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ignatzcatz

Not a pretty sight

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Against all recommendations about keeping the wheels turning I have to admit taking my three two wide body off the road for the Winter. I've bought a little POS Peugeot from a local car dealer for a few hundred but I'm really happy when I'm hammering along the M23 behind an old skip lorry that's chucking loads of crap in it's wake and I couldn't care less. Winter, bring it on, my 911 is tucked up nice and warm in my garage. So with the car safe from all the nasties that comes with this grim season I thought I should get a few jobs done. I replaced the pre silencer and main exhaust box with stainless sports pieces and have just finished replacing the flexible brake hoses with tasty Goodridge braided ones and made up five hard lines as well due to the old fittings being corroded onto the existing lines. I finished this job off by drilling out all the vent holes in the brake rotors. The other job I wanted to get stuck into was to brighten up the dowdy and messy engine compartment. Flat 6's are great, performance, sound, power but there is not much you can do to make them attractive. I go off to a classic car event and I can be parked up next to an MGB for example. He'll have a nice polished rocker box, similarly gleaming SU's, tidy wiring and then I pop the lid on my engine, take one look and  close it again rather quickly. I would love to have an engine compartment that doesn't look like a grubby nest of vipers. Call me a bit anal but it's how I like a car to be and with some time on my hands over the Christmas period I started work. I pulled most of the engine ancillaries off from the heads up, so that's all the cooling pipework, injection gubbins, alternator, inlet manifolds and fan and associated bits. I'm going to try and cherry up the engine compartment but not spend too much money. The fan I shall get polished and the cowling I shall paint gloss black together with the cooling tinware. All the hardware including all the clamps and brackets are on their way down to my friendly chromers, not to be chromed, that's expensive, but to be re-cadmium passivate plated. That's the nice goldy finish you see on new stuff and hopefully it will all look like new when it comes back. I'll wrap the wiring in black wire shielding and just scrub and clean best I can everything else. Really I should have dropped the engine to do this but nobody is going to be lying on the ground looking at the cars' underneath anyway so I took the easy, simpler and quicker route. If everything goes to plan this shouldn't cost more than a few quid. We'll see.    

                                     

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I got the fan and surround blast cleaned today and was able to prime the surround and the steel part on the rear of the fan. Between coats I cleaned out all the baked on crud in the injector orifices in the inlet manifold. I shall be sending the six injectors away to a specialist to be sonic cleaned and have new pieces fitted where necessary, they will equalise the spray and performance as well. I was looking at the lumpy great two piece manifold wishing I had a pair of 46 IDAs in its place then decided I could cherry them up a bit without too much effort and expense. I flattened off the Porsche script and polished it with a bit of emery then masked around it and gave it a couple of coats of guards red. The script was revealed after the paint had dried a bit and I now have a pair of very slightly more attractive inlet manifolds.

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A bit more budget stuff until I have to shell out for polishing and plating. I filed off all the moulding marks on the air flow sensor and distributor polished them both then detailed the top of the sensor with a splash of guards red. Gave the fan cowling and the heater boost fan a couple of coats of gloss black with plenty of hardener.  I gave all the plastic mouldings a light cut with 3m fast cut then applied a good coat of polish and they came up really nice. One job that took up most of today was a result of when I was fitting the Goodridge flexy hoses on the car a couple of weeks ago. I noticed that the thermocouple that should be fitted into the path of the hot air coming from the left heat exchanger was hanging in the breeze. It should be fixed just before the movable heater flap on a round piece of pipe but mine had disappeared apart from a shroud of rust which showed where it should have been. I found a piece of 2" exhaust pipe that looked about the right size but of course it wasn't. I had to cut it then weld in a 10mill section of metal to bring it up to the correct size to slip over the heater flap. Not done yet as I had to drill it for the thermocouple and the attachment holes which I tapped for a couple of 4mil cap screws. Oh and the cable attachment drilled nut and bolt sheared when I endeavoured to unfasten it. Fortunately I found a fairly similar cable securing arrangement which I nicked off my old mountain bike. And fortunately nil expenditure so far apart from a bit of paint and my time of course but heck, I'm cheap.

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As storm 'Brendan' hammers its way across the UK I'm so glad my 3.2 is safely tucked away in its garage. However I did receive a warning from JMG Porsche in Wimborne, Dorset regarding the enforced hibernation of  Porsches in general and this advice is relative to most internal combustion vehicles which may not be used for any length of time. I sent my fuel injectors off to JMG to be sonic cleaned and checked for spray performance and equality. There was no fault apparent when last driving the car I just thought with the manifolds removed from the engine it made sense to give the injectors a clean bill of health especially as the car had reached the 100K mark. JMG reported that all the injectors had a fair bit of corrosion present within the main body which required additional sonic cleaning. On their return JMG advised on the evils of ethanol being introduced into our regular fuels. The ethanol content combines with water drawn into the fuel tank by condensation and produces a corrosive substance which does no favours to the whole fuel system. Ethanol also attacks the rubber fuel lines in the car eventually requiring major fuel system replacement. The ethanol content in fuels can be seen by labelling at your petrol stations by E5 which means there is 5% ethanol content or E10 meaning 10%. Most of the main fuel companies like BP and Esso don't feature ethanol and more so with their premium fuels, however, it may be found at supermarket outlets. An excellent safeguard against this problem is a fuel additive and Miller do a selection which will combat this ethanol problem plus many types of listed additive will give a benefit with octane boost and a lead supplement to help valve seat recession in older engines. I'm rather bolting the stable door after the horse has gone but I have ordered a few cans from Demon Tweeks just to ensure everything is as it should be.  

