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As some of you know I have been considering a Cayman as a replacement for my Clio since selling it and have looked at a number of cars over the last few months, with a variety of mileage, extras, prices and condition.  This week I purchased a private 64000 mile, 5 owner car with 12 months MOT which I found on eBay, good history (but service is due based on time), very clean all round, many £ spend by previous owners including nearly £10K with an OPC in the last 4 years doing all the common jobs, no sign of the usual issues that blight these cars, so will see how it goes.  Contisport N1 tyres all round, aftermarket head unit (I was not bothered about sat nav, but the Bluetooth will be useful), it has PASM which is firm, but should be handy on track.  It has a misfire, which was a good negotiating point, based on fault codes looks like a coil pack, plan is to replace them all anyway.
 
Immediate jobs are a major service so I have had a delivery of the basics from Type911 (pollen and oil filter element, K&N air filter, magnetic sump plug, Swepco gearbox oil and a oil filter housing wrench, low temp thermostat) and from others Millers Nanotech 10W-50 oil, Performance coil packs and Aux belt, as I missed this from the Type911 order.  Its had pads and discs in the last 3000 miles but is due a fluid change so this will be done and a BK deep sump kit is on order that will be fitted at the same time as the oil change.  I will probably use the same independent garage that did the work on my Clio's as I can get involved.  May drop some CL 5+ pads in as well and a few mods similar to those RB has done on his Boxter and the other fast road/track Cayman builds along the lines of the Stuttgart Classica Club Sport.  So next up likely to be suspension bush refresh and perhaps the additional central radiator, but I will see how cooling goes.

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Good stuff Paul. Looking forward to your opinion after living with it for a bit.

Can't beat having a new toy :madjg:

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Well first job done, found the engine and changed the air filter for a K&N one, some very handy videos on You Tube on how to do a lot of this stuff.

Engine needs a clean.

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Yep, clean it up then get a glass engine cover to show it off!

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Had a day off yesterday and got a few more bits done, changed the plugs and coil packs which has sorted the misfire, one bank did seem to shutdown for a bit but now seems ok? Despite the invoices with the car showing 4 coil packs replaced by an OPC only 3 had been, so 3 looked original. Plugs had only done a few thousand miles, but had been in for 4 years so it seemed wise to do those as well, now drives much better.

Changed the gearbox oil for Swepco 201, can't notice a changed yet, but the oil in the box was like new with no traces of metal which is good.

Brake fluid was also due based on time and changed for ATE 200, the pedal still feels vague at best although the pads and disks are new, so I am going to put some CL5+ on the front and see what that does. My view is along the same lines as RB currently regarding brake performance, certainly not confidence inspiring.

Did a coolant change and fitted a low temp 71 degrees stat, all went well except an airlock, despite using a vacuum tool, this took ages to sort and was not helped by the gauge not working, sitting on 0 with a red flashing light, corrected by disconnecting the battery and leaving for 10 minutes and running the car and topping up the coolant.

 

New charcoal cabin filter, Aux belt change and cleaned all the crap from by the radiators, got the radio wired into the fuse box properly and a good clean and thats it for now. Still waiting for the deep sump kit and them I will do the oil change to Millers 10W-50, fit the new pads and braided lines which are on order together with new bleed nipples as the currently ones are looking a bit rusty.

Will need new rear tyres soon for just looking at what to get based on RB experience, Michelin PS2's seem to be pretty good value as well and of course once I am happy with it getting a track day booked probably towards the end of January.

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Given I have Michie Supersports (better than PS2s by all accounts) on 2 cars and PS91s on the 987, I can confirm that the PS91s are not far off the SS for road driving - right down to feeling similarly slidey once the temps drop close to zero and if there is a hint of moisture on the road.  The PS91 is a fraction softer in sidewall (not a bad thing for the road), while still being stiff enough and it wears faster.  I would love to put Cup2s on and crank up the damper stiffness, but expense isn't justified.

Of the budget tyres available, I am still happy with the PS91s.

