Jump to content

Exhaust Studs


Recommended Posts

Dunno, I'd be tempted to clean them up best you can and refit the new exhaust to the existing studs.  They don't look that bad in your photos.

Wanting nice new shiny studs in there could break you mentally and physically.

I had to drill 3 out and that was bad enough.  I felt the risk of it going t*ts up even with a good quality jig to hand was always on my mind, even more so if I had 12 to do.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Nige said:

Dunno, I'd be tempted to clean them up best you can and refit the new exhaust to the existing studs.  They don't look that bad in your photos.

Wanting nice new shiny studs in there could break you mentally and physically.

I had to drill 3 out and that was bad enough.  I felt the risk of it going t*ts up even with a good quality jig to hand was always on my mind, even more so if I had 12 to do.

+1 What he said. I did mine last year. Luckily didn’t have to drill any studs but had to drill out an air injection tube. That was bad enough. They don’t look too bad David. I’d be tempted to leave well alone. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the others have said those studs look like they'll clean up OK. I wouldn't risk trying to change them unless you have the cylinder heads sat on a workbench - even then its still not easy as the original thread lock doesn't seem to release unless its very very hot...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put the exhaust on, tighten the nuts and if one snaps then you know you need to replace. It won't make much difference whether it's snapped or not if you have to remove. It's a pig of a job either way and best avoided if possible. As others have suggested, don't do it if you don't have to.

Edited by Phill
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’d try to avoid if at all possible but if there’s a real dodgy bugger (or three) and it just has to be removed, probably easier to remove before snapping. If you can heat, cool, heat, cool in lots of cycles then double nut them to get them off, it’s a much better option than drilling. If possible. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have finally grasped the mettle and replaced the broken stud! Bl@@dy nerve racking to drill out using the cut-off old manifold flanges as a guide with stainless thick-walled tubing to reduce the hole diameter as a guide for the drill bit. Still managed to break a drill bit and had to resort to the good old Dremel....... Anyway, now to fit those lovely stainless heat exchangers courtesy of our Matt at Type911. More photo’s posted as things hopefully progress! Have heeded warnings about going for total stud replacement and on the experience of replacing only one stud, I’m going to see how the remaining studs torque up.....if ok they can remain in-situ......if disaster strikes we’ll just have to repeat the tedious process again! I think that realistically the complete stud replacement could only be carried out during a major engine rebuild where the heads could be uniformly heated in an oven, the studs frozen and then hopefully extracted.

David.

BBC14EDF-999D-4A67-AFAF-FDBB7CC2957A.jpeg

BAB670DF-54B1-407F-8B0C-D50F6D1ADA2C.jpeg

12A77635-8E11-401E-AAD2-B2EF0FE92D49.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Success!!!.......exhaust now installed and car started this evening! Not the easiest job to do but got there in the end. Not had a chance to check for leaks as the idle is now 200 rpm and obviously stalls. Could be the timing as I had to move the distributor when accessing one of the tin-work bolts, will check tomorrow. Hopefully off SORN in the next few days and the open road ahead!......well......not withstanding all the bl@@dy road works which seem to have proliferated these past few weeks. Anyway, just wanted to share a modest success.

16A752EC-C922-4D1C-ABC5-0DB76E355CD6.jpeg

4BF3BA88-AF27-439D-843B-5A934B158D14.jpeg

D706178E-9E7A-41A6-8C9E-6C474C088DEF.jpeg

56404EF9-8F94-4FA7-A798-C2D43CA1E40E.jpeg

BD22AE47-AE1E-4410-AC90-DA671EFEDAB8.jpeg

CE107D55-42AB-4818-8299-A14AC2AB8E00.jpeg

D022B3F4-FFF2-4BE5-8F8E-5C17C775B942.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Courage my son! Only advice I can give is be very careful and methodical. Should you come to grief, swallow hard and think very carefully what course of action needs to be done to rectify. I tried heat / cooling cycle and Rost- off to try and free the effing different metals to no avail. Drilling out the broken stud was nerve racking but ok in the end. There is advice on here from those who have undergone this trial by fire, but if you need to talk, just pm me and I’ll give you my mobile number. A friendly shoulder to lean on helps!

Regarfs,

David.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Henry, bit of a journey this one but got there in the end. My sand-blasting cabinet came into it’s own with refurbishing the intermediate pipe and waste-gate plus waste-gate silencer......finished off with high temperature paint. Just need to finish off refitting the rear bumper and lights, then road test......yippee!!!  Fingers crossed that all is well.......?

regards,

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...