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Robos911

How to respray a 911!?!

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As the title says really, genuine question, i havent a clue where to start, ive repainted the roof on a camper van and that came out really well but that was with a roller (pics below are straight off the roller, never did any flatting back)!

Ive been looking at compressors, spray guns etc and not really sure what i need??

its probably worth buying the kit because the rest of the Van will need doing at some point and the Mrs has got a Fig which could do with a tidy up!

Any suggestions on how to guides etc much appreciatedūüĎ欆


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A48E849E-94B6-4FDC-A6DB-6EBDE8D30775.thumb.jpeg.79591b9b4afa84b1c8369430a286ec05.jpeg


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B23F7AED-456A-470F-AC77-BAC018D2AE30.thumb.jpeg.23b81e10785f2a815b8df7156fa37d41.jpeg

Or do i get the rollers back outūü§Ē

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Well to be honest, that roller looks pretty good. Be even better with a decent spray gun. Spraying large objects is a bit of an art though. This series of videos by a fireman in Australia is a good watch 

 

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Love  your garage.

 I would pause here, as to whether painting a 911,  yourself is the best option. Don`t mean the finish. The chemicals used in quality paints,2 pack paints , mean that a full air fed respirator, protective suit  is a necessity.

  

  

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The subject of whether to get a respirator etc is not the question. People can make their own minds up about their own health and safety.

In my experience, having done large panels, it is an art which requires practice. However, spending some money on paint to practise with could save a lot of money down the line. I have a sealey HVLP gun and a sealey 2.5hp 50 ltr compressor and they are fine for DIY car spraying. You will get all sorts of opinion but it is down to you what is financially viable for you. You will need a variable speed polisher with mops and cutting compound.

The other way to go is lacquer over base coat. It hides a multitude of sins but you use the same equipment.

Whichever way you go, getting your own, good finish, is hugely satisfying.

Edited by Phill

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Thanks all, ive got a polisher and mops and the car is gp white so i would think quite easy??? no metalic or clear coat.

36 minutes ago, Busybee said:

Well to be honest, that roller looks pretty good. Be even better with a decent spray gun. Spraying large objects is a bit of an art though. This series of videos by a fireman in Australia is a good watch 

Thanks, I will give it a watch! I was surprised how good you get¬†with the roller, big flat panels (van roof) are easy its the¬†small intricate bits that you struggle with! Probably the opposite to sprayingūü§Ē

34 minutes ago, angusb said:

Love  your garage.

 I would pause here, as to whether painting a 911,  yourself is the best option. Don`t mean the finish. The chemicals used in quality paints,2 pack paints , mean that a full air fed respirator, protective suit  is a necessity.  

Angus, the garage is a luxury!! First house ive had with one, made sure when we moved there was enough space and built it myself other than the brickwork! As the car is solid white do i need air fed etc??

 

14 minutes ago, Phill said:

The subject of whether to get a respirator etc is not the question. People can make their own minds up about their own health and safety.

In my experience, having done large panels, it is an art which requires practice. However, spending some money on paint to practise with could save a lot of money down the line. I have a sealey HVLP gun and a sealey 2.5hp 50 ltr compressor and they are fine for DIY car spraying. You will get all sorts of opinion but it is down to you what is financially viable for you. You will need a variable speed polisher with mops and cutting compound.

The other way to go is lacquer over base coat. It hides a multitude of sins but you use the same equipment.

Whichever way you go, getting your own, good finish, is hugely satisfying.

Phil,
i was thinking something like this, although Aldi have got a 50L one in at the moment....

What else would i need??

2BE366EF-56BD-4678-83BA-02EB109D773A.thumb.png.a4172b404aa51c81d7381b38d1b3a7da.png


Thanks again all!!

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That looks like a decent bit of kit for the money. 100l is better than 50l for sure.

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There’s a long thread on the Club8090 forum about rollering paint on, with some impressive examples included. The ethos seemed to be get a lot of paint on without caring much about how it looked then spend a long time flatting it.

The conventional spraying process methodology goes something along the lines of: weld/prep, 2k etch prime, two or three coats 2k high build primer, bake, dry flat to 400, check & rectify any issues, wet on wet two or three coats base, one drop coat, two or three coats 2k clear, bake, wet flat and polish.

For Grand Prix white you could even use 2k direct gloss.

Find a friendly paint supplier locally, often a motor factor. The materials are not hugely expensive. 

