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3.2 Fuel Lines


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7 minutes ago, 16vjay said:

You sure that new one is genuine, it looks like a really cheap copy.

As far as I can be.

I actually had two new KL21 fuel filters from different sources and they were of identical build quality. I don't think either came from Type911.

Matthew @Type911 is kindly going to have a look at his stock for me tomorrow.

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Here's a comparison of the two filters I have - the one that was on the car date stamped 09, and the one that was leaking date stamped 19.

The newer came from a reputable source - Opie Oils.

The printing on the exterior is quite different. I'd be very interested to know if this is the 'new style' or whether some other factor is at work.

I'm hoping @Type911 can shed some light - what do your stock items look like?

Filter-6.thumb.jpg.0cb6ac89a8ab2cdbe5dcd675f9cb71b1.jpg

Filter-7.thumb.jpg.4ff94c86df991c978390cd9e4b74f089.jpg

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44 minutes ago, Type911 said:

All my stock looks like your new one.

Thanks Matthew.

Seems like Mahle has reduced the build quality on this part :(

I've got the old filter back on the car with new crush washers and it's not leaking.

Bad news is I now have a leak on the low pressure return where it connects with the chassis hard line. I'm seeking Paul's advice on this as I can't see much that I can do to improve the sealing (I have tried a new hose clamp - and it now leaks worse than it did before....).

1977580798_LowPressure-1.jpg.2820ce8c687c6d1413f51429d3c16aac.jpg

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Worth trying a good quality jubilee clip Chris? 

I've got a little stash of older KL21's I bought from David Gander a while back if you get stuck for one (but I'm guessing we all need a solution going forwards?) 

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1 minute ago, Busybee said:

Worth trying a good quality jubilee clip Chris? 

Looking at my picture I may go and have another try with the Oetiker tool - not sure the front and back is clamped evenly.

The line pictured had a conical fitting on it that is a larger OD than the line itself. Paul told me a little while ago (I queried this particular joint with him when I first fitted the lines) that it is this conical fitting that gives the fluid seal in the hose.

I should be able to get a good seal with an Oetiker clamp - it might be my clamping technique that is at fault.

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FWIW, the clamp looks too big to me - not sure there should be so much of a crimp.  Can it be made smaller (was there a different hole to latch to) or maybe a double ear clamp

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I used Mikalor clamps on all my hose connections. They are very good and give an even clamp all the way round. Easy to remove and replace as well. Far better than jubilee clips.

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26 minutes ago, PeterK said:

FWIW, the clamp looks too big to me - not sure there should be so much of a crimp.  Can it be made smaller (was there a different hole to latch to) or maybe a double ear clamp

It is the clamp that Paul supplied with the kit. It only just fits over the hose....

Plan at the moment is to remove this hose and shorten it so that I can start with a fresh connection.

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7 hours ago, Jonny Hart said:

What’s the pipe diameter?  I have oetiker clamps in 15 and 17mm which we use for our AC.  

That's very kind Jonny. I've got various sizes here but I don't think the clamp size is the issue.

The seal should be at the barb on the end of the chassis hard line, not at the clamp. I'm going to shorten the hose slightly so that I have a fresh end to work with. Fortunately this is the low pressure return.

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Good work Chris, ive got the engine out now and im planning on some similar mission creep!! Im not too sure how how far to go, just flexis or everything. Out of curiosity why did you change the tunnel lines and did the kit work out much better than buying original replacements?

cheers

Steve

66F91A6F-884C-4045-AE6F-A8B55315F45D.thumb.jpeg.da4b630466ba9f8a1537aedb7320e20f.jpeg

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The guy in 'Garage Time' made his own in Ali (video available) and fitted them here 

 

 

Edited by PeterK
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21 hours ago, Robos911 said:

Good work Chris, ive got the engine out now and im planning on some similar mission creep!! Im not too sure how how far to go, just flexis or everything. Out of curiosity why did you change the tunnel lines and did the kit work out much better than buying original replacements?

cheers

Steve

66F91A6F-884C-4045-AE6F-A8B55315F45D.thumb.jpeg.da4b630466ba9f8a1537aedb7320e20f.jpeg

I changed the tunnel lines as you can't just change the lines at the front of the car - the flexible sections are hard crimped to the tunnel lines.

I didn't go with original replacements as I had my doubts as to how many fuel lines Porsche sell and hence how old any Porsche stock would be. I went with Paul's kit as they are teflon hoses  and should be fit and forget. Only his aluminium tunnel lines didn't work out for me.

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It was easier for me as I had my through-tunnel pipes out, but someone on here has replaced the flexible ends of the original pipes in situ.

You need to (carefully) dremel off the outer metal crimp / sheath from the flexible pipe end of the joints.  Underneath is a barb.  Fit new flexible, using the double ear O clamps.

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So I think I now have a dry joint at the chassis return line in the engine bay. I cut off a section of the hose and found that this gave me a much tighter fit over the barb on the end of the chassis hard line. Only fair confidence in it at the moment... Next option is a new factory chassis return line.

But now I have a no start - car turns over, sounds as though it's trying to fire up but doesn't. Very puzzled. First time the car started after all this work it sounded sweet and ran well but because of the leaks I only ran it for seconds. Each subsequent time I have started it for fuel leaks it has been progressively harder to start and when it did it didn't run well.

Just bought a new solid state DME relay but swapping this out for the old good one produces no difference.

Have ordered a fuel pressure gauge and will just work systematically through the options.

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3 hours ago, Chris_911 said:

So I think I now have a dry joint at the chassis return line in the engine bay. I cut off a section of the hose and found that this gave me a much tighter fit over the barb on the end of the chassis hard line. Only fair confidence in it at the moment... Next option is a new factory chassis return line.

But now I have a no start - car turns over, sounds as though it's trying to fire up but doesn't. Very puzzled. First time the car started after all this work it sounded sweet and ran well but because of the leaks I only ran it for seconds. Each subsequent time I have started it for fuel leaks it has been progressively harder to start and when it did it didn't run well.

Just bought a new solid state DME relay but swapping this out for the old good one produces no difference.

Have ordered a fuel pressure gauge and will just work systematically through the options.

Sorry if this is a dumb suggestion but are the spark plugs wet? Multiple attempts to start could’ve just soaked them with fuel.

Regards

Russ

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19 minutes ago, Rustybum said:

Sorry if this is a dumb suggestion but are the spark plugs wet? Multiple attempts to start could’ve just soaked them with fuel.

Regards

Russ

Not a dumb question at all.

First thing I did was pull the plugs. They were not especially wet. Cleaned and re-gapped them just for good measure though.

Going to take it slowly and work through the options.

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2 hours ago, Chris_911 said:

Not a dumb question at all.

First thing I did was pull the plugs. They were not especially wet. Cleaned and re-gapped them just for good measure though.

Going to take it slowly and work through the options.

I guessed you’d already have tried them Chris.

I was just hoping for an easy fix for you.

I hope you get it sorted quickly!!👍

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Faintly depressed today :(

So the return line joint where it meets the chassis hard line in the engine bay has a very slight leak. After pressurising the fuel system there is a slight amount of fuel moisture present at the joint. Bugger.

I think my only option now is to buy a new Porsche line - which includes the flexible and hard parts of the line as a continuous piece.

Checked the ground points and proved I have a spark. My sneaking suspicion is that I don't have fuel. I pulled a plug again right after turning the car over and it looked completely dry. Not conclusive by any means.

Should have a fuel pressure meter on Friday.

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Paul suggests putting a second clamp right on the sealing bead.

Will try that. I'd like to at least use the car a little now. Then I can fit the Porsche line I have on order over the winter.

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