Phill Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 Very nice, better than mine. How does it look fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 1 minute ago, Phill said: Very nice, better than mine. How does it look fitted? It's pretty much identical to the white one geometry/shape wise, with the funnel not so side (still plenty big enough). Will try and get a photo tomorrow. I was going to put a logo on it but couldn't decide what! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busybee Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 49 minutes ago, ajd said: Funnel update Fusion 360 is amazing but a bit tricky - I have been struggling - then it turned out Tinkercad had some better pipes and shapes added so I managed to create a much better Mark 2! I added a captive cap as my current funnel is always a pain to put back under the bonnet with a bit of residual oil even after a wipe. It’s a quicker print but still 6 hours, but only 43g so quite efficient on material. Happy to run off a few for fun if anyone interested. PM me and I’ll see what I can do and see what price would be seen as reasonable - I am busy at work so not sure how long it may take to sort. That looks pretty cool. I’d like one please 👍 What would be the price? Porsche, 911 or the crest on the top section would be even better Edited May 12, 2020 by Busybee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Some more pictures. I couldn’t find any gold paint Ian but I’ll have another look in the shed to see what I can find PM me if you’re interested. I reserve the right to get bored any any time - they take ages to print! Cheers J 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy M Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I'll have one if possible please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevvy Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 22 hours ago, ajd said: ...I managed to create a much better Mark 2! ...muuusst....resssiiisst...sheee.weee....jokkkke...againnnnnn (ahem) Looks very nice, well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Nifty device ajd, well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnonut Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 This weeks project has been changing an O2 sensor on the Cayman. Check engine light and OBDII diagnostics said Bank 2 sensor 1. Was well and truely seized one the manifold so took a few days of plus gas soaking and then propane torch to finally get it to budge while all the time in fear of rounding the nut. Finally off and replaced. Cleared the code off for a test drive and the fekin light comes on again. Note to self. When reading up on which is Bank 2 remember that when Pelican says drivers side they sit on the wrong side of the car in other countries! All that struggle and I have changed the wrong side! 🙄 Tw4t! Another sensor ordered 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busybee Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 5 hours ago, Wingnonut said: This weeks project has been changing an O2 sensor on the Cayman. Check engine light and OBDII diagnostics said Bank 2 sensor 1. Was well and truely seized one the manifold so took a few days of plus gas soaking and then propane torch to finally get it to budge while all the time in fear of rounding the nut. Finally off and replaced. Cleared the code off for a test drive and the fekin light comes on again. Note to self. When reading up on which is Bank 2 remember that when Pelican says drivers side they sit on the wrong side of the car in other countries! All that struggle and I have changed the wrong side! 🙄 Tw4t! Another sensor ordered 😊 🤦 ahh well. You’ll have a shiny new pair or sensors Rich. One of mine went on my 981. Probably from me changing to the carnewal mufflers. 200 cell cats 👌😜 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagarep Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) Home made Rear camber adjusters. Got a pair on my car already. This is going to Mark (SilverWT) just waiting for more stock to be delivered so I can make the other side. Jason Edited May 26, 2020 by hagarep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Always fancied a grill badge : This initial proto is about 6cm long and seems way too small - please can someone tell me how long/tall and deep (letters and base) a real one is? I will probably make it in two prints, then sand / primer / paint one bit black / one bit silver and superglue them together. May also just make custom clips at the back rather than bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Went with a guess at 100mm but seems a bit on the big side. In the end tried printing two threaded bolts on the back with nuts which should fit through the grill if I measured it right, though they on the small side for the resolution of the printer. These aspects of 3D printing are great - add complexity, it’s free! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busybee Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 9 hours ago, ajd said: Went with a guess at 100mm but seems a bit on the big side. In the end tried printing two threaded bolts on the back with nuts which should fit through the grill if I measured it right, though they on the small side for the resolution of the printer. These aspects of 3D printing are great - add complexity, it’s free! Look great James. Not easier to print all in one? Can I ask what printer/software you use? I quite fancy a go. Need a backrest adjuster knob on my Recaro Turbo's in my SC and I'm sure a thousand other bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 The 3 hours ago, Busybee said: Look great James. Not easier to print all in one? Can I ask what printer/software you use? I quite fancy a go. Need a backrest adjuster knob on my Recaro Turbo's in my SC and I'm sure a thousand other bits. The first smaller one I printed in one go, but : a) easier to print in two parts to paint the numbers silver and the backing black (I know