Whilst scratching around under the rear of the car, actually I had just re-painted the fog-light bracket which was looking a bit scabby, I noticed another part I hadn't seen before and this was an exhaust shield attached to the rear valance. There were only six 10 mils holding it on so I took it off straight away and was rained on by a fair old load of road rubble and grit and stones that had accumulated behind it. It was also a bit rusty on the offside, not bad enough to get blasted so I cleaned it up with a coarse flap wheel and some emery then gave it a blast with some 2K silver before bolting it back into place with stainless hardware. A small job but worth doing. 

  

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Coming on nicely and it keeps you out of the pub!! (so that will help pay for the injectors being cleaned etc.,)

 

When its all done, you'll then have the task of keeping it clean and shinny! (an enjoyable task, most of the time!).

Keep the updates coming.

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Oops I forgot to give you the cost for cleaning the injectors. It was £300 including sending them back via DHL courier which I thought was very fair. Another expense came via a phone call yesterday from J.Morgan & Son to advise me that my alternator was ready for collection. Like the injectors, there was no malfunction with the alternator but as it was off the car I dropped it over to Morgans in Dorking just for them to give it a clean bill of health. And all was well with the piece apart from the bearings and bushes which were showing some wear, more so with the former. So that took care of £84.60 plus the vat but it is nice to know there should be absolutely nil problems with it in the future. I'll give Morgans a plug because they do a right good job in fact I also took the starter motor and alternator from my small block V8 Ford that is going into my Dax Cobra kit car. I bought the engine knowing that the starter and alternator were u/s, the seller told me this but I thought Morgans could just give then a quick check over and it only took them a couple of days, some brushes and parts and they are back to full working order. For that I'm very pleased.  One small problem I knew I was going to have was that the alternator is retained onto the fan housing with 6 x 110 mil long M5 cross headed screws. Now if your engine is out of the car you can access these screws easily and get a good purchase on them to securely tighten them. Unfortunately if your and my engine is still in the car there is no way you can get to tighten these screws. There is not enough forward room to push on a screwdriver. So what I needed was a bolt or cap screw variety. I tried quite a few places and although I did find an hardware supplier who could provide me with the type and size I wanted, they needed an order for a hundred. OK we'll forget that, I can really see me having a use for 94 x 110 mil bolts in the near future. Engage brain and what I could purchase was a metre length of stainless M5 rod. Back in the garage I chopped this into 6 suitable lengths the TIG'd stainless 8 mil nuts on each length, voila, there's my six bolts, job done. The tig is only an inverter, it wont do alloy but it's good for stainless. Now I'm just waiting for the clamps and hardware to be cad and pass'd and then try and remember where all the stuff was screwed and bolted    

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Should look good once it's all back together.

BTW, those look like the original fuel lines. I would consider replacing all 3 (main fuel line from the fuel filter to the injector rails, fuel line between both pressure regulators and the small (but very expensive!) curved hose under the left side regulator) as a preventative measure with everything easily accessible as it is now.

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Regarding the alternator ‘long screws’.  They are part of the alternator - they actually hold it together!   Do not remove. 
 

You’re meant to take the fan housing off the engine to change the alternator. The fan housing strap needs to come undone anyway  to access the cables and the air deflector. 

Edited by Jonny Hart

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Oops again, actually Mr. Morgan gave me a minor telling off for not having the securing screws with the alternator, so thank you Mr Hart and I will give those fuel hoses a good check. I would like to replace them with the new-ish black finished A and N fittings but this would be mega money I'm sure. Just got a text from my polisher to advise my fan is done and all the stuff is back from the platers. I'll pick 'em up tomorrow, can't wait, ooo it's just like Christmas! 

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Where did you get your fan done?

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I experienced a couple of delays this week when I was eager to get on with bolting the top of my engine back together. A minor issue with the central heating boiler not coming on one very chilly morning, a reset of the pump, thermostat and timer sorted that, then a very minor issue of the shower extraction fan not working, dismantle, clean, oil the motor bearings and all Ok again, then assemble and secure some Quickfix racking for an elderly friend. An hour at the most for this I thought, took me 4 hours. At last back in the hut and with the aid of some photos of the un-stripped engine I had stored on the laptop all the bits and bobs and brackets and bolts found their respective homes. The fan was a bit of a bugger to get central in the housing. Just bolting the alternator in caused it to go off centre so it was a case of move it around bolt to hole to next hole then tighten the bolts in odd sequence it finally spun without any contact on the housing. I whipped the plugs out for a clean and gap check and they all looked good. So the total cost of this little exercise was £570 near as dammit, made up of injector sonic cleaning at 360, polishing and plating at 100, re-bushing and checking the alternator 101 and tenner or so for sundry parts, the 5mil studding and I had to get a new rubber gaiter that joins the two inlet manifolds. It's not over the top with gobs of chrome etc, but it should be fairly easy to keep clean and respectable. Obviously not a show car but I wont be too embarrassed now to open the engine lid.   

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Hi Phill, forgot to mention it's Pierce polishing in Charlwood at the very back of the aircraft museum. Great guy, recently polished 2 sets of Fuchs for me.

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Looks great, you have PM.

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Good to know, thanks, the in-laws are near Charlwood.

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