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Beaky

Friday night and I’m Bored to thought I’d stir the old oil pot again

Bored, so want to stir the pot we a poll   

12 members have voted

  1. 1. What’s in your car

    • Vr1 20w-50
      6
    • Fuchs Titan Pro R 20w-50
      1
    • Millers classic Sport 20w-50
      2
    • Another brand fully synthetic 10w-40
      3


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2 minutes ago, Busybee said:

Are you starting a tyre thread tonight Chris? :yahoo:

If I can't sleep...................................:whistling:

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14 hours ago, SP72 said:

Agree to an extent, however I chose Rock Oil Carbon for that reason - a new synthetic but still tested using the industry standard flat tappet wear test (figures shown for a 5w30 which I would not use)

https://www.rockoil.co.uk/cm/products/lubricants/motorsport-fast-road

Plus it’s 2 thirds of the price of 300v.

I may try the street version of the Motul 15w50 synth - some useful feedback here from a motul rep:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/1088564-introduction-motul.html

 

 

 

 

@Beaky are you worried about the oil you’re running or genuinely bored?
Assuming VR1 is what Jaz use? 

I use 10w50 Rock oil also, mainly because I like the cut of their jib but also because I'm big fan of Rock n Roll

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16 hours ago, SP72 said:

Agree to an extent, however I chose Rock Oil Carbon for that reason - a new synthetic but still tested using the industry standard flat tappet wear test (figures shown for a 5w30 which I would not use)

https://www.rockoil.co.uk/cm/products/lubricants/motorsport-fast-road

Plus it’s 2 thirds of the price of 300v.

I may try the street version of the Motul 15w50 synth - some useful feedback here from a motul rep:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/1088564-introduction-motul.html

 

@Beaky are you worried about the oil you’re running or genuinely bored?
Assuming VR1 is what Jaz use? 

Is that the Motul 4100 15w-50 you are referring to and why the change from Rock oil

Not complete yet and probabaly inaccurate in places and some data taken from sites like Opie as opposed to directly from the manufacturer, but it gives a feel

 

Brand

Millers CFS NT 10w-50

Millers CFS 10w-50

Gulf Comp 15w-50

Motul Comp 300V 15w-50

Motul 4100 15w-50

Fuchs Titan Pro R 15w-50

Fuchs Titan Pro R 20w-50

Valvoline VR1 20-50

Millers Classic High 20w-50

Millers Classic Sport 20w-50

API

 

 

API SL, CF

ACEA A3 /B4

 

API SL, CF

ACEA A3 /B4

API SH, SJ & SL

API SH, SJ & SL

API SL

ACEA A3/B4

 

 

Viscosity @ 100 ºC, cSt

17.1

20.0

20.2

18.1

19.7

18.2

18.49

21.1

18.5

18.1

Viscosity @ 40 ºC, cSt

106

139.9

133.8

122.9

154

130

163.4

193

156.8

157

Viscosity Index

177

165

175

164

147

156

127

129

133

128

Cold Crank cP

 

 

3260@- 20ºC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flash Point,  ºC

>210

>240

>200

>238

>230

>200

>202

>228

>200

>200

Pour Point,  ºC

-42

-42

-26

-39

-30

-35

-25

-33

-15

-15

TBN, mg KOH/g

10

10

9.2

8.25

8.00

 

 

11.8

 

 

Density @ 15ºC, Kg/l

0.873

0.869

0.865

0.868

0.879

0.911

0.891

0.879

.868

.888

ZDDP

1000

1000

 

1130

1155

1150

1050

1400

1000

1000

Phosphorus

 

 

 

1139

1030

 

 

1300

 

 

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I've got to learn to check for typo's!

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On 10/11/2019 at 12:44 PM, Beaky said:

Is that the Motul 4100 15w-50 you are referring to and why the change from Rock oil

Not decided yet, I was naively hoping for a larger difference with the Rock Oil but that hasn’t materialised. Engine temps are the same with Rock and VR1.

So I may return to a known quantity in the VR1, or a slightly lower winter spec in the road-centric Motul 4100. Both are £50-60 delivered for 10 litres. Rock is about £90. Motul 300v £120.

The specialist I may start using in Guildford also uses VR1 for servicing Lotus and IBs.

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2 minutes ago, SP72 said:

Not decided yet, I was naively hoping for a larger difference with the Rock Oil but that hasn’t materialised. Engine temps are the same with Rock and VR1.

