Robos911 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Posted July 13, 2018 Oh dear, bought an endoscope on eBay for £15 in the hope that it would prove the existing repairs were ok.... it didn’t... Also looking at the edges of the kidney bowl you could clearly see there were 2 one on top of the other!!
Robos911 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Posted July 13, 2018 I bit the bullet and started cutting. The rear wing had been cut and brazed back on... about 10mm of solid metal, the whole sill was then covered in filler. I was hoping that some of the panels would be reusable but they were well attached and took a lot of getting off!!! As each new(ish) piece of metal came off it revealed more and more rust! The new sill overlapped the old sill, the new kidney bowl was fitted over the old one and welded half way up because the welds at the bottom didn’t take (can’t weld to rust), this was then hidden with filler. The inner sill was rusted through and the floor edge has loads of patches welded over rusty steel basically it’s far far far worse than I was ever expecting.... Gutted... Problem is I’m now having to remove so many cornflakes to get to something solid I could easily lose datums, looks like I need: Outer 6” of floorpan, inner sill, outer sill, kidney bowl inc Jack point, loads of other hand made bits!!! Sorry if a bit photo heavy, hopefully they will stay in some sort of order this time!! 😰
fat fuchs Posted July 14, 2018 Posted July 14, 2018 Nothing unusual in that rust so don't feel too bad about it. Your new inner sill will provide a setting out point to some degree where it fits over the jacking point. I would consider buying a torsion bar repair section too and cutting out the bit you need to make a proper repair. The inner sill, rear inner wing and jacking point support all overlap at the jacking point socket so you have three layers of metal in that area. Also, be sure to remove all the spot welds at the top of the sill (where the door seal sits) or you will have alignment issues down the track. This is the section I'm referring to where the overlap takes place;
Robos911 Posted July 14, 2018 Author Posted July 14, 2018 12 hours ago, fat fuchs said: I would consider buying a torsion bar repair section too and cutting out the bit you need to make a proper repair. Think you could be right, the rot probably continues round the bottom of here as well! Plan is start with the floor repair panel! I think I can justify that new welder now! 👍
Robos911 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Posted July 18, 2018 On 6/18/2018 at 2:45 PM, sladey said: Barry Carter on DDK recommends 95%argon/5% CO2 - which is what I use. You used to have to get a monthly subscription with a supplier but now a lot of places are doing the bottle replacement idea which is perfect for hobbyists - a bottle can last a month or 2 years. Of interest? Just been reading one of Barry’s threads (on sill replacement) http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28001&sid=ab248dbbce635ca3a9a05695cadd36b6&start=15 and he also recommends Cougar 5 Which is the same mix as Hobbyweld 5. No monthly rentals on Hobbyweld. On 6/18/2018 at 9:00 AM, Leicestershire said: Could be wrong here but I think Portamig stopped trading. The new company is called Technical Arc, TecArc or TA. The machines look very similar. Also just pulled the trigger on a Portamig 186, 👍 the difference between Portamig and the TechArc is that the Portamig has smoothing capacitors and the TechArc doesn’t. Both made by same company! 2-3 week delivery then I run out of excuses for any poor welding 😂 Thanks all for the input!
