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Vehicle Lift?


Chris_911

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For me, with a single garage I'd want something like this.

https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/Scissor-Lifts/Mid-Rise-Scissor-Lifts/E4G-MR10GR-Scissor-Lift-Mid-Rise-1-Metre-Lift-with

You can still walk (crawl) down the middle and it doesn't look like it would obstruct an engine drop.

Try also do a full height one for more money. If I had a bigger garage (and the funds) i would go for a single post lift. All a moot point really until i retire or get an inheritance.

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I spent Sunday working on the 914 with my newly acquired BH Repairs lift - as Jevvy says I'm wishing I'd bought one years ago now.

Being able to have the car at a comfortable height for whatever task you doing makes things a lot more efficient and less strenuous. I'm welding up the hell hole in the engine bay at the moment - up till this weekend it meant crawling on all fours under the car to then sit on a low st00l in the engine bay... only to realise I needed another tool and to crawl back out again... I'm getting too old for this! With the lift at mid height I'm just ducking in and out and standing in the engine bay to weld.

For my needs I think this type of scissor lift works well - its not in the way at all for engine drops, and leaves the sills clear too for welding etc. My only concern with the flat ramp type scissor lifts was the width versus my car and garage - it looked like I'd be loosing some of the working space/clearance. I also want to be able to move the lift between two garages - this seems feasible using the power-pack as a dolly.

Some better pictures taken in daylight:

This is full height - just over 1.2m to the top frame, then the adapter height. I can't see that I'll every be working on it at this height to be honest - I think 1m max lift would probably be fine.

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Access from underneath is good - its going to make engine drops much much easier:

IMG_4410.thumb.JPG.7712108e6e0b2206f08fcf06dee2d394.JPG

The mechanical lock mechanism seems pretty robust:

IMG_4412.thumb.JPG.74329f552bd54f95024141436bf106b8.JPG

This is the lowest mechanically locked height - which is pretty good for general stuff:

IMG_4417.thumb.JPG.0395593311f2b2878124efb679418bb6.JPG

Edited by MaxDiesel
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On 2/15/2019 at 9:52 AM, Phill said:

You will lose even more working height .

I don't get it, none of these examples offer any advantage over a decent jack and axle stands. Then you have to store it. Even if you have a double garage it's bit intrusive. Mind you, if I had a double garage I know what I would be putting in it and it wouldn't be a car lift :lol:

As Phill said, before I got my scissor lift, I used a Weber high lift jack and large axle stands which worked really well. With advancing age, lying on a creeper board didn’t appeal so I invested in a 7 metre high garage to accommodate a lift.....life working on the car has since been a joy (I’ve now plucked up the courage to replace all the exhaust which hadn’t been touched for years!) Since these photo’s were taken, the lift has now been bolted to the floor.D93ED828-F334-4F74-B8D7-44C68A804A50.thumb.jpeg.7f1e7d4bc46ad9638cea82a572ff0d50.jpeg02C3A973-09B6-435C-9E34-95D5F55F3317.thumb.jpeg.3d2ab231ebb749f611b7c616c7f4154a.jpegD69A123F-FA5F-4D4D-8637-9EE73EA9A25B.thumb.jpeg.03cf0acc75008a44ca458853a3addd00.jpegD93ED828-F334-4F74-B8D7-44C68A804A50.thumb.jpeg.7f1e7d4bc46ad9638cea82a572ff0d50.jpeg

F653B630-7315-4876-AC43-9085BEE8F1A9.jpeg

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I think selection of scissor lift is quite important. Almost 20 years ago (holy moly) I bought a Clarke lift which was virtually the same as the Sealey lift below:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AVR2500A-Vehicle-2-5tonne-Hydraulic/dp/B00VG7JDN6

I had it for quite a few years before selling it on (to Nick Moss). I found it great for major restoration work but soon tired of it for normal stuff. It wasn’t easy to move around the garage, even a few feet and it needed to be moved to suit each car. It worked best with my front engine stuff but the 911 never felt as solid; the weight was in the wrong place and if you swapped ends access was poor. I never summoned the courage to drop the motor on the lift and used jacks and stands. I was worried that the weight transfer might make it unstable - probably needlessly. 

The twin platform type looks much better as do ones bolted to the floor but it was something I used a lot for a couple of years and then lost interest. 

For most things a jack is easier. I don’t give space now to use one properly but I’m not sure I’d repeat. 

David 

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  • 1 month later...

revisiting an old thread.  Jev do you still recommend the AS-7532B after ownership for a while?

Not convinced myself yet that I will get one for sure, but been debating it a while for my  'fleet' maintenance. After crawling about on cold concrete last weekend under the Delta & IB and getting all sorts of aches & pains, one of these would make life so much easier. Wish I'd got one 10yrs ago to be honest.