that is not quite right but saves on any faff masking etc.). - then just superglue together, b) it is best to ensure the starting surface is flat and whilst you can print overhangs they either have to be small or at an angle. You might have noticed on the funnel that the upper funnel part is about the shallowest overhang you'd want and you can see how the this starts to look "on the limit" for printing (the funnel started from the oil filler neck being end being printed on the base). For the badge, it would not be possible to start printing the 3.2 and the go into the base as an overhang - you could try but the surface finish would be poor and would likely fail I suspect. It's really not a faff to superglue the parts and it can make the process easier - I actually went this way for the painting reason but then twigged it made the bolt bit easier too. It is fun to do as you learn better ways to make things as you go and it turns usual ideas about simplifying production on it's head. Printer is Ender 3 Pro. CAD software is just tinkercad (free) which is for kids really but is powerful enough and has got some new shapes recently. This makes the 3D stl files. The slicer software takes the stl files and is called "ultamaker cura" (free) - this makes the gcode files that you stick on a memory card and put in the printer. The gcode sets up the way the printer builds up the model, including filament thickness, layering height, infill structure, temp of print head and bed etc. The software has defaults for the enders printer that I haven't needed to play with. It is very easy and lots of youtube vids - only tricky bit I found is levelling the bed - it's manual on a Ender 3 Pro. You need to get this right or you can end up with a big mess! Not a problem once you get the hang - once the first layers stick to the bed you're away really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 13 hours ago, ajd said: Went with a guess at 100mm but seems a bit on the big side. In the end tried printing two threaded bolts on the back with nuts which should fit through the grill if I measured it right, though they on the small side for the resolution of the printer. These aspects of 3D printing are great - add complexity, it’s free! You should be able to adjust the fineness of the layers in the slicer. We have been using layers as thin as 0.01mm for some things. Obviously the print takes a lot longer but the detail is amazing. Also, have you used supports in the slicer? With supports you can print any overhang or angle you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busybee Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 32 minutes ago, ajd said: The The first smaller one I printed in one go, but : a) easier to print in two parts to paint the numbers silver and the backing black (I know that is not quite right but saves on any faff masking etc.). - then just superglue together, b) it is best to ensure the starting surface is flat and whilst you can print overhangs they either have to be small or at an angle. You might have noticed on the funnel that the upper funnel part is about the shallowest overhang you'd want and you can see how the this starts to look "on the limit" for printing (the funnel started from the oil filler neck being end being printed on the base). For the badge, it would not be possible to start printing the 3.2 and the go into the base as an overhang - you could try but the surface finish would be poor and would likely fail I suspect. It's really not a faff to superglue the parts and it can make the process easier - I actually went this way for the painting reason but then twigged it made the bolt bit easier too. It is fun to do as you learn better ways to make things as you go and it turns usual ideas about simplifying production on it's head. Printer is Ender 3 Pro. CAD software is just tinkercad (free) which is for kids really but is powerful enough and has got some new shapes recently. This makes the 3D stl files. The slicer software takes the stl files and is called "ultamaker cura" (free) - this makes the gcode files that you stick on a memory card and put in the printer. The gcode sets up the way the printer builds up the model, including filament thickness, layering height, infill structure, temp of print head and bed etc. The software has defaults for the enders printer that I haven't needed to play with. It is very easy and lots of youtube vids - only tricky bit I found is levelling the bed - it's manual on a Ender 3 Pro. You need to get this right or you can end up with a big mess! Not a problem once you get the hang - once the first layers stick to the bed you're away really. Thanks James. Top info. I’ll have a look for a bargain ender 👍 Just an idea but a sticky on here with common print files would be a great resource? Grills, knobs etc. Just an idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 5 hours ago, Phill said: You should be able to adjust the fineness of the layers in the slicer. We have been using layers as thin as 0.01mm for some things. Obviously the print takes a lot longer but the detail is amazing. Also, have you used supports in the slicer? With supports you can print any overhang or angle you want. On mine you can play with the thickness a bit - 0.12mm seems the smallest I can go to but takes ages, default / standard is about 0.2mm and 0.28mm is fastest. I do find it a bit risky to print small items - anything under 3mm (like a small pin item) in size can deform but maybe my settings are not right. I've tried the supports for some things and it is quite clever the way it pulls away from the part but can still leave some sign - do you find it leaves any marks? I do find PLA does not lend itself to sanding - it's possible but it doesn't exactly like it! I did buy some some ABS by mistake and my that is hard to print - have given up on it really - needs to be hotter 240C and with controlled cooling - fascinating how if it is not hot enough it just delaminates or doesn't stick