Robos911 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Posted July 20, 2018 On 7/14/2018 at 9:04 AM, fat fuchs said: Nothing unusual in that rust so don't feel too bad about it. Your new inner sill will provide a setting out point to some degree where it fits over the jacking point. I would consider buying a torsion bar repair section too and cutting out the bit you need to make a proper repair. The inner sill, rear inner wing and jacking point support all overlap at the jacking point socket so you have three layers of metal in that area. Also, be sure to remove all the spot welds at the top of the sill (where the door seal sits) or you will have alignment issues down the track. This is the section I'm referring to where the overlap takes place; FF, mines the later version so the jacking point comes attached to the kidney bowl, not sure if you can help but I’m presuming in the jacking point area I fit the inner sill, then the rear torsion repair panel, overlapping by 120mm, then the big kidney bowl over the top with the jack point attached. So no jacking point suppor (drilled panel in your pic)?? Also is the inner end of the jack socket supposed to be welded to something? If it is how do I have to cut s hole from the top?? Pics below showing kidney bowl on top of inner sill. cheers Ste
Robos911 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Posted July 20, 2018 Little visit to Porsche Bolton to pickup outer sills, the blue GT3 was very nice!! Got the floor panel repair which replaces the outside 6” of floor so a bit more cutting out and I’m back to solid metal! Also means I will be able to weld from inside the car rather than just underneath (still needs plugwelds), which makes it a lot easier repair. Not started tacking yet need to do a bit more adjustment to get it spot on but looks better already!! 👍
fat fuchs Posted July 21, 2018 Posted July 21, 2018 10 hours ago, Robos911 said: FF, mines the later version so the jacking point comes attached to the kidney bowl, not sure if you can help but I’m presuming in the jacking point area I fit the inner sill, then the rear torsion repair panel, overlapping by 120mm, then the big kidney bowl over the top with the jack point attached. So no jacking point suppor (drilled panel in your pic)?? Also is the inner end of the jack socket supposed to be welded to something? If it is how do I have to cut s hole from the top?? Pics below showing kidney bowl on top of inner sill. cheers Ste The drilled section (in my image) is a section I fabricated but that would normally be part of the torsion bar repair panel so your assumed 'assembly' order is correct. The Jacking point sockets are tack welded in place at the flat end on cars with the standard kidney bowl but with the later modified version that you are fitting the socket should be supplied pre-welded to the kidney section itself. If you want a belt and braces job, you could do as you suggest and create an access hole to weld the rear section in place too. Cheers A
Beaky Posted July 21, 2018 Posted July 21, 2018 10 hours ago, World Citizen said: what a serious project Absolutely..................
Flat 6 Posted July 21, 2018 Posted July 21, 2018 29 minutes ago, Beaky said: Absolutely.................. But at the end you'll have a fantastic car that you know is right...and best of all you'll have done it yourself👏💃
Robos911 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Posted July 21, 2018 13 hours ago, fat fuchs said: The drilled section (in my image) is a section I fabricated but that would normally be part of the torsion......... Great stuff thanks!! 23 hours ago, World Citizen said: what a serious project 12 hours ago, Beaky said: Absolutely.................. 11 hours ago, Flat 6 said: But at the end you'll have a fantastic car that you know is right...and best of all you'll have done it yourself👏💃 👍 Thanks all!! Easy bit done, cutting it all out, it gets a bit more tricky now and unfortunately?? I’ve got holidays coming up so progress will slow!!
JLewis Posted August 14, 2018 Posted August 14, 2018 serious project, but you're making great progress, and it will be worth it when done and to a standard that you're happy with.
R2D2 Posted August 14, 2018 Posted August 14, 2018 Good lad for getting stuck in Robo! All will be good. Hi Jamie - you good?
Supersport Mike Posted August 14, 2018 Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) Fair play to you fella , if that was mine I would have buried my head in the sand for a week . Great cars but they do have there rust points don't they Mike PS...... what's the other side like Edited August 14, 2018 by Supersport Mike
Supersport Mike Posted August 14, 2018 Posted August 14, 2018 Sorry just seen piccys of the other side Mike
Robos911 Posted August 14, 2018 Author Posted August 14, 2018 Thanks again all!! I would have buried my head in the sand for a week . 3 hours ago, Supersport Mike said: PS...... what's the other side like I had my head buried in the sand for a lot longer than a week😳 I’ve not looked at the sills on the other side yet but I’m expecting similar! Trying to take it one bit at a time and not look at the big picture👍
JLewis Posted August 14, 2018 Posted August 14, 2018 5 hours ago, R2D2 said: Good lad for getting stuck in Robo! All will be good. Hi Jamie - you good? All good thanks! You?
Robos911 Posted August 31, 2018 Author Posted August 31, 2018 Back from my hols where I read Practical Classics guide on stretching and shrinking metal, so with a few hrs spare today I thought I would give it a go. At some point somebody had jacked it on one of the seems so had to pull that back into shape. Then made up a small inner patch with a bit of panel beating!! Quite happy with the result and nice to start letting some new metal into the sill area👍 Going to take forever to make up all the curved panels that will cover it.... Not the most exciting update but at least it’s some progress!!
Robos911 Posted August 31, 2018 Author Posted August 31, 2018 7 minutes ago, World Citizen said: Robos911 is your real name Tea Boy? 😂 no but I’ve got to ask why!!
World Citizen Posted August 31, 2018 Posted August 31, 2018 43 minutes ago, Robos911 said: 😂 no but I’ve got to ask why!! It was a compliment as Tea Boy was restoring his 911 from very well crafted hammered out sheet metal patches
Robos911 Posted August 31, 2018 Author Posted August 31, 2018 👍 just having a read through his thread! Thanks!
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