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reddevil

Outer CV boot

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Hi all, what is the procedure to change the outer CV boot? Anything in particular to look out for?

Thanks!

Chris

 

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Remove the inner one and shove the boot up the driveshaft to outer CV so you don't have to remove the hub nut?

 

Is that how you do it as I can't remember what I did when I did mine, certainly didn't remove the hub nut.

 

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Yes it is bolted to the gearbox but does not form part of the gearbox "enclosure" - no gearbox oil will escape. What year car do you have?

 

 

 

 

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12 minutes ago, reddevil said:

Is it bolted to the gearbox end? Will all the gearbox oil fall out if I remove the CV at that end?

No mate, no gearbox oil will be hurt during the procedure!

As Nige says unbolt the inner end of the driveshaft, remove the inner CV joint retaining circlip, remove the inner CV joint, cut the outer CV boot off, clean and repack outer CV with grease, slide new outer boot along the shaft, repack and refit inner CV joint, fit new boot & cover, fit new cork gasket then bolt back in place.

All that said I would probably remove the hub nut and do it all on the bench instead as it will be a bear to do under the car.

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It's an 87 (G50).

Thanks both for the replies, only ever done FWD shafts on our C1 race car and the rally car, those just slide out along with your gearbox oil!!

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Ok cool, so you have the best year IB (i.e. the same as mine) - to replace the outer boot you can either wrestle the hub nut off (not always easy as torqued to something like 250NM) and then remove the 8 bolts from the inner CV joint at the gearbox. The whole driveshaft can then be relocated to the kitchen table (when the missus is out) and the offending boot replaced.

Or do it the Nige way which will mean you have to remove the 8 bolts to the inner CV joint, remove the circlip at the end of the driveshaft, remove the smaller jub clip inner boot, slide the inner CV joint and boot off the driveshaft leaving the bare splined end of the shaft exposed, remove both clips from the outer CV joint boot, slide the knackered boot off the shaft. Installation is the reverse etc.

Messy job but not difficult.

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If you remove the whole drive shaft, you might as well change the whole CV joint whilst you're at it.  Bet the faces are pitted/scored anyway.

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I think I'll take it off the car and strip it down and take a look. Seems easy enough and I have a 983NM gun!

At this point I'd like to mention our C1 racing sponsors, MAC Tools (Kenilworth).

http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-tools-products/bwp050-kit-12-drive-18v-mac-cordless-impact-wrench-kit

IMG_5133.thumb.jpg.49049ff4e345246b03d5dd2983bc9bea.jpg

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Hmmm like that Mac.

As Nige says replacing the actual CV joint is a good idea - I washed mine out with degreaser and then swished a magnet around in the mix - lots of filings/ bits of metal came out!

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Also worth considering the state of the other joints whilst you are doing this.  When I rebuilt mine last year I used synthetic CV grease for the first time, think it was Redline.  Consider new bolts/schnorr washers and check torque after 100 miles or so

Ian

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Just had mine done- all 4 replaced. I let GCR do it as the car was in for a full service.

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Ben C did a really good write up about disassembling and reassembling CV joints and boots but it has gone.

There's a link for it at the end of this thread.

 

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How much should it cost at a garage approx to get all 4 CV boots changed? 

I asked my OPC today who quoted six hours and £800!

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Six hours isn’t ridiculous to do the job properly, strip and clean each joint.  Pack with new grease, boots and re-fit.  It is a filthy job.  Why go to the OPC though?

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On 9/3/2018 at 3:53 PM, Nige said:

If you remove the whole drive shaft, you might as well change the whole CV joint whilst you're at it.  Bet the faces are pitted/scored anyway.

I'd change both while you're in there as they'll both have suffered the same abuse

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I need to do this job  on my car - what are the 'best' boots to buy for longevity?

The originals have lasted 30 years - I'd like the replacements to last more than 1. Is this possible with generally crappy after market rubber parts?

Which are the best ones out there?

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Lucky me, early 3.2s have SC style CVs, No hub nut to undo, just 6 bolts on both inner and outer, plus they are identical so you can swop around the shaft! Unlucky me, even genuine GKN CV boot split after less than a year....

Chris

 

 

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Think mine were Lobro, maybe Lemforder from Tripe.  Was about 6-8 years ago that I change them, I assume they're not split as I haven't checked and they've not caused an MOT fail yet.

Does Tripe still run his parts business MBS anymore?  Can't find any trace of him on tinterweb.

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18 hours ago, Ian Comerford said:

Six hours isn’t ridiculous to do the job properly, strip and clean each joint.  Pack with new grease, boots and re-fit.  It is a filthy job.  Why go to the OPC though?

Good question. I might not for this job, but I had a good experience last year with local OPC last year for the usual service so I quite like using them and the basic servicing is not that much & includes Porsche courtesy car etc. Its a nice experience. (but I note the quote does seem a lot more this year than last).

I'll get a quote from the village garage who I like to use too, but just interested what typical cost might be (noting I know many here DIY) - I don't have six spare hours for this!

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£800 inc VAT just for the 4 CV boots, parts and six hours labour. Service was on top!

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I don't know about whats involved in doing the job on these new fangled '3.2 with G50' things, but if its on a splendid 915 gearbox, I managed to remove,  clean, re-grease and re-boot all fours CV joints and replace all the bolts with new etc over a weekend, thus saving a small fortune it seems. It is not a difficult job. Its fiddly and messy yes but well within the capabilities of anyone that can jack up their car and hold a spanner.. Key top tip is to make sure that each CV bolt head (its an allen headed bolt) is cleaned out using a small screwdrivers ort similar and that the allen socket is tapped well in to the bolt head (both to ensure that you don't strip the bolt head).

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My  painful experience...

Some of the new CV boots have thin flanges whereas the old ones are about 5mm thick.  

On my 915 box I installed all new GKN CVs and boots.  I got all new fasteners too.  Put everything together and the wheels wouldn’t turn!   Because the flanges are thinner I had to shorten all 12 of the outer bolts by 4mm as they were binding on the banana arm.  Grrr...

When the car went for its first MOT after restoration it failed because 3 of the 4 brand new CV boots had split! The car had travelled just 5 miles.  There was nothing wrong with the installation.

To add insult to injury,  grease was now spattered all over the pristine underside of the car and I had to do the job all over again.   

I put the original boots back on (had to buy the fasteners again).  That was 32k miles ago and they are still fine.

 

 

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