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Jamiem

Hi, help required with my 82’ 911sc

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Hi. Im seeking a little advice for my 1982 911 sc. 

I recently purchased the car after being stood not started for 6 years, i did the usual checks, drained the oil and fuel, filled with fresh, turned over by hand, removed all plugs and checked etc. 

Fitted a new battery and she started. Small amount of smoke but soon cleared. Anyhow i took it for a run and not even a 1/4 down the road it popped/banged and kangarood a few times then died. (IT HAS FUEL, NO SPARK)

Recovered it home and did some visual checks, there was no spark, found a decent online guide to test the ignition system which it has passed with flying colours. Im now out of ideas. 

Any help would be much appreciated or pointers towards any specialists that could give a little guidance. 

Heres a copy of the online guide i used.

1. Check for spark by inserting a known good plug in the end of one of your spark plug leads attach jumper wire with alligator ends to spark plug threads and a good engine compartment ground. Get a helper to crank over the engine, bright blue spark all good. If no spark go to step 2
2. Disconnect the coil lead from the distributor and using a spark tester look for a spark when the engine is cranked. If you haven’t got a spark tester you could use a spark and jumper wire with alligator clips. Holding the lead with insulated pliers close to an earth point would be risky as the voltages here can be very high and if the gap is too wide the charge building up in the coil will be too great and may damage the coil or CDI box.
If you have a spark from the coil the problem could be in your distributor, distributor cap, rotor points (or pick up if you have breakerless ignition) or leads. If you don't have a spark the problem could be in one of 4 places: the coil, the green wire that goes from the distributor to the CDI box, the CDI box or the pulse generator in your distributor .
3. Check the coi for obvious damage and with your multimeter look for resistance across the two small connections ( marked 1 and A ), this is the primary coil and resistance should be very low, less than 1 ohm, 0.6 or so ( remember to zero your multimeter or deduct the resistance across your test wires) check for resistance across the high tension center connection and terminal 1 this should be much higher 600 - 800. If test is out replace the coil if test ok go to step 4
4. Turn the ignition on and if the CDI box makes a squealing noise you are getting power to the box. If there is no noise pull the plug at the bottom of the CDI box and check for power at terminal 15 which is the middle terminal on the outboard side of the six pin plug ( see a manual if you have got one) . If there is no power check the supply wire or your ignition switch, if there is power and your CDI box is silent the CDI box is most likely caput. 
My CDI box was making a noise however this alone does not prove that it is working so I went to steP 5
5. With the engine cranking check for a 1 to 1.5 volts pulse across terminal 31D and 7 in the plug (these are the two end terminals side by side at the fwd end of the six pin plug.) If you have a pulse then the problem is in your CDI box as it was in mine so replace the Box. if you have no pulse go to 6.
6. Check for continuity in the wires inside the green shielded twin core wire that goes from the six pin plug (terminal 31D and 7) to the distributor, these are probably the most troublesome part of the system as they deteriorate and chafe inside the shield. The pulse generator very rarely fails . If green wire test faulty replace it.
There you have it a more or less complete ignition test for non geniuses.

Pic for attention. Thanks

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I’m a bit confused here. You said the ignition tests passed? Have you got a spark or not now?   Have you definitely got fuel? Plugs wet? 

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