hagarep Posted January 7, 2022 Author Share Posted January 7, 2022 Pics from Carrera Performance on latest status of engine. Bottom end all good. Heads rebuilt and ARP head studs fitted. Just waiting on rings for the 3.2 pistons! Gearbox not started yet and I have a lot to do, getting parts coated and engine bay tidy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugs 77 Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 This is a bit of deja vu for me at the moment, will be watching with interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Engine back from Carrera Performance, with ARP head studs, 10.3:1 compression, lightweight flywheel and Sachs Power clutch kit! Gearbox stripped and surprisingly OK apart from worn synchros. Unfortunately crownwheel and pinion were badly worn due to poor mesh and a cheap bearing. So waiting for replacement parts coming from the very helpful Raymond (Boydyrs) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northy Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 You're going to love that engine. The lightweight flywheel and clutch really makes the engine wang up quick. Presume you've also got the 5 blade fan on yours? Keep the updates coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 Engine is mostly finished, just a few bits to add that were being plated. Can’t fit the tinware until i drop it onto my new wilco dolly, but did manage to replace all remaining seals and hoses to stop dreaded air/vac leaks. Even replaced the seal on the oil tank cap and the main breather pipe. Also did the inlet rocker covers in black crinkle and machined the Porsche logo. Quite pleased with the look. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichD1 Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 On 07/01/2022 at 13:21, hagarep said: Pics from Carrera Performance on latest status of engine. Bottom end all good. Heads rebuilt and ARP head studs fitted. Just waiting on rings for the 3.2 pistons! Gearbox not started yet and I have a lot to do, getting parts coated and engine bay tidy. Do you know if they vapour blasted the pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted March 11, 2022 Author Share Posted March 11, 2022 I'll find out for you Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share Posted February 8, 2023 (edited) I can't believe it's been nearly a year since I last posted anything about the car. Took most of last year to gather several missing bits for the engine. I changed all seals and hoses, fitted new sensors. Replaced the rear tinware then had it blasted and powder coated. Tidied the engine bay, did some paint and undersealing as well as fitting a new foam pad to the bulkhead and new seals surrounding the engine bay to tinware. Repaired the studs for the heater flapper boxes (more on this later) and fitted the engine just before Christmas. Then exhaust, drive shafts, clutch linkage, throttle linkage, starter and gearbox wiring. That just leaves me: heater cables, engine wiring and rear bumper/valance. Both of which are currently away for paint. Hopefully will crank for oil pressure this weekend and then check fuel pressures again. I still think the WUR needs a rebuild. Just received new number plates from Retro Plates with the original Dick Lovett details on them. Very happy! Edited February 8, 2023 by hagarep 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share Posted February 8, 2023 (edited) First snag. Rear bumper tubes are only available with one part number to cover 1974 to 1989 and come with an M12 stud to mount to the body. Unfortunately 1974 to 1977 cars actually used an M8 stud, so out with the hacksaw and TIG. Edited February 8, 2023 by hagarep 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 15, 2023 Author Share Posted February 15, 2023 (edited) Who can spot the mistake on my fuel pipe to the cold start valve? Better investigate repairing it because they are very pricey compared to some of the other fuel lines. Edited February 15, 2023 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Comerford Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 Just make sure that whatever you buy is ethanol resistant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 20, 2023 Author Share Posted February 20, 2023 Managed to get a new pipe from Porsche for £154 with club discount. Fuel leak now sorted. Tried cranking but not even a cough, so maybe timing is 180 deg. out? Wound it round to 5 deg BTDC and realise the starter pinion is just catching the ring gear. Remember it has a light flywheel, Power clutch and lightweight starter, although I suspect the flywheel. Going to make a couple of shims from 1.5mm ally sheet to space the starter back a bit. Fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 Decided whilst waiting for ally sheet to arrive, to fix the broken studs on my C3 rear spoiler rubber lip! 3 of 4 M5 studs are broken so I have got some M8 stud, cut to 25mm, then drilled and tapped to M5 internally. These are then sleeved over the old studs and the holes on the fibreglass part opened out to match. I also added rivnuts in place of the self tapping screw holes for the side fixings. