Jump to content
Impact Bumpers
Mobydick

Dripping Sump plug after oil change

Recommended Posts

I’ve changed the oil and the sump plug seems to be dripping. 

Should I just drain it again and change the aluminium washer again?

ive tried tightening it a little more (from70nm to 73nm) -although it improved things, it didn’t stop it completely. 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a plan - only comment I would make issue whether you wanted to consider an EZ or Fumoto valve while you're on. Keep planning it myself but always forget to get one to have on hand when doing a change,! - was only planning this for my oil tank though!

Edited by Roy M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you clean the sump and bolt really well before reinstalling? Maybe a bit of grit under the washer. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well? are you sure you have removed the old alu seal? Sometimes they get stuck and when you install new on top of it it will leak

 

Ivan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Roy M said:

 EZ or Fumoto valve

Not wishing to divert the thread but like the look of these. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have seen bad pranks with these valve anybody on the street can open it and drain your engine;-)

Ivan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BusyBee - I think you are probably right. I did clean it well, but I’m guessing it got some contamination on it anyway.  Otherwise I have a more serious thread issue  

Roy - thanks for the fumouto valve idea - these look to lower the risk of stripping threads etc. 

Ivan - the old washer was definitely removed - there is only one on there now!  Thanks for the warning on the fumuto valve - I think in my case, the risk of stripping threads in the Ali case, or the problem I have now, is much higher than someone playing that prank and draining my oil ......but I could be wrong!

Is the torque setting if 70Nm on the crankcase correct?  Whilst doing a search on, I discovered a thread on here that stated the manual was wrong and it should be much lower?

What size of Fumoto valve would I need for tank and crankcase? Has anyone used these... do they leak when older?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Mobydick said:

What size of Fumoto valve would I need for tank and crankcase? Has anyone used these... do they leak when older?

You're just adding a problem that doesn't exist :twocents:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's a 22mm X 1.5 - an ez-7b equivalent. Seem popular on Pelican so a search should confirm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't fit one of those drain valves to a central heating system never mind a 911 engine! A piece of junk that any self respecting Indy would throw in the bin at the next service. 

Washers that have been left in place may have been there for years as they can be very hard to see and remove even with a picker tool.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moby..i have never ever used a torque wrench on drain plug!! just use common sense and make it hand tight..show me the oil leak ..you have changed the drain plug for something else??

Ivan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ras62 said:

I wouldn't fit one of those drain valves to a central heating system never mind a 911 engine! A piece of junk that any self respecting Indy would throw in the bin at the next service. 

Washers that have been left in place may have been there for years as they can be very hard to see and remove even with a picker tool.

Whilst I would always respect others opinions I must disagree here. In my view these are soundly engineered options with good reviews for this application. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A new washer and a smear of 574 on both sides of the washer if you have to, belts and braces. You could probally just jack the car up high on its side (be carefull now), and measure just the 1-2 litres you would lose, then top up the oil tank rather than a full change. most will be in the tank rather than the crankcase, unless its been sitting a while, and worked through the oil pump. 

I personally always use a torque wrench, i have all sizes and keep them calibrated. You can of course just feel you way, but i have to say for years I undertorqued the little 10mm sump nuts on my vw's only when I started using a torque wrench did i realise 10nm is a bit more!! Since then I always used a torque wrench. And of course everything has to be CLEAN, and FLAT

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Roy M said:

Whilst I would always respect others opinions I must disagree here. In my view these are soundly engineered options with good reviews for this application. 

Well Roy I would love to know what rating these valves have that you can make such assuring comment? API or ASME? What seat material is used.....is it easily damaged by fine metal particles etc etc. You are introducing a potential leak path where none previously existed. No magnet to inspect. Vulnerable to damage. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, ras62 said:

Well Roy I would love to know what rating these valves have that you can make such assuring comment? API or ASME? What seat material is used.....is it easily damaged by fine metal particles etc etc. You are introducing a potential leak path where none previously existed. No magnet to inspect. Vulnerable to damage. 

Don't buy one then. If someone else wants to give it a try then let them. That way we all get feedback, good or bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ras62 said:

Well Roy I would love to know what rating these valves have that you can make such assuring comment? API or ASME? What seat material is used.....is it easily damaged by fine metal particles etc etc. You are introducing a potential leak path where none previously existed. No magnet to inspect. Vulnerable to damage. 

I think the thing you that is common here is your A - American standards don't mean anything to me I'm afraid. Ez valves use Viton seals Fumoto a fibre gasket and both have industrial as well as automotive uses over a good few years - as Phil says if you don't want one don't buy one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

moby..still waiting an answer from you...did you change the drain plug to something aftermarket?

 

Ivan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My car came fitted with these, my indy threw them in the bin. Take a look at the minimum and maximum temperatures for viton O rings and Teflon valve seats. Viton gets brittle at -15C and Teflon seats are rare to be rated over 150C, a temperature easily reached should shings go wrong on an aircooled motor. 

https://www.valvesonline.co.uk/manual-valves/ball-valves/brass.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I would leave another day and see if the leak stopped - it didn’t. 

However, I drained the oil this evening and replaced with a new washer.  It’s been a few hours now, and no leaks!

I took Ivan’s advice and just did it up by hand.... I just have a feeling the torque wrench setting of 70Nm is too much.

Will check it tomorrow and will let you know if it’s looking good still. 

 

6C4C096F-B9E7-43CE-82E6-52AF0238B246.jpeg

And Ivan - no I’ve not changed the drain plug recently, but did a few years back. Thanks. M 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Mobydick said:

I drained the oil this evening and replaced with a new washer.  It’s been a few hours now, and no leaks!

Just checking you did put oil back in the engine...? :signs71:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure I can agree with the temperatures you quote to be honest.

Teflon : "mechanical properties are low compared to other plastics, but its properties remain at a useful level over a wide temperature range of of -100°F to +400°F (-73°C to 204°C)."

Viton "Viton® temperature rating. Depending on the grade the working temperaturerange is considered to be -26°C to +205°/230°C (-15°F to +400°/440°F). But for short working periods it will take even higher temperatures"

I'd be concerned if engine temperatures reached 150c particularly where these would be located 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Mobydick said:

I thought I would leave another day and see if the leak stopped - it didn’t. 

However, I drained the oil this evening and replaced with a new washer.  It’s been a few hours now, and no leaks!

I took Ivan’s advice and just did it up by hand.... I just have a feeling the torque wrench setting of 70Nm is too much.

Will check it tomorrow and will let you know if it’s looking good still. 

 

6C4C096F-B9E7-43CE-82E6-52AF0238B246.jpeg

And Ivan - no I’ve not changed the drain plug recently, but did a few years back. Thanks. M 

Correct torque is 37 ft lb or 50 NM.  Please dont leave hand tight😱

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ras 62....you are wrong, the correct book torque is 70...but i recommend only hand tight- it must be tight of course- ..I have probably done in 38 years over 3000 oil changes so i think i do know a little about the drain plugs requirements;-)

 

Ivan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First rule of IB, you don't mess with Ivan. Second rule of IB, you don't mess with Ivan 😂🤐

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't think I've ever torqued a sump plug up before.  Always a new washer(s) if to hand, but even without I've never noticed leaking plugs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...