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Guys, don't mix things up.

An SC, or 3.2, with the brass cooler set up is more than capable of keeping temps under control. If something is wrong a standard part is not working properly. Investigation and rectification should be the target, not trying to make improvements to overcome a defect.

Have you checked the on engine cooler is working OK?

Regarding air ducting and fans, the two types of cooler in question are very different in function.

The brass tube cooler is a radiator, i.e. it radiates heat and does not depend on air flow so much.

The later matrix cooler is a heat exchanger. It does depend predominantly on a flow of air across the metal surfaces to transfer the heat it has gained from the hot oil to the air flowing across it.

Ducting, fans etc can all make a big difference to the efficiency of the matrix heat exchanger, but give little gain for the brass tube type radiator.

 

Mark

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Some race cars run two coolers, one in each wing, with transfer pipes running through the bonnet (hood).

I’m sure Elephant racing do the kit, remember seeing it before I chose their fan kit

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33 minutes ago, SilverWT said:

Guys, don't mix things up.

An SC, or 3.2, with the brass cooler set up is more than capable of keeping temps under control. If something is wrong a standard part is not working properly. Investigation and rectification should be the target, not trying to make improvements to overcome a defect.

Have you checked the on engine cooler is working OK?

Regarding air ducting and fans, the two types of cooler in question are very different in function.

The brass tube cooler is a radiator, i.e. it radiates heat and does not depend on air flow so much.

The later matrix cooler is a heat exchanger. It does depend predominantly on a flow of air across the metal surfaces to transfer the heat it has gained from the hot oil to the air flowing across it.

Ducting, fans etc can all make a big difference to the efficiency of the matrix heat exchanger, but give little gain for the brass tube type radiator.

 

Mark

Sorry but I’m struggling with the difference between a radiator and a heat exchanger? Just semantics?

In this comparison the finned oil cooler has much more surface area but fundamentally they’re both trying to transfer their heat to the cooler surrounding air. Surely the more of that cooler surrounding air is available the more heat is dissipated?

That said I would agree that adding a fan (or otherwise trying to greatly increase the airflow) to the brass tube cooler is of much less use than adding it to a finned oil cooler because the airflow will simply take the path of least resistance between the tubes.

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Sorry, my comment on adding a fan was due to me seeing the photo of the later 3.2 cooler and thinking that was on your car! As you say, with the earlier type a fan probably wont do much!

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I also assume you had the later rad cooler and not brass tube.

So perhaps the first port of call is to change to finned rad (believe this is possible) and/or as it make sense "while I'm in there" to add the fan as well.

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2 minutes ago, Beaky said:

So perhaps the first port of call is to change to finned rad

First port of call should be - identify and fix the issue with the std set up!

Mark

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10 hours ago, SilverWT said:

First port of call should be - identify and fix the issue with the std set up!

Mark

I agree!

Although, how serious is the issue? On a 16 deg ambient temperature day, should I be able to drive indefinitely without overheating on a slow-speed track with about 80% wide-open throttle? (on a 1980 SC with stock 188 hp engine and 28-tube brass cooler)

 

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  • 11 months later...

It's been a while but I finally got to check the oil temperature gauge. I submerged the oil sensor of the engine on a little pan with olive oil heated to 150 C and monitored the car temperature gauge as the oil cooled down. Sensor and gauge seem ok so it appears that the car's oil was indeed running hot after 5 fast laps at about 30 deg ambient temperature.

The brass tube radiator up front was very hot when I checked with an IR thermometer. What would be the next thing to check in your opinion? Is there a way to check that the engine oil cooler is working properly?

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