So I may return to a known quantity in the VR1, or a slightly lower winter spec in the road-centric Motul 4100. Both are £50-60 delivered for 10 litres. Rock is about £90. Motul 300v £120.

The specialist I may start using in Guildford also uses VR1 for servicing Lotus and IBs.

Have you tried Fuchs Titan pro SP? In daisy and I’ve never seen the temp up above first third marker despite track driving and warm weather. 

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30 minutes ago, SP72 said:

The specialist I may start using in Guildford also uses VR1 for servicing Lotus and IBs.

I too believe that with VR1 20w-50 my car runs warmer than before when I used CFS 10-40, that said it could be due to the new engine configuration and use of SSI's.

I'm adding a fan to the oil cooler as a backup and to date can't find anything that is significantly better than VR1, so may stick with it in the short term, let's get a few years/miles under its belt.

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Yup, Ignition timing can affect engine temps. Spark plug heat ranges too I think?

 

54 minutes ago, Busybee said:

Have you tried Fuchs Titan pro SP? In daisy and I’ve never seen the temp up above first third marker despite track driving and warm weather. 

Nope, mainly as they don’t usually publish their data (at least not on opie oils).

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2 hours ago, Beaky said:

I too believe that with VR1 20w-50 my car runs warmer than before when I used CFS 10-40, that said it could be due to the new engine configuration and use of SSI's.

Let me caveant this, in normal driving conditions, it's the same, but when sitting in traffic, heats up much quicker than before, and yes the temp valves are working.

I think it's just the thickness of VR1, 

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31 minutes ago, Beaky said:

Let me caveant this, in normal driving conditions, it's the same, but when sitting in traffic, heats up much quicker than before, and yes the temp valves are working.

I think it's just the thickness of VR1, 

Wait till your Rebuild warranty expires then try 10w40 again

I only use a w/50 due to the risk of fuel dilution

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2 hours ago, SP72 said:

Wait till your Rebuild warranty expires then try 10w40 again

I only use a w/50 due to the risk of fuel dilution

👍

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6 hours ago, Beaky said:

I too believe that with VR1 20w-50 my car runs warmer than before when I used CFS 10-40, that said it could be due to the new engine configuration and use of SSI's.

I'm adding a fan to the oil cooler as a backup and to date can't find anything that is significantly better than VR1, so may stick with it in the short term, let's get a few years/miles under its belt.

If you mean newly fitted SSIs that is the likeliest explanation, they radiate heat so well.

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10 minutes ago, mean in green said:

If you mean newly fitted SSIs that is the likeliest explanation, they radiate heat so well.

You can get them Ceramic coated to keep the heat in and apparently help the hot gasses exit more quickly.

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I don’t even know what oil is in mine at the moment.   I do know it is a Porsche recommended fully synthetic.  

I’ve run it on cheapo Castrol prior to rebuild and whatever Lee ( @targa boy  ) at Octane Garage uses since he rebuilt it 37k miles ago.

Never noticed any difference in running or temperatures and no drips either.

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28 minutes ago, mean in green said:

If you mean newly fitted SSIs that is the likeliest explanation, they radiate heat so well.

17 minutes ago, SP72 said:

You can get them Ceramic coated to keep the heat in and apparently help the hot gasses exit more quickly.

That's probably why, and who does the Ceramic coating?

 

 

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22 hours ago, Beaky said:

Let me caveant this, in normal driving conditions, it's the same, but when sitting in traffic, heats up much quicker than before, and yes the temp valves are working.

I think it's just the thickness of VR1, 

mine does too since it was rebuilt, but isn't that just because its more 'angry', ie higher compression, more zingy bits, higher tick over revs etc. :morning: I would expect it to run warmer.

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Mobil 1 10/60 Motorsport in mine - which I think is what Porsche sell as their 3.0 litre+ classic engine oil.

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1 hour ago, Busybee said:

Use whatever oil you feel happy with but these are not close tolerance engines. When these were built 10w30, 10w40 etc engine oils were available but Porsche engineers selected alternative viscosities. 

Somebody will most likely cherp in with modern oils being more stable and their ability to offset fuel contamination etc.

However these things will run for many 100 thousand miles on 1960’s oil and skipped maintenance schedules so it probably isn’t all that important.

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4 hours ago, MarkJ said:

mine does too since it was rebuilt, but isn't that just because its more 'angry', ie higher compression, more zingy bits, higher tick over revs etc. :morning: I would expect it to run warmer.

Probably yes, the fan on the oil rad is just for those wonderful summer traffic jams!

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