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It's an idea I'm still thinking about.

One problem for me is that I have an 'up and over' garage door and would need to replace this with a roller door for the lift to work for me.

Makes it kind of expensive :( 

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21 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

revisiting an old thread.  Jev do you still recommend the AS-7532B after ownership for a while?

Not convinced myself yet that I will get one for sure, but been debating it a while for my  'fleet' maintenance. After crawling about on cold concrete last weekend under the Delta & IB and getting all sorts of aches & pains, one of these would make life so much easier. Wish I'd got one 10yrs ago to be honest.

100% mate, it makes doing any car in the air type jobs and absolute breeze. Imagine sitting on a nice comfy st00l to work on instead of crawling on your back under the car hoping the jackstads are secure. Takes minutes and zero worry to get the car in the air and all wheels off so you are ready to get grafting in a jiffy.

 

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1 minute ago, Busybee said:

This looks a cracking bit of kit. My slab is only 5" so spreading the load with the H frame, fab https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/2-Post-Lifts/product/E4G-A240TH-2-Post-H-Frame-Baseplate-Lift-4Ton

Certainly looks like a lot for the price.

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3 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

It's an idea I'm still thinking about.

One problem for me is that I have an 'up and over' garage door and would need to replace this with a roller door for the lift to work for me.

Makes it kind of expensive :( 

Ah crap, can you not just lower the car a bit each time you need to open the garage door? The only high point on the 911 is the roof area - most of the rest of the car has good clearance to the ceiling, have you checked? Nose of the car facing the door would give you most clearance.

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14 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

One problem for me is that I have an 'up and over' garage door and would need to replace this with a roller door for the lift to work for me.

Just checked mate - it will fit if your up and over door is anything like the one I have.

Garage door prudes 130cm into the garage when open and is very close to the ceiling.
190 cm from front bumper to top of windscreen.
130 cm from back bumper to top of rear window.

So it looks to me that even with you car front or rear bumper parked right against the garage door before you open it there is room for the garage door to open fully with the lift at full height.

*My lift isnt in the garage with up and over door so cant check for sure or take pics so this is all hypothetical.
**Measurements taken from a 964

 

 

Edited by jevvy
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22 minutes ago, jevvy said:

Just checked mate - it will fit if your up and over door is anything like the one I have.

Garage door prudes 130cm into the garage when open and is very close to the ceiling.
190 cm from front bumper to top of windscreen.
130 cm from back bumper to top of rear window.

So it looks to me that even with you car front or rear bumper parked right against the garage door before you open it there is room for the garage door to open fully with the lift at full height.

*My lift isnt in the garage with up and over door so cant check for sure or take pics so this is all hypothetical.
**Measurements taken from a 964

 

 

Ah thanks Jevvy ;)

Mine was a very unscientific 'that bloody door will be in the way'....

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50 minutes ago, jevvy said:

100% mate, it makes doing any car in the air type jobs and absolute breeze. Imagine sitting on a nice comfy st00l to work on instead of crawling on your back under the car hoping the jackstads are secure. Takes minutes and zero worry to get the car in the air and all wheels off so you are ready to get grafting in a jiffy.

 

thanks mate, that's what I thought :)

Will keep my eyes out for a deal I think.

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got rubber floor tiles and mats, though I was working outside the garage on the tarmac last week. Its more the getting up and down and contorting underneath that was doing me in, no longer the nimble whipper-snapper I once was :cry:

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Tell me about it.....!! Wish I had bought my scissor lift years ago. By the way, a point that marks down the two-post lift in my mind is the restriction on opening the car doors, guess it’s a minor thing, just annoying.

David.

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Sorely tempted by that two post lift. Gave them a call. £200 +vat for delivery. 

16 minutes ago, David Gander said:

Tell me about it.....!! Wish I had bought my scissor lift years ago. By the way, a point that marks down the two-post lift in my mind is the restriction on opening the car doors, guess it’s a minor thing, just annoying.

David.

Is it the getting in and out David? Mate just bought a two post lift. Raves about it. 

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Yes, maybe ok if one doesn’t have to park the vehicle exactly positioned between the posts while not using the lift. Guess that it depends on the installation position and amount of clearance front and back?

Regards,

David.

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Pardon my ignorance but what does a scissor lift actually lift on? Does it need chocks in strategic places to lift on chassis lifting points or does it rely on a large surface area and lift on the floorpan?

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52 minutes ago, Roy M said:

Pardon my ignorance but what does a scissor lift actually lift on? Does it need chocks in strategic places to lift on chassis lifting points or does it rely on a large surface area and lift on the floorpan?

Lift on rubber blocks wherever you like on the flat part of the scissor platforms and floor pan. Usually just behind the front wheel arch and ahead of the rear.  Stiffest part is where the arch comes down to the flat floor pan. 

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