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TimNiceBut

Just looked at an '89 Cabriolet and have some questions

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It's been a good eight years since I've driven, let alone owned an IB so my memory of what a G50-equipped 911 should drive like it a little fuzzy to put it mildly.

Anyway, the car in question is a slightly modded Cabriolet (Cup 1 wheels - oh well, AutoAuthority MAF conversion with cone filter - hrmph, Dansk or Dansk copy dual exit muffler, 930 valve covers) that appears to be mostly rust free but suffering from the usual California car issues like dead seat leather (driver's seat needs to be redone, passenger seat not far behind). Needs spring plate bushings, some electrical issues addressed and the electric mirrors fixed. 129k on the clock, allegedly had the engine rebuilt before the current owner bought the car about 11 years ago but no paperwork found detailing the engine rebuild, the owner is deceased and neither the widow nor the friend helping to sell the car has found any paperwork to show details about the rebuild.

I drove it and it drove OK, although I noticed a certain reluctance to rev cleanly between 2000-2300rpm (occasional backfires). I also noticed that the G50 shifted a bit "scratchy" until it warmed up. Shift quality improved massively once the drive train had warmed up. I can't remember if that's normal for a G50 or not?

It certainly felt like a transmission service would be helpful, and I also noticed that the shift lever doesn't appear to self centre (but the again, I can't remember if the G50 does that or not).

I think the widow of the owner is asking a realistic price, but the last thing I need is another needy 911 right now, so I'm in two minds if I should pursue this further or not. On one hand, it needs work, on the other hand it's already modded slightly so I can treat it like a blank canvas.

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That does not sound like my G50 with 112k miles, perhaps a good idea to chat to a gearbox specialist to get an idea of possible issues & fix estimate.

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Thanks - my first thoughts when driving the car was "gearbox feels like a 915" as I remembered my G50 being somewhat slicker. I did check the shift pattern though to make sure it's not a 915 :). It somehow just felt like the syncros were very slow when the box was cold. Once warmed up, the box felt smooth when shifting deliberately, just a bit vague and with very long throws. And yes, I know better than trying to rip through the gears on these boxes. I think the shifter needs a rebuild, which isn't a big deal, but I'm not convinced that the box doesn't need additional help.

 

Edited by TimNiceBut

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My gearbox is stiff to get into 2nd when cold. Fine when it warms up.:twocents: Change the fluid and see what that does.

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So things have been moving along slowly, but I finally managed to get my behind down to the car again yesterday to crawl underneath it properly to check for rust issues etc. Of course that had to coincide with major snowstorm around here but hey...

The underside of the car is almost clean enough to eat off, if I'm willing to ignore the overspray from an older repaint. Yes, I knew that the car had been repainted. After talking to the owner again it looks like I misunderstood her asking price and it's in the I'd kick myself if I didn't buy it for that sort of money. Let's see how it works out, but I should be able to conclude the deal next week.

It does need a few more things - looks like the passenger door lock needs a bit of adjusting, and it needs a really good service, too. The roof needs one of the tensioner? straps looking at and again, some lubrication wouldn't go amiss, but I should be able to get most of that done by the time they stop throwing salt on the roads around here.

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3.2s commonly suffer from inlet manifold gaskets passing, this can cause backfires and depending on severity of the leak, an unstable idol. relitivly easy fix and cheap parts (2 gaskets and spacer per cylinder 'bank').

simple test to check inlet gasket efficiency is to either (depending on your apitite for risk):

1.  Spray brake cleaner (sparingly as is flamible) around the base of the inlet manifold(s) and if there is a leak you should notice the rpm of the engine increase or;

2.  Spray leak ditector fluid and watch for bubbles being drawn into the flange etc around the manifold base. 

 

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Thanks - let's hope that's the issue, because that would be a relatively simple fix.

It's also been marking its territory a bit more than I'd like it to. Especially as the leak seems to be right next to the left exhaust manifold. I'm hoping it's something simple like a valve cover but I won't have time to crawl underneath the car for a few weeks.  Not that it's going anywhere with the amount of salt they're chucking on the roads out here at the moment.

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I hope you get to the bottom of it.

 

Worth checking the oil that was unsed in the car, some people use fully synthetic which is too thin and leaks more easily. Same goes for old oil. well worth renewing the oil/filter if you are unsure of when it was last changed. if the oil gets to thin the hydrolic cam tentioners will struggle and that makes a scary noise. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, sammillyard said:

I hope you get to the bottom of it.

 

Worth checking the oil that was unsed in the car, some people use fully synthetic which is too thin and leaks more easily. Same goes for old oil. well worth renewing the oil/filter if you are unsure of when it was last changed. if the oil gets to thin the hydrolic cam tentioners will struggle and that makes a scary noise. 

 

 

Or you could just buy a thicker fully synthetic oil?  Mobil 1 10/60 Motorsport for example. 

I thought the "synthetiics are too thin" story had died years ago.....

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