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Paul, in case you are unaware of it, this is a good place to get info and ask questions for Caymans. Theres a few track builds on there too.
https://www.caymanoc.com/
 

Thanks yes have joined that forum and seen your profile, useful articles and track build threads are a good reference.

Paul


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Hi Paul

My word you have been busy

Let me know when your on track I might pop over to Silverstone ……..if its Silverstone your going to

 

Mike

 

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Well deep sump arrived from Porsche Shop but not the one I ordered which was this;

https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/deep-sump-oil-pan-kit.html

I have this and it looks like no extender for the oil pickup, with their comment being it does not need one, despite there being one in pictures from other sellers of the same product, so not sure what to believe.

https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/deep-sump-pan-oil-baffle-kit-1ltr-996-997-carrera-boxster-cayman-1997-2009.html

This looks the same thing.

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod6303/Deep-Sump-Oil-Pan-Kit-Porsche-996--997---Boxster-986-987--Cayman/

Don't want to risk oil pickup on this engine so will get this sorted before fitting anything.

On a good point pads, braided lines and new bleed nipples have arrived so will fit them this weekend and try to sort this misfire, but need to diagnose first.

 

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Could be arguments either way as to which is best.  I voted BK.

I reckon I may have fried my rear calipers courtesy of PSM as I seem to have a slight pad drag issue indicating fried seals.  Interesting one to keep an eye open for.  I didn't ever bother to turn off PSM on fast drives as it seems well enough judged to let you get some slip before fairly light intervention.  And I wasn't trying to Chris Harris it all over the place.

Also, while you are in there on brakes, I would get the larger 345mm front discs.  Cheap upgrade.  Get the coated option unless you like rust on the hub piece.

Edited by Richard Bernau

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Thanks Richard - where did you get your disks?  I did the pads today (only the fronts CL5+), together with braided lines, new bleed nipples and the GT3 air scoops (as they are so cheap), but brakes still feel vague I am hoping its bedding in but not sure, despite a good bleed as part of the process.

 

Went for it and fitted the baffled sump, new filter and the Millers Nanotech 10W/50 oil and replaced the Variocam solenoid actuator value (as thats what the errors codes pointed to) which on the drive home seems to have solves the misfire.

Going to just drive it now, but I am sure there will be a few more jobs to do and once I am happy get a track day booked.

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20 hours ago, Jaseeaton said:

What about a bigger master cylinder?  TRW PMN166

I am not convinced its required.  I know its recommended but I haven't noticed the pedal feel being too bad.  Yes, there is a little squish, but its also a lack of bite at the top of the pedal.  The bigger discs helps the bite so fools the brain into thinking the pedal feels better IMHO.

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I am not convinced its required.  I know its recommended but I haven't noticed the pedal feel being too bad.  Yes, there is a little squish, but its also a lack of bite at the top of the pedal.  The bigger discs helps the bite so fools the brain into thinking the pedal feels better IMHO.


I want to bleed the brakes first and see what does for pedal feel. The bigger master cylinder will just push more fluid not sure that will help with squish. But I am keeping options open re discs and GT3 cylinder.


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are standard S brakes that poor then?  cant say i've had cause for complaint with the CR on track and the last run out at Brands GP was heavy on braking and I was properly 'on it' racing about with other high end pork and beemers

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Mark - no its probably more me wanting to get the pedal how I like it, bigger master cylinder and discs still options and need to bed in the new pads.

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Thought afterwards as well that I've got the super light spyder wheels and vented discs so bit less unsprung mass, plus it's a lighter car, which would make quite a difference under braking.

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There was some air in the caliper, probably from when the braided lines were fitted, all bled through now and much better pedal feel.

Fitted my Sparco wheel as well that was on the 911, not sure if it will stay or not, but will get the original wheel re trimmed in Alcantara.

Just going to drive it now.

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Would you mind setting out what is involved in fitting a non-airbag steering wheel?  I have thought of doing this, though I am actually happy with the 987 sport steering wheel so likely won't, but would be good to know.  Something like momo hub, resistor for the airbag and?  It certainly adds to the sense of purpose when you add a steering wheel like that.  A bit like adding race seats.  I would put a Momo Mod07 in every car if there were not other consequences.

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