Jump to content

Putting it back together


Chris_911

Recommended Posts

I had my exhaust removed in February and since then I've been pulling various things off the car for a bit of a refresh. With the exhaust and driveshafts off there's good access for all sorts of little jobs.

Charcoal canister before & after:

636082476_BeforeAFter-1.jpg.8b1a5738831f2857b6853a7f523c3dd5.jpg1437089479_BeforeAFter-2.jpg.540b4d8a0abbe117a55c3ae0b25da998.jpg

Some tinware refurbished, one rotting bit replaced and new flywheel sensors....

1246717973_BeforeAFter-3.jpg.0d4a77237cc939a61eff5bacbf08b52d.jpg1981545612_BeforeAFter-4.jpg.e86464c3ae64271a6b6bd94497305102.jpg1092529179_BeforeAFter-5.jpg.2945701577a4cfe862a479b92a98df58.jpg274360634_BeforeAFter-6.jpg.7bd2590dcf6692052fd09da1e6c1e50e.jpg

 

Much more to follow....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These photo’s Chris look nothing like the oily mess underneath my car........! On a more serious note, it’s always nice to get those little niggly jobs out of the way when the oportunity arises.

David.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to get the Powerlite starter motor on today, along with some new rear brake hard lines. Needed to lengthen the small cable to the starter motor and free the battery cable from the body clips so that it would reach. Need to watch the tension on that cable as I raise and reattach the gearbox.

911-1-3.jpg.ac23e1f3712485f3473c7829f8b0f30d.jpg

911-2.jpg.39401f882fe3e9677f52bce076f8d7bb.jpg

Edited by Chris_911
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2019 at 3:55 PM, Chris_911 said:

 

274360634_BeforeAFter-6.jpg.7bd2590dcf6692052fd09da1e6c1e50e.jpg

 

All looking great.

What is that clean metal shield type part to the left and why don't I have one on my car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Phill said:

All looking great.

What is that clean metal shield type part to the left and why don't I have one on my car?

That's part of the engine tinware. This piece was in a very poor state on my car so I replaced with new.

You probably don't have it because it has a strong tendency to rot away....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's there on my '84 3.2, but not on my '83 SC.

I always thought it was a heat shield to protect the flywheel and cylinder head sensors/wires on a 3.2

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, SilverWT said:

It's there on my '84 3.2, but not on my '83 SC.

I always thought it was a heat shield to protect the flywheel and cylinder head sensors/wires on a 3.2

 

Mark

Yep - its to protect the sensor cables

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed to spend a little time in the garage bleeding the rear brakes and clutch slave.

I have been suffering with a clutch pedal that was reluctant to return to its top stop. A couple of years ago I replaced the clutch slave and only bled this when it was on the car. I believe that this was a mistake as it is impossible to get the bleed nipple to be the highest point of the slave when it's on the car - meaning that it is likely that some air was trapped in the slave.

Anyway I removed the slave and bled it with the bleed nipple uppermost. Pedal seems excellent :) 

I'll bleed the front brakes when the car is moveable again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today's progress - Shiny new stainless steel heater control valves (aka flapper boxes) and cable covers.

I also hoped to get the gearbox bolted back up but hit a totally unexpected (and inexplicable?) problem. One of the gearbox crossmember bolts slips straight in but the other will only engage on what seems to be a cross thread. No idea what's going on there - bolt thread is perfect (bolts were renewed when I replaced the crossmember bushes not that long ago).

Have walked away from it for now.....

HCV-1.jpg.db53cd3d952047ee6719b72775e893e2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those gearbox mounting bolts and threads are a PITA and you really do have to get them perfectly aligned and go very slowly, hand tightening only to make sure that you are not cross threading them. When I put my engine back in a month or two ago this took a ridiculously long time and I told myself I would make a tool for this next time around!!

One thing that does help is loosening the crossmember bolts right off so you have as much play/adjustment as possible.

I don't know what stage of refit you are at but it may be worth supporting the gearbox,  taking the crossmember off and having a good look and feel of the thread with just the bolt on its own to see when & if it starts to go tight.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ALEX P said:

Those gearbox mounting bolts and threads are a PITA and you really do have to get them perfectly aligned and go very slowly, hand tightening only to make sure that you are not cross threading them. When I put my engine back in a month or two ago this took a ridiculously long time and I told myself I would make a tool for this next time around!!

One thing that does help is loosening the crossmember bolts right off so you have as much play/adjustment as possible.

I don't know what stage of refit you are at but it may be worth supporting the gearbox,  taking the crossmember off and having a good look and feel of the thread with just the bolt on its own to see when & if it starts to go tight.

Good luck!

Thanks Alex.

Actually managed to sort it very easily.

Backed off all of the bolts which gave some wiggle room on the crossmember. The troublesome bolt then threaded straight in with no problem.

Really surprised anything had gone out of alignment on the partial drop but you live and learn...

Currently battling to get the shift coupler to gear box bolt in. If it wasn't for the rubber boot I think this would be a 2 minute job.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its sorted now but just to add, i always copper slip those bolts. Ive seen them crossthreaded even drilled and retapped to the next size up more than once. A screwdriver with some tape on the shaft will center the box, so you can slip the bolts in. As as always make sure they are turning nice by hand before you get the ratchet on them, the copper slip helps you with that. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Ian Comerford said:

There’s a jubilee clip instead of the circlip?

Yep - forgot to put the bl@@dy clip on before I assembled the tubes. It's impossible to get on afterwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...