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14 hours ago, TGJR said:

I think mine are more like 10mm above bottom edge of doors. I sense another attempt is needed!

Thanks for the correct instructions 

10mm may be a little low, but I think they look better on the low side vs the 50mm guidance.  If you look at the 3.0RS pic, I reckon they are more like 30mm above the bottom of the doors.  IMHO, its more about what you think looks good than being right.  I have always stuck my decals lower than the guidance as it has the visual effect of lowering and elongating the car a little.  IMHO, of course.

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Need to finish cutting and polishing to remove 8 years of garage scratches, plus add side scripts.

That looks absolutely lovely with the wheels and bright trim. Good job. Got my decals on with help from the missus, followed by a long but necessary drive to Morrisons with my daughter. Jaso

In the middle of set up. Excessive track rod angle requires an adjustable bump steer kit and oldest tyre is 12 years old so all 4 SO2’s with plenty of tread have to go scrap. Hard to find a matching s

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1 hour ago, Richard Bernau said:

10mm may be a little low, but I think they look better on the low side vs the 50mm guidance.  If you look at the 3.0RS pic, I reckon they are more like 30mm above the bottom of the doors.  IMHO, its more about what you think looks good than being right.  I have always stuck my decals lower than the guidance as it has the visual effect of lowering and elongating the car a little.  IMHO, of course.

When researching this I have noticed that many of the 3.0 RS's and IROC's have them mounted lower, whilst 2.7 RS's seem to always be at 50mm. If you look at the Mexbrough blue RHD 3.0 RS recently restored by Maxted-Page to concours condition I am sure, the stripes are at 50mm but prior to the resto were mounted lower. The white car is unrestored, but the stripes are lower and longer than those used on a 2.7 RS. For our cars, as Richard said, personal preference is more important than historical accuracy.

My scripts have actually cost £150 plus shipping. I'm sure this sounds expensive, but...

1) The accuracy of the font is perfect. I could also have chosen the exact gold with black outline used originally be Porsche (as Highgate have scanned original cars to reproduce the 3.0RS scripts for a recent high end restoration). Unfortunately I painted the wheels to match the previous gold I had chosen.

2) The gold I wanted was no longer available. Highgate have sent me 3 scripts using all remaining vinyl, but it is 6 years old and the disposal age is usually 3 years. If I have problems, as I did with the 8 year old ones, then will send me 2 further scripts in a different shade, for no extra charge. Plus I got a bottle of FastTack fitting spray.

I agree the price seems high but I do think the service is worth it.

 

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On 21/05/2020 at 11:32, Richard Bernau said:

10mm may be a little low, but I think they look better on the low side vs the 50mm guidance.  If you look at the 3.0RS pic, I reckon they are more like 30mm above the bottom of the doors.  IMHO, its more about what you think looks good than being right.  I have always stuck my decals lower than the guidance as it has the visual effect of lowering and elongating the car a little.  IMHO, of course.

So I went for 40mm up from door bottoms. Its a tricky job but managed it without ruining any decals and only a couple of little air bubbles near the rear arch which I can live with. These decals were suppled by Type 911 (£50) and I am happy with their quality. 

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That looks absolutely lovely with the wheels and bright trim. Good job.

Got my decals on with help from the missus, followed by a long but necessary drive to Morrisons with my daughter.

Jason

D9523BDF-945F-4818-9DEB-7E123D46DE83.jpeg

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1 hour ago, hagarep said:

That looks absolutely lovely with the wheels and bright trim. Good job.

Got my decals on with help from the missus, followed by a long but necessary drive to Morrisons with my daughter.

Jason

D9523BDF-945F-4818-9DEB-7E123D46DE83.jpeg

Looks great!

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6 hours ago, JLewis said:

Looks great!

Yes, that is a very nice combination. Gold works so well with black.

Enjoy those long drives!

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10 hours ago, hagarep said:

That looks absolutely lovely with the wheels and bright trim. Good job.

Got my decals on with help from the missus, followed by a long but necessary drive to Morrisons with my daughter.

Jason

D9523BDF-945F-4818-9DEB-7E123D46DE83.jpeg

Black and Gold 😍

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On 26/05/2020 at 12:10, hagarep said:

That looks absolutely lovely with the wheels and bright trim. Good job.

Got my decals on with help from the missus, followed by a long but necessary drive to Morrisons with my daughter.

Jason

D9523BDF-945F-4818-9DEB-7E123D46DE83.jpeg

Lovely! 

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Went out on Sunday to get a few pics, mainly for insurance valuation. My neighbour came along as he likes to do a bit of photography. Sunroof drive slipping, speedo under reading significantly, engine lumpy on a light throttle and a loud rattle when i went over cobblestones that need to be investigated asap. It's still fidgety under power too. Maybe the camber but I cant say its relaxing to drive like that. A sample of the arty pics with some sort of filter applied I guess.

