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Fuel pump not operating


nrw34260

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My no start issue a few years back ended up being the ECU, this was after changing the sensors, DME and checking earths.

Not sure how effectively you can check the sensors as the fault is intermittent.

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As above, either reference sensors or the ECU.

Do a search on here for "BMW Part Number" for an alternative part number for the sensors which avoid the ridiculous Porsche tax on these. Also, the sensors have a habit of seizing to the bracket and people have knackered the bracket in the past trying to remove them and the bracket costs £££. So unless the just twist out easily, best to remove the sensors and bracket as one and then crush/ drill out the sensors on the bench. You will have to adjust the gap between the sensors and the flywheel which you have probably seen in the manual - not difficult.

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5 minutes ago, R2D2 said:

As above, either reference sensors or the ECU.

Do a search on here for "BMW Part Number" for an alternative part number for the sensors which avoid the ridiculous Porsche tax on these. Also, the sensors have a habit of seizing to the bracket and people have knackered the bracket in the past trying to remove them and the bracket costs £££. So unless the just twist out easily, best to remove the sensors and bracket as one and then crush/ drill out the sensors on the bench. You will have to adjust the gap between the sensors and the flywheel which you have probably seen in the manual - not difficult.

Hi Nathan, Thanks.

29 minutes ago, Nige said:

My no start issue a few years back ended up being the ECU, this was after changing the sensors, DME and checking earths.

Not sure how effectively you can check the sensors as the fault is intermittent.

Thanks

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I would be tempted to go low tech first, before checking the ECU.

Whip the NSR wheel off , look upwards to the flywheel area, at Speed and Reference senders. Often the insulation has burnt off, so that during driving, engine heat soaks into the cables, preventing signal from reaching Ecu. Typical symptom of this is the car will have both no fuel nor ignition spark.

 

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On 3/31/2019 at 9:54 PM, nrw34260 said:

I replaced the DME relay and it still would not start. pulled the DME 36 pin connector to check it. When I put it back in, it fired straight up. Put the old relay back in and again fired up. Taken it on a 150mile run today, no problems. For some reason removing and refitting the DME plug sorted it, actually the same thing happened 3 years ago. All running fine now.

if removing and refitting sorted it, it points to a poor electrical connection, perhaps a break in the wire under the insulation, or just a bad connection. The "jiggle" restored the connection

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14 hours ago, angusb said:

I would be tempted to go low tech first, before checking the ECU.

Whip the NSR wheel off , look upwards to the flywheel area, at Speed and Reference senders. Often the insulation has burnt off, so that during driving, engine heat soaks into the cables, preventing signal from reaching Ecu. Typical symptom of this is the car will have both no fuel nor ignition spark.

 

Thank you, hoping to get some time next week.

13 hours ago, Strictly said:

if removing and refitting sorted it, it points to a poor electrical connection, perhaps a break in the wire under the insulation, or just a bad connection. The "jiggle" restored the connection

Did the same thing when it went into "No Start" mode again and it did not solve it.

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