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Phill

Where is this oil coming from?

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3 minutes ago, Phill said:

To those of you who have removed engine and gearbox

1. How much space do you need to withdraw the complete unit from under the car and then be able to lower the car down?

2. Is is possible to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in the car?

1. whats your intake height like compared to standard? Just measure up to the top of the intake from the ground and deduct the distance from the ground up to the underside of the engine. You then have to add the height for whatever you will rest the engine on (e.g. pallet) and you will have total height required. I'd be tempted to remove rear wheels and lower the car so the engine rests onto something then undo engine mounts and lift the car off the engine - much less precarious.

2. It is but just doesn't make sense to do it like that, much easier as one lump.

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The offer of my motorcycle lift is still open Phil. You can do it as Jevvy suggests ie. lift the car off the engine, but I've always lifted the car high and dropped the engine down and rolled engine and gearbox out backwards.

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4 minutes ago, Chris T said:

The offer of my motorcycle lift is still open Phil. You can do it as Jevvy suggests ie. lift the car off the engine, but I've always lifted the car high and dropped the engine down and rolled engine and gearbox out backwards.

A motorcycle lift works when you have a lift as the car remains horizontal but when using jacks the car ends up at an acute angle which makes the interface between motorcycle lift and engine/box quite difficult to manage.

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3 minutes ago, Chris T said:

The offer of my motorcycle lift is still open Phil. You can do it as Jevvy suggests ie. lift the car off the engine, but I've always lifted the car high and dropped the engine down and rolled engine and gearbox out backwards.

Thanks Chris, don't sell it just yet.

I would take the ITBs off before dropping the engine. That's an easy job and would give that extra clearance as suggested.

When I said space I meant length wise, from the back of the car so it's clear of the car to then enable the car to be lowered. I've got a proper jack and stands so height shouldn't be an issue. Removing valance is a good shout.

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I see. Well once the engine is on the floor and the car in the air you will have space to separate engine and gearbox, once thats done you can move the gearbox off to the side and pull the engine to the back and you will only need an engine length of space to then lower the car back down.

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11 minutes ago, jevvy said:

A motorcycle lift works when you have a lift as the car remains horizontal but when using jacks the car ends up at an acute angle which makes the interface between motorcycle lift and engine/box quite difficult to manage.

I always jack up the front too and use 4 axle stands, so the car remains level(ish).

As per my avatar in fact! 

Edited by Chris T

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Ok. So this is becoming more doable. With the front wheels at the edge of the garage before the driveway slope I would have about 5 to 6 feet of clearance at the rear. Once the engine and gearbox are out I can then roll the car onto the driveway leaving my garage free. It would deffo be minimum two person job though. ( @Lesworth you volunteered first ;) @SilverWT you don't live far away either).

To get the car back into the garage will be another story altogether. Henry's suggestion of a winch is probably the only option for this.

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Phill
5-6 feet will be plenty enough room and only 3-4 feet once engine is sat behind the car.

You can borrow a high lift jack & some axle stands for the extraction.

My suggestion would be to plan to replace head studs on broken side, check other side and stop at that for now unless you find other issues. You could do a cam swap at the same time if you want to but other than that I’d wait until the time suits to do a full rebuild.
Happy to help (or stand & tut with the others)
Peter


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8 minutes ago, PeterK said:

Phill
5-6 feet will be plenty enough room and only 3-4 feet once engine is sat behind the car.

You can borrow a high lift jack & some axle stands for the extraction.

My suggestion would be to plan to replace head studs on broken side, check other side and stop at that for now unless you find other issues. You could do a cam swap at the same time if you want to but other than that I’d wait until the time suits to do a full rebuild.
Happy to help (or stand & tut with the others)
Peter


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Partial rebuild? That could save a lot of money and, as you say, save money for a full build later on. The only thing I would be concerned about is not checking other wear. However, in four years the car is only likely to do 8000 miles at a generous estimate.

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I've got some large wooden wheel stands that I lift the front end onto ahead of jacking the back up. They very solid - made from 8"x2" and "4x"4 with a wide footprint and integral chocks. There's photos of them in my rebuild threads. They keep the car at a sensible angle when you jack up the rear to the required height. You're welcome to borrow these - they're just sat in my garden at the moment!

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Have a read of my clutch job report from a few years back. I still have the trolly I built if you want to borrow it. Happy to come up and lend it and a hand with Les and WT. 

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11 hours ago, MaxDiesel said:

I've got some large wooden wheel stands that I lift the front end onto ahead of jacking the back up. They very solid - made from 8"x2" and "4x"4 with a wide footprint and integral chocks. There's photos of them in my rebuild threads. They keep the car at a sensible angle when you jack up the rear to the required height. You're welcome to borrow these - they're just sat in my garden at the moment!

 

8 hours ago, Wingnonut said:

Have a read of my clutch job report from a few years back. I still have the trolly I built if you want to borrow it. Happy to come up and lend it and a hand with Les and WT. 

Thank you, looks like I'll be doing a round robin of the home counties to collect tools and accessories before I start the job (if).

Something occured to me. How long are the head studs? Matt @Type911 could you measure one for me please? Two of my broken ones seem like they may have snapped off flush judging by their length. This would make removal a job for a machine shop?

IMG_20190914_072058.thumb.jpg.67381b8de6592382a1f19d8f81cb7791.jpg

The ruler is aligned to the end of the stud inside the nut.

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Unfortunately I think you may be right about where the studs have snapped, I hope you can tell from the attached photographs.

Ian

 

IMG_0142.JPG

IMG_5565.JPG

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3 hours ago, Phill said:

 

Thank you, looks like I'll be doing a round robin of the home counties to collect tools and accessories before I start the job (if).

Something occured to me. How long are the head studs? Matt @Type911 could you measure one for me please? Two of my broken ones seem like they may have snapped off flush judging by their length. This would make removal a job for a machine shop?

IMG_20190914_072058.thumb.jpg.67381b8de6592382a1f19d8f81cb7791.jpg

The ruler is aligned to the end of the stud inside the nut.

162mm

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Might well be a machine shop job to remove broken studs but TBH I’d take the job to a specialist to remove old studs and replace with new in any case. If you do change to ARP rod bolts, a specialist can also change these for you without splitting crank case halves. 

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You are going to be ok with the studs. Use a propane gas torch to gently heat the stud and surrounding alloy to melt the thread lock. Then give the area a thorough clean.

When it comes to installing new studs I use a length of rigid plastic tube and large diameter washer to pull the suds up as the thread lock cures - typically 24 hours (studs are set to a length- not bottomed out in case).

Always replaced all 24 studs with genuine Porsche steel (are these the cheese option) with no problems. 

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40 minutes ago, Leicestershire said:

I use a length of rigid plastic tube and large diameter washer to pull the suds up as the thread lock cures - typically 24 hours

Nice touch, I like it!

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If you need yet another pair of hands, etc, I’d be happy to try and help. You also seem to be missing some eye rolling and tutting skills, both specialities of mine, as well as a good line in expletives.


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Bit late to this post and you seem to be well supported already Phil but more than happy to help if needed. 

Cheers

FF

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Thanks Guys, all your support is great and hugely appreciated :signs85:

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