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat fuchs Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 Nice repair on the spoiler! Great work 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 24, 2023 Author Share Posted February 24, 2023 Thanks. I did the same repair for a couple of studs that retain the heater flapper boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted February 24, 2023 Author Share Posted February 24, 2023 (edited) Rear bumper and valance back from paint today. Everything will get a two stage polish and two coats of ceramic once i get the thing running again! Edited February 24, 2023 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted April 19, 2023 Author Share Posted April 19, 2023 A quick clean and polish, good enough for a muddy field at Goodwood, but no significant testing since the engine and gearbox went back in and slow speed driving is quite poor with lots of bucking at 1500-2000 rpm and often dying when coming off throttle, even with an 1100-1200 rpm tick over. End result, it stayed in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted April 19, 2023 Author Share Posted April 19, 2023 Initially I was sure i had a fault with my WUR as my side port did nothing with a vacuum applied and I was only using the Klassik Automotive videos on you tube. It turns out that most info is based on SC's but '76-'77 cars use a different WUR with different vacuum plumbing. I have gone over the workshop manual, the CIS primer website and most usefully, Northy's post 911SC bucking at 1500 revs which contains a lot of useful info from Luke. Having confirmed my WUR and vac plumbing is OK (I also bought a smoke machine to check for air leaks) I have now realised that I should be setting my cold control pressure with a vacuum of 18" HG applied to the top port, so fingers crossed for the next test. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Two months since my last post and the car is still not running correctly, although I have solved a couple of issues. At fully warmed up temp the oil tank was a little too high and some oil made it's way in to the air box. Draining it back to mid-way on the gauge solved this and seemed to reduce the CO by 1% (confirmed on my latest acquisition, a Blue Point CO meter. The Crypton 4 gas does not fully work.) so some was getting burnt. I also removed or tested every single component of the injection system, apart from the metering head itself. I did do the flap, piston and general air box. Most of this was checked when the engine was being re-assembled but paranoia has well and truly set in at this point. A long chat with Steve at KMI suggested that the WUR pressures should be lower than Porsche say for 74-77 cars, which will richen the mixture. I have done this but will still send my WUR to KMI for refurbishment shortly. I replaced all the injectors, because I didn't know how old they were and then set idle CO to 4% . The last test drive showed a significant improvement, but after all of the pressure testing, the pump has started to get very noisy intermittently, so a replacement is coming from KMI and will be fitted tomorrow, along with an inline filter. I have been invited to "display" the car at the Goodwood breakfast club on Sunday 25th, so fingers crossed it can make the trip! Edited June 21, 2023 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted June 28, 2023 Author Share Posted June 28, 2023 Didn't take the car to Goodwood, even though I got the new pump and filter added. The banjo bolt for the LH cam feed will not torque and is weeping oil. One of a couple of minor weeps, but this one is new. The engine cuts out when coming off throttle/coming to stop. This is intermittent and the idle speed adjuster is also almost completely wound out and seems to make little difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 (edited) Got a nice present from Santa this Christmas! One fully rebuilt metering head. Edited January 2 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Comerford Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Hope this has as big an effect as mine did. Once fitted it took a while to get it running, guess that was due to the fuel needing to fill the head and pipes back up. I should probably have tried the ignition on and lifting the plate as usual. Anyway it started eventually and ran much better, even better again once the CO level was reset at my MoT garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 (edited) Still need to rebuild the WUR. The metering head was damaged, probably by my cheap pressure gauge fittings, resulting in no pressure to one side and the air flap oscillating. One fitting did snap so i machined a new one from brass which matches the dimensions on the Porsche part. Edited January 3 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Out with the old and in with the new! On top of this, I bought a WUR rebuild kit from ebay, and have been adjusting and swapping parts repeatedly to achieve the recommended pressures suggested by KMI. Hot and cold pressures are relatively easy, but hot plus vacuum has been far more tricky to get right. Now for a test drive and CO setting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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