See the Gunman on YT, and buy a decent spray gun. He has a thorough video top ten test that placed a £100 DeVilbiss FLG5 second amongst others costing £300-£400. You can get away with a Fast Mover £50 gun (a paintshop I know price one in on every job then chuck it to save time cleaning!).

Do you have the space to do it? Are you (and your neighbours) ok with use of the 2k products etc.?

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1 hour ago, mean in green said:

(a paintshop I know price one in on every job then chuck it to save time cleaning!).

That's shocking! I wouldn't use a sprayer that did that, out of principle. Any decent sprayer has a cleaning tank, hang the gun, close the lid, switch on for a couple of minutes, job done.

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2 hours ago, mean in green said:

There’s a long thread on the Club8090 forum about rollering paint on, with some impressive examples included. The ethos seemed to be get a lot of paint on without caring much about how it looked then spend a long time flatting it.

The conventional spraying process methodology goes something along the lines of: weld/prep, 2k etch prime, two or three coats 2k high build primer, bake, dry flat to 400, check & rectify any issues, wet on wet two or three coats base, one drop coat, two or three coats 2k clear, bake, wet flat and polish.

For Grand Prix white you could even use 2k direct gloss.

Find a friendly paint supplier locally, often a motor factor. The materials are not hugely expensive. 

See the Gunman on YT, and buy a decent spray gun. He has a thorough video top ten test that placed a £100 DeVilbiss FLG5 second amongst others costing £300-£400. You can get away with a Fast Mover £50 gun (a paintshop I know price one in on every job then chuck it to save time cleaning!).

Do you have the space to do it? Are you (and your neighbours) ok with use of the 2k products etc.?

Club 80-90 is where i got the idea for rollering the van! Like you say there is some impressive work but especially for the intricate bits its labour intensive. Did the van probably 2 years ago, its used all the time, never been flatted or polished and its still got a nice shine!

This 911 was rollered on ddk

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Ive got plenty of space away from the neighbours but would have no bake facility and im a bit concerned about needing air fed masks etc??? 
Do you need to use 2k? are there other options? I could get Rustoleum Combi-colour made up in GP white??

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14 hours ago, Busybee said:

This series of videos by a fireman in Australia is a good watch 

Cant believe ive never seen this before!! Watched about an hr of it last night, not¬†got up to the painting yet but great projectūüĎć

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Cellulose? I think it's harder to get hold of these days, but easy to work with, get it wrong, rub it down and start again..... No experience here, but that's what I was told when I asked the same question. I handed it over to a friendly local body shop as I wanted it done over the winter and my garage has no heating, but had it been summer I would most likely have tackled it myself.

Chris.

 

 

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@SilverWT Used water based, I believe, with good results.

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1 hour ago, Robos911 said:

Do you need to use 2k? are there other options?

No and yes.

Etch primer, primer and primer filler are all still available in cellulose. Your local paint factor will stock them. They are legal to use on "vintage" vehicles, for "industrial" use and by professionals. If you were an amateur artist spraying a sculpture you made out of automotive parts, no problem!

Solid colour top coats are also available in cellulose.

Metallics are not readily available in cellulose. For these you can use water based automotive paint. Easy enough to spray, but it does take some time and heat to get it to dry. Also, you can not rectify mistakes easily. You can not wet flat and dry flatting snags the soft surface.

One pack clear acrylic is available to clear coat the metallic. Solvent based like cellulose clear lacquer, but it does not yellow like cellulose.

The last things I sprayed with cellulose primmer, water based metallic base and acrylic clear were the replacement flat engine lid and non fog light front valance for my SC. Turned out OK and a pretty good match to the rest of the car which I think is done in 2K.

IMAG1510.thumb.jpg.310bb03d144369b31e13370f89c617db.jpg

IMAG1518.thumb.jpg.01b354ead059ed65f510317c80f3951b.jpg

Mark

 

Edited by SilverWT

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P.s.

If you search some of my old threads you will find a lot more pictures of this type of paint work on my 3.2.

Mark

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7 minutes ago, SilverWT said:

No and yes.

Etch primer, primer and primer filler are all still available in cellulose. Your local paint factor will stock them. They are legal to use on "vintage" vehicles, for "industrial" use and by professionals. If you were an amateur artist spraying a sculpture you made out of automotive parts, no problem!

Solid colour top coats are also available in cellulose.

