Jump to content

It's that time of (3-4) year(s) - MOT failure


Recommended Posts

In a departure from the usual IB tradition of confirming your car has passed it's MOT, mine failed today.  It was something I was expecting given the car hasn't moved for getting on for 4 years.  Nothing too major, at least I think that's the case.  The list:

Wipers sitting too high when parked.

Windscreen washer not working (I thought this morning, should I check that before I take her in?  Nah says I.  Idiot!)

NSR wheel bearing.

Front brakes imbalanced

Handbrake not working properly.

Nothing much there that should be a big problem on the face of it.  Are the rear wheel bearings an OK job?  Chap that did it used to work on 356's so was happy to have something 'simpler' to get on the ramps.  A couple of advisories that I can do while doing the other jobs.

Now, to do some shopping!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, R2D2 said:

Kev

Thats not bad. Mine once "failed" because the wipers were not cleaning the screen well enough...... the bloke clearly had never driven an old 911!

Cheers Nathan, they're lucky the wiper blades actually touch the screen ;)  My chap did originally fail it on the rear fog as well, until I showed him that you twist the switch for the rears.  Not too unhappy given it's has been sitting around idle, just need to make sure I keep using it.

And he was OK with my LED fogs in the RS bumper, so one thing I thought I'd need to uninstall that I can leave in place :)

Edited by Fuchs915
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, SP72 said:

Why the lack of use Kevin - you were doing some bodywork iirc? 

I thought the rear bearing where quite painful on our cars, could be wrong? Interested as sure my NSR needs doing.

I did one of the kidneys and started a couple of other jobs, then life got in the way, etc. The wheel bearings don't seem too difficult (famous last words!), need some leverage for some of the nuts and something to remove /insert the bearing, maybe a little heat.  There's a few 'how to' threads on here/Pelican which include home-brew tools for the job.

14 hours ago, jevvy said:

why did it fail on rear wheel bearing? Play? They sound like thunder before they fail and even then they have very little 'wiggle'.

Failed on noise, Jev, so on it's way out.  I'll order 2 new bearings and see how I get on with the first and maybe do the other side as well.

11 hours ago, ALEX P said:

Is that even a thing?

Did they say what the pass fail criteria was for a parked wiper?

They sit high, so it was considered an obstructed view.  They definitely need adjusting as the park position isn't at the end of the sweep, if that makes sense.  When you switch them on they go lower before sweeping back across the screen.  They have always been like this and I just assumed it was a quirk but reading the reverse threads, seems they can be adjusted so a quick fix.  Might do the reverse so they sit on the passengers side while I am at it.

Busy weekend ahead.

Cheers

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Nige said:

Sounds more like the arms just need repositioning.

It may be a combination, Nige, but they park before the sweep is complete so will need to get that sorted.  

1 minute ago, Chris T said:

Find a taller tester.

The right answer!  He is quite a bit shorter than me and with a saggy driver's seat, I guess it was inevitable.  Maybe I should dig out one of the kids old booster seats ;) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kevin if you need a hand when you get round to doing the bearing then give me a shout and I’ll pop over. Not done before but would like to see/help getting it done. 

If the parts come through quickly enough, I am hoping to get it done, with the other jobs that it needs, at the weekend. You’re more than welcome to come over, any help provided will be paid in beer / food [emoji1360]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jevvy posted a good how to on replacing the rear bearings and the DIY puller required.  Was some years back so a deep search required.

Thanks Nige, I’ll have a look see if I can find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you need extra leverage, I have a monster 1 inch square drive breaker bar and 35mm socket. I needed this for the 924 hub nuts. Not sure its the same set up for the 911 as I got Cambridge OPC to do mine a while back so I could get a 'free' 991 loan car for the weekend. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuchs915 I did the wheel bearings with a combination of 16 or 20mm studding and various 2 1/2 or 3 inch pipe fittings. Biggest faff was getting the brake shields off, steel to alloy growing together. I think I have still got the tool that I made so could take a picture if you are stuck.

Baz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuchs915 I did the wheel bearings with a combination of 16 or 20mm studding and various 2 1/2 or 3 inch pipe fittings. Biggest faff was getting the brake shields off, steel to alloy growing together. I think I have still got the tool that I made so could take a picture if you are stuck.
Baz
 

Thanks Baz, a picture would help. I found a pic of the home brew tool Max Diesel used for his which might be similar to yours, couldn’t find a pic of Jevvy’s. Trying to find suitable sized pipe fittings appears my biggest challenge, especially when I don’t know what I am really after. I have found some stainless ones, but they are not cheap and for a little bit more money and less hassle I can get a kit that should do most of what I think I need to do.
Cheers
Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you need extra leverage, I have a monster 1 inch square drive breaker bar and 35mm socket. I needed this for the 924 hub nuts. Not sure its the same set up for the 911 as I got Cambridge OPC to do mine a while back so I could get a 'free' 991 loan car for the weekend. 

Thanks Les. I will try it with my impact gun as that was able to move a nut on the VW engine that my bar and scaffold pole couldn’t move. My bar is only half inch and was flexing more than I was happy with. If I am unsuccessful, I’ll drop you a note.
Cheers
Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Fuchs915 said:


Thanks Les. I will try it with my impact gun as that was able to move a nut on the VW engine that my bar and scaffold pole couldn’t move. My bar is only half inch and was flexing more than I was happy with. If I am unsuccessful, I’ll drop you a note.
Cheers
Kevin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a plan ;) 

My half inch breaker broke at the knuckle when attacking my hub nuts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Fuchs915 said:


Trying to find suitable sized pipe fittings appears my biggest challenge, especially when I don’t know what I am really after. I have found some stainless ones, but they are not cheap and for a little bit more money and less hassle I can get a kit that should do most of what I think I need to do.

I cant find my previous posts either. I used a home brew solution the first time I did it ages ago but have since bought and used a set like this:

s-l1600.jpg

Make sure you check the size of the cups are big enough for the porsche rear bearing (in both height and diameter) as its a chunky beast. Once you get the puller all setup and some force applied heat the alloy trailing arm to help the release the bearing, dont just wind on it till something pops. 

10 minutes ago, Lesworth said:

Sounds like a plan ;) 

My half inch breaker broke at the knuckle when attacking my hub nuts.

Mine too, 3/4 inch minimum for those mo-fo's

Finally make sure you refit the bearing retainer plate before pulling the stub axle into the bearing as you cant get it on afterwards and removing the stub will destroy your new bearing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Fuchs915 said:

That’s the sort of kit I have been looking at, Jev. Thanks.

Excellent, been a handy set to have in the garage.

Dont forget to leave the new bearing in the freezer for a day or so and heat the arm before fitting. If you have an infra red thermometer experiment with your heating technique to get the arm nice and warm. Also make sure you get all your pullers and sockets etc lined up ready to use before taking bearing out the freezer.

I also draw a few rings around the bearing so its easier to see its going in true, you dont want to keep winding it in if its got a bit skew wiff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/4/2019 at 1:59 PM, Lesworth said:

Pop a few ice pops in there too while you're at it to enjoy once the job is complete ;)

Haagen Dazs, Les, surely?

A couple of parcels arrived yesterday.  Wheel bearings and shiny refurb'd front calipers, excellent service as always from our young Matthew @Type911. Plus a kit like that there Jevvy suggested.  In my mind, it now feels like a straightforward 10 minute job, we'll see just how wrong someone can be!  The wheel bearings are in the freezer so should be ready to slot right in.

Thanks for all the tips.  I'll try to take some pics as I work through the various bits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...