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ChrisW

The Eternal Corrosion Question ...

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I have a very nice 3.2 Jubilee Coupe which has had no bodywork.
It was in it's day a concourse car so had a full re-spray and has a consistent 350 microns paint thickness.
The bodywork is very solid and it's just flown through it's mot ... but !
Around the door shuts I'm just starting to see tiny blebs of corrosion which are still beneath the paint (I've known the car for five years !) and this is stopping form wanting to drive the car if there is any chance of rain.
I love the car. But how can I preserve it without taking the chance on having to slice out the originality of the car ? 
I could just ignore it until structural work is demanded but ?
What options ?
Thanks, Chris

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It will only get worse whether you drive it in the rain or not. Are you going to stop washing it too? If you are that concerned then bite the bullet and get it looked at. You say the body work is very solid but if you've got rust starting to show then there will be worse below. Sorry to be a bit down on it but all cars rust eventually and need work.

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+1 live with it and enjoy it until you reach the point you can no longer tolerate the bubbles  or sort the problem and respray to concours , You can try and treat locally but will compromise paint finish and will have to live with the inevitable  touch ups , not so easy especially if metalic  paint . They were all concours once ,  but can be made so again in the future . .    no easy answer to this one .   Pics are always good .

Edited by Henry
wrong

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Any corrosion you can see from the outside means a lot of grief underneath, dont worry, its perfectly normal and we have all been there.Either live with it until you want it done or do it now.

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Thanks, this was the type of feedback I was looking for.

It is getting worse even though it isn't driven in the rain ... and I am careful how I wash it ...

 

I will post some pics  ....

Edited by ChrisW
I will post some pics !

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Rust kicks in at about 70% humidity, it doesnt need to get wet!

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Fix it now rather than later - it will be much cheaper in the long run and you should be able to use and enjoy your beloved 911 with peace of mind!

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16 minutes ago, Richot1989 said:

Fix it now rather than later - it will be much cheaper in the long run and you should be able to use and enjoy your beloved 911 with peace of mind!

I say the opposite - drive the crap out of it now, use it every day, go on a ton of road trips, take some stuff to the tip, let some trusted friends / relatives enjoy it and once you get bored of driving then get the rust and paint sorted, tuck it up in a dehumidified garage and save it for special occasions.

If you are paranoid about getting it wet now that will be 10x as bad once you have spanked a load of cash on the bodywork and you will just use it even less.

 

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2 hours ago, jevvy said:

once you have spanked a load of cash on the bodywork and you will just use it even less.

This was true for me until I got the first stone chips - no I don’t give a flying...

Ssshhh - I don’t even wash it!

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2 hours ago, jevvy said:

 

If you are paranoid about getting it wet now that will be 10x as bad once you have spanked a load of cash on the bodywork and you will just use it even less.

 

Interestingly I think I am the polar opposite of this,  as since the bodywork was done I have no rust and therefore am happier to use it.  We did 7500 miles last year 

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^^^ and if you fit the arch liners it’s even more useable...

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Once corrosion starts it’s difficult to slow down without getting it fixed. Once repaired you can enjoy your car without the worry of further deterioration. 

If you have visible rust and rot that there is also good chance that further investigation will find more tinworm hiding on hidden and internal sections. 

 

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Bodyshops are a PITA and will probably have it for longer than they estimate so you don't want it gone all summer then get it back for winter when you probably won't use it so much.

If you want to get it fixed then find yourself the right place for you to do the work and book it in for the winter. A lot of decent bodyshops will have a waiting list anyway.

Until then just enjoy the thing.

 

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10 minutes ago, ALEX P said:

Bodyshops are a PITA and will probably have it for longer than they estimate...

Bodyshop quoting rule number one: tell the customer a timescale that would be possible only if you only worked on their car and nothing else. After the car arrives, take it apart quickly so it looks like something is happening. Then leave it gathering dust in the corner until the owner becomes so irate you feel you should finish it...

 

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3 minutes ago, mean in green said:

Bodyshop quoting rule number one: tell the customer a timescale that would be possible only if you only worked on their car and nothing else. After the car arrives, take it apart quickly so it looks like something is happening. Then leave it gathering dust in the corner until the owner becomes so irate you feel you should finish it...

Unfortunately there's never been a truer word spoken. In my experience they're all the same when it comes to timescales. Whatever they quote double it and lean on them constantly or you'll stay at the back of the pile.

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6 minutes ago, mean in green said:

Bodyshop quoting rule number one: tell the customer a timescale that would be possible only if you only worked on their car and nothing else. After the car arrives, take it apart quickly so it looks like something is happening. Then leave it gathering dust in the corner until the owner becomes so irate you feel you should finish it...

 

Not just bodyshops...

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Get it fixed now, and then Dinitrol treated straightaway. I can tell you from experience that this is vital. Also, Porsche have joined the classic cars panels gravy train and costs are going up all the time.

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Kidney bowl, B post and at least some of the inner sill around the jacking point needed there.

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Nooo! If it were mine, I’d get it fixed now. Can you see the rust from inside the wheel arch? This is a weak spot for rust. Kidney bowls, etc... My 74 was really bad and only visible once the outer panels were removed. Hopefully you will catch it earlier than I did.

 

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As Phill, Matt and others have stated, get it fixed as soon as practical. It will not get better by itself, needs surgery and then preventative measures from then on! (Dinitrol etc). Please don’t be paranoid about driving your car in the wet, in our bl@@dy climate, you will hardly ever be behind the wheel.....this is not California....!, Salt is the real killer on our roads....rather not go into that....!! After washing your car, go for a longish drive to blow out the residual water, park up in the garage and sleep soundly. No harm will come to your pride and joy. Better treat the car that way rather than *beep* footing around, enjoy the experience. Would you have a house that you do not live in?....or a Wife that you do not sleep with?

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18 hours ago, David Gander said:

As Phill, Matt and others have stated, get it fixed as soon as practical. It will not get better by itself, needs surgery and then preventative measures from then on! (Dinitrol etc). Please don’t be paranoid about driving your car in the wet, in our bl@@dy climate, you will hardly ever be behind the wheel.....this is not California....!, Salt is the real killer on our roads....rather not go into that....!! After washing your car, go for a longish drive to blow out the residual water, park up in the garage and sleep soundly. No harm will come to your pride and joy. Better treat the car that way rather than *beep* footing around, enjoy the experience. Would you have a house that you do not live in?....or a Wife that you do not sleep with?

Wise words, agreed

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Diamond Blue can’t be the easiest to paint match, so you may be looking at larger areas rather than isolated repairs.  

Personally, after going through the same thing on mine a few years ago, id get it done sooner than later.  I was amazed at how bad mine was although it was showing worse than yours. 

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On 5/4/2019 at 7:40 PM, ChrisW said:

I have a very nice 3.2 Jubilee Coupe which has had no bodywork
The bodywork is very solid
I could just ignore it until structural work is demanded

Sorry Chris but......

It needs it now,

No it's not,

It's demanded now........

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