Metallics are not readily available in cellulose. For these you can use water based automotive paint. Easy enough to spray, but it does take some time and heat to get it to dry. Also, you can not rectify mistakes easily. You can not wet flat and dry flatting snags the soft surface.

One pack clear acrylic is available to clear coat the metallic. Solvent based like cellulose clear lacquer, but it does not yellow like cellulose.

The last things I sprayed with cellulose primmer, water based metallic base and acrylic clear were the replacement flat engine lid and non fog light front valance for my SC. Turned out OK and a pretty good match to the rest of the car which I think is done in 2K.

Mark

 

Mark, 

Sounds more like it, i dont need metalic or clear top coat so cellulose is¬†¬†the way to go ūüĎć

2 minutes ago, SilverWT said:

P.s.

If you search some of my old threads you will find a lot more pictures of this type of paint work on my 3.2.

Mark

Will do

Thanks

Steve

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On 10/27/2019 at 3:57 PM, Dr Rock said:

Don't know anything about the chemicals or the risks but filters (masks) are a highly specialized area and you need to be 100% sure about their suitability for each application, its one product that you definitely have to go with known international brands. Throw-away masks are pretty useless for most applications.

WRT the post in above link I wonder why he said "I believe I now have a poisoned central nervous system"  as opposed to I have been diagnosed with .... or my doctor/specialist thinks that I may have .... the way he has worded it suggests self diagnosis of a terminal illness!!! Anyway best not to take chances on ones health & safety for the sake of saving a few grand.

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If you read that thread he has no firm medical evidence that he has what he thinks he has. A later poster evens says he has the same symptoms but it is something else entirely. The OP seems to get lost in his own thread and starts to sound like a hypochondriac blaming his "illness" on all sorts of things.

I'm not saying you don't need to be careful and a good mask is essential, absolutely.

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That chap's last post on the Saab forum was in March and he hasn't logged in since then. Some of his posts about his health were pretty grim regardless of the cause.

Back perhaps 30 yeas ago a mate of a mate ran a "back woods" paint shop and breakers yard. He used to paint with little to no protection using air dried lacquers. Then he started to use 2 pack paints (Dupunt Centari? now banned?) and 10 years later was carrying an oxygen bottle wherever he went as his lungs were clogged with paint particles.

I had two instances of ocular migraines about 2 years ago - both coincidentally within a day of what I thought was mild exposure to naphtha from oiling some oak (domestic, not 911) doors. Not a lot of fun when your vision goes wonky for an hour.

So be careful out there and read and follow those material data sheets!

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All I can say is that whilst I have no direct experience, I dealt with two liability claims involving illness following isocyanate paint useage and had access to numerous medical reports which highlighted the dreadful effects this can have. Both claimants were permanently totally disabled and their respiratory  difficulties considered life shortening. 

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OK I wont be using 2 pack!!

Next question when ive been using dansk panels ive been removing as much of the black coating as i can.... now for the genuine porsche panels im reluctant to remove too much in case i damage the galvo underneath, is it ok to just roughen the surfaces or do i need to take back to bare metal??? Thoughts??

37B89EEF-A53C-49F7-A057-E3EA2A84C99E.thumb.jpeg.d0237ca9a87ec8c961cc37e3a64f6173.jpeg

 

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I was told that if the black primer didn't come off with thinners/gun wash was then it was ecoat and to leave it on as it was better than any primer you could get for home use. That was years ago though and before epoxy primer was available. 

Rich 

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2 hours ago, rich73 said:

I was told that if the black primer didn't come off with thinners/gun wash was then it was ecoat and to leave it on as it was better than any primer you could get for home use. That was years ago though and before epoxy primer was available. 

Rich 

I found out early on that with the dansk panels i painted over the black with epoxy mastic, then when i was welding some of the mastic lifted, when i peeled it off it worked like a strippable coating and took a full strip off the panel! The mastic stuck to the black but the black didnt stick to the panel!!  So ive been stripping them but i thought the Porsche panels should be better!!

i will give this a try on both panels and see if theres any difference! 

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Ok so a bit more research and it looks like Porsche didnt start clear coating solid colours  until 1987 so no lacquer on mine... does that mean it wouldve been Cellulose from the factory or 1k?

and i can spray epoxy undercoat (no isocyanides) with Celulose over the top so im thinking of doing this, anyone tried it?

thanks again!

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