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3 minutes ago, hagarep said:

Went out on Sunday to get a few pics, mainly for insurance valuation. My neighbour came along as he likes to do a bit of photography. Sunroof drive slipping, speedo under reading significantly, engine lumpy on a light throttle and a loud rattle when i went over cobblestones that need to be investigated asap. It's still fidgety under power too. Maybe the camber but I cant say its relaxing to drive like that. A sample of the arty pics with some sort of filter applied I guess.

WWTN9229.JPG

 

 

Quite simply the best interior on an IB :whistling:

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  • 5 weeks later...

Ok, so it’s a little bit tarty and a lot of money, plus it took 9 months from first chat on Facebook to arrival, but I couldn’t resist it.

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Edited by hagarep
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That is nice you old tart.

I've got a similar one but I would prefer it if my knob was a bit bigger.

It's a perennial problem I suppose.

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  • 1 month later...
On 04/07/2020 at 13:36, tea boy said:

That is nice you old tart.

I've got a similar one but I would prefer it if my knob was a bit bigger.

It's a perennial problem I suppose.

To quote my wife " I did expect it to be a bit bigger, but it does the job I suppose"

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The recent trip to the pub with the South East group highlighted very poor low speed running. Further tuning and test drives have not improved things. I remembered the CO reading was very low compared to my original set up, so I thought I would check for air leaks. Brake cleaner sprayed around the injectors increased the revs a little. More spray on the 1-3 intake manifold sleeves produced a much higher response. Spraying the same sleeves for 4-6 made the engine nearly stall, followed by a large sucking noise and the revs shooting up. In summary. I can't find anywhere that isn't leaking air in.

Full system removal this weekend. new gaskets, injector sleeves and seals plus manifold sleeves to install. Might as well clean everything, including injectors which, after Phil's throttle body experience, will now go in a 3l ultrasonic cleaner I picked up second hand this week. Pics to follow.

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  • 2 months later...

I have now successfully replaced all of the gaskets and rubber components in the K Jetronic system, although it took 3 attempts to refit. I took the system out piece by piece but soon realised I had to refit it as one complete system due to access issues at the rear and underneath the air box. Initial CO reading was 20% which shows how much air had been leaking, but i adjusted it to 4% and drove it gently in to work on Saturday.

On Sunday, I decided to clean the spark plugs and fine tune it again. Difficulties getting the spark plug tool to fit, soon led to the realisation that i had an additional 3 broken head studs, taking the total to at least 4, as I haven't removed the lower covers yet. I'm left with little choice but to take the car off the road again, having failed to attend a single event this year, and strip the engine.

I have the tools and knowledge to rebuild the engine, but uncertainty over renewal of my contract, means the money and timing are not great. Regardless I will remove the engine, with the aim of having it stripped, leaned and measured by Christmas. Plans include ARP head studs, Triumph throttle bodies and some new cams. The rest will depend on what I find. I'll continue this in the engine section and try to document and photo everything.

At least Matt should have a good Christmas with all of the parts I shall need to order from him!

Jason.

 

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That's a bugger Jason. 

Has the bottom end been done before? or can you get away with just doing the top end?  They are amazingly resilient old lumps.  I had the bottom end done on my car (friend of my brothers) - I drove it to Le Mans and back and it was making a weird chuffing sound, but still pulling OK.  Turned out he'd balls'd it up and all of the nuts on the end of the head studs were loose or off 😮. Tuthill's sorted it for me and were very fair, matching a used piston and barrel for my car rather than making me spring for all new everything.  That was probably 40K miles ago now.  

Whilst it's apart, I can help you spend more money and thoroughly recommend a Sachs power clutch and LWT flywheel. It's great 🙂

Also be great to follow on another ITB conversion.  One day I'll get to that. 

Keep posting - it's great to see it. 

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That's bad luck Jason. I hope your contract is renewed and then everyone can suggest you do all the extra things you can't really afford or need to do like cams, pistons, cylinders, boat tailing, lightening and balancing, blue printing, new exhaust, lightweight flywheel, valves, rings, springs and of course polishing all the bits you can't see. I'm sure I've missed something...........

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Thanks Phill

I think cams is a must to go with the ITB's

Pistons and cylinders - I have a receipt from Dick Lovett saying 3.2 barrels and pistons fitted, so compression should be 10.3:1. If they are serviceable then they stay.

Boat tailing and mooning the barrels I can do myself. I have the 6 bolt crank so no lightening except a Power clutch. Everything will be balanced. 

The time has come for headers or an SSI exhaust and silencer.

I think that's it as I have to get the gearbox rebuilt as well. Some worn synchro's and very whiney diff. Plus Wavetec LSD of course.

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  • 6 months later...

Had a recent change in employment resulting in a significant decrease in income. This means the engine rebuild is on hold for this year. Instead i will limit things to a few trips out to Goodwood and other events, whilst keeping the revs under control.

However, as i am getting my rear ARB plated/anodised. I thought I would take the opportunity to brighten up a couple of parts in the engine bay that needed a new coat of zinc phosphate. I will also have the fan and hosing chromate dipped and fit an early style pulley I bought years ago. I have already separated the fan and look forward to trying to rivet it back together.

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