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JezHill

Heater Box Restoration

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I have been getting a lot of heat into the car recently - which on a sunny day is not nice.

 

I realised that the cluprit was the heater control boxes, which were looking a bit tired. Although my car is completely rust free the boxes had a lot of surface rust - I guess underseal is no good on moving parts.

 

2007_0604Various40194.jpg

 

2007_0604Various40195.jpg

 

The internal valve was not closing properly as there was a load of crud caught up in the hinge mechanism and the springe were tired so they were not pulling it closed properly.

 

I cleaned up all the surface rust and freed up the hinges

 

2007_0604Various40248.jpg

 

I then sprayed them

 

2007_0604Various40252.jpg

 

2007_0604Various40253.jpg

 

I replaced the cables as I could not seperate the original ones from the boxes when removing them - so I had to cut them off.

 

Top save weight, the CS does not have autoheat, just having manual levers. This meant taking apart the levers to get to the cable ends, which was a bit fiddly - and you need to make sure you don't drop any of the washers into the void beneath.

 

2007_0604Various40250.jpg

 

New original boxes are £280 per pair. Aftermarket copies are £155. Restoring them, including new cables, bolts, springs, jubilee clips etc cost £39.

 

The cabin is much cooler now !

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Good work Jez, those heater boxes were somewhat border line when i had it; glad to see you've sorted it for a good few years to come

 

:ani_clapping:

 

SP

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Jez

 

If you don't mind, I'm going to steal a couple of your pictures for my Auto Heat pages. See 911 Auto Heat. Great picture of the 'guts' of the heater box.

 

Ian

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btw . . . I forgot. Great job!

 

What is on the flip side of the valve thingie inside the box?

 

Ian

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What is on the flip side of the valve thingie inside the box?

 

Nothing - just the reflection of the wall in the background.

 

Help yourself to the pictures Ian, glad you feel they are of use.

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Good work that man. :signs118:

 

Any problems getting the nuts off the studs? I had heat still coming in to the cabin recently and managed to push the valve closed by inserting Mk 1 digit into pizza hole - but this is a job I would like to do but I am unlikely to get the boxes off without shearing the studs.

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Any problems getting the nuts off the studs? I am unlikely to get the boxes off without shearing the studs.

 

I had heard of problems with this, but I had no problem at all. They came off easily without the need to soak them in penetrating oil. TBH if they were to snap off it would be quite easy for a garage with a proper ramp to get in there and weld on new studs. The car could still be driven to a garage with the boxes off.

 

Its a bit of a fiddly job but well worth it to cut out the heat coming into the car.

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Hi i have been looking at my heater controls on my 3.2 carrera,with the automatic electric controler.It is all free and the flaps seem to open and shut fully,the only thing is when one is fully open the other is fully shut and vice versa.Is this correct as it gets very hot in the car,and i cant make any blower fans work.

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mine does this, I've not fixed it yet as I can't be ar*ed, plus winter is coming so the heating will need to be on anyway. My plan was to re-lube the moving parts replace the return springs as the existing ones look as limp as 2 week old lettuce and then adjust the cables. With the cables my plan was to set the dial switch to position 1 or 2, undo the cables and adjust so the valves are closed, i.e. not heat, so when the switch is in the off position it is pulling(actually pushing I think) nicely on the cables. Hope that helps

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