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Another oil thread - Valvoline VR1


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On 25/05/2020 at 21:03, Busybee said:

Weird right. Nothing else but the gauge gives any indication of a reduced pressure. What could it be? Guess the pressure sender (which looks as old as the ark to be fair) could be a good place to start. Is there a way of testing pressure independently? Nothing else has changed. Fresh filter, oil. Valves sound lovely now. No tappety tappety. Pulls better than ever. 

You can test oil pressure off the main gallery at the rear of the engine provided you have an adapter and pressure gauge setup. Think it's unlikely to be an oil pressure issue more likely your sender. Moving to a heavier oil will give you spikes in oil pressure from cold but will have little tangible difference when it's hot. It's important to ensure your oil pressure control and relief valves are operating correctly IE seating and moving within their recesses . High oil pressure from cold can blow oil coolers and in some cases cause piston splash valve failure which can result in low oil pressure at idle.  

I use VR1 in my 64s and would recommend it but I change it regularly every 3k

 

DBS

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, PorscheApostle said:

You can test oil pressure off the main gallery at the rear of the engine provided you have an adapter and pressure gauge setup. Think it's unlikely to be an oil pressure issue more likely your sender. Moving to a heavier oil will give you spikes in oil pressure from cold but will have little tangible difference when it's hot. It's important to ensure your oil pressure control and relief valves are operating correctly IE seating and moving within their recesses . High oil pressure from cold can blow oil coolers and in some cases cause piston splash valve failure which can result in low oil pressure at idle.  

I use VR1 in my 64s and would recommend it but I change it regularly every 3k

DBS

Thanks DBS. I think it's the sender too and have one on order with Matt. 

Out of interest, where do I plug in to test the oil pressure directly and what adapter/gauge do I need? One of those fuel pressure tester off Ebay? 

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If you remove your low oil pressure switch next to the crank breather get an adapter to fit (can't remember the size think they're M10 x1.25 thread) . Then a suitable pressure gauge like in a cis fuel test kit will do the job. 

D

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Swapped out the old sender this evening. Normal service has been resumed. Idling around the 2 mark and races for the 5 with a prod of throttle. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the original sender. Was mega tight on the union block. 

WhatsApp Image 2020-06-04 at 19.27.45.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-06-04 at 19.27.45 (1).jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

BradPenn for me currently (specialist that fitted motor loves it...) Will be going to my regular VR1 Racing (synthetic) at next oil change. No experience with the S/C 3.8 Yet but many 1000’s of miles in the 289/427 which solved much of my anxiety whilst touring as they don’t breakdown until much higher temps. Good friend races them and  Wouldn’t use anything else And he’s been at it for 40 yrs+ so has used them all. (2c and all that)

Edited by 8bucksagallon
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  • 5 months later...

Yes I know.. The Bumpermiester will slap on an instant ban for mentioning oil, and maybe a permanent ban for resurrecting an oil thread ... but .....  needs must, etc etc

Some years back, Opie recommended a "Full synthetic ester" Fuchs (Titan) Race Pro R 15W50 for my 2.7 MFI (911/83 spec), so I used that and still have 6L left for some strange reason. ( I think I pilfered some for another car !)

I found 20W50 Valvoline VR1 locally (surprisingly in Ireland !) and I can have 10L of that for the price of the missing 4L or 5L of the Fuchs stuff.

From all the reading I've done, I'm thinking I should try the good old mineral oil. 

I'd appreciate advice.  Is the VR1 a good choice for my 2.7 MFI motor ?

Thanks

Edit: I should add .... normal "fast" Irish road  use ... under 100kph ossifer. 

 

Edited by declang
Added how its used
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Fuchs Titan is a great oil. I use it in Daisy and that car likes to rev - a lot. Feel the slipperiness of it off the dipstick and you’ll see a marked difference.

Use VR1 in the less highly strung engines. Again, seems fine. 

Think it’s shades of performance. If it usually costs twice as much, it’s likely cause it’s better gear. 

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VR1 is perfect for the 2.7 mfi motor .   There is a reason some of the UK's top aircooled performance engien buliders use it on all their motors from normal to wild.   CAnt see why busybee would say not to use it in highly strung / performacnce build motors

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Sorry, think you’ve misunderstood. I use both. Just prefer the Fuchs Titan for my high revving tracked motor.  

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48 minutes ago, Busybee said:

Sorry, think you’ve misunderstood. I use both. Just prefer the Fuchs Titan for my high revving tractor.  

Fixed that for you 😉

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