld through primer.  Gave the old heater tube a light dusting with matt black.... no reason why other than it looked nicer going back together!!.

Inner sill is tacked on, kidney bowl is a trial fit, the rear panel seems to fit ok but I need to refit the lower re-enforcement panel, all in all I am happy, had a pause just to have a think and make sure ive missed nothing, at this rate 5 or 6 years and I will have it sorted ;0)

 

fr80.JPG

fr81.JPG

fr82.JPG

fr83.JPG

fr84.JPG

fr85.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got new lugs with the repair panel but Ive kept the bottom half of the strengthening panel (with the old ones still attached) so I was either welding this back on with the old lugs or making a new bottom half and fitting the new lugs using the cover as a template. Ive not really decided yet, but I was going to trim the panel around the torsion tube back a bit more to tidy it up and make it a neater repair.  I kept the top lugs attached to use as a datum.

Thoughts?

0C767D05-8528-4877-B6A2-1BC62DF3971C.png

Edited by Robos911
Pic of strengtheningplate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Robos911 said:

I got new lugs with the repair panel but Ive kept the bottom half of the strengthening panel (with the old ones still attached) so I was either welding this back on with the old lugs or making a new bottom half and fitting the new lugs using the cover as a template. Ive not really decided yet, but I was going to trim the panel around the torsion tube back a bit more to tidy it up and make it a neater repair.  I kept the top lugs attached to use as a datum.

Thoughts?

0C767D05-8528-4877-B6A2-1BC62DF3971C.png

I asked the question as that particular area caused me a bit of a headache when I fitted the Dansk repair panel over the top in terms of alignment. To avoid some of the issues I experienced, I would recommend checking everything a few times before you commit to welding to ensure all the bolts thread in easily through the retaining bracket. The flexible heater tube I fitted was causing the issues in my case. In addition to those checks, I understand that this area has to take quite a lot of 'load' during driving so it needs to be well repaired to avoid future stress fractures. 

Cheers

FF

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got you👍

Ive already noticed that the panel isn’t a great fit, with it pushed over the existing lugs it’s a good few mm out on the edge! Pic below, it seems like the lug holes are out i.e. if it was rotated ACW it would be a much better fit.  I’ve not tried it with the reinforcement and new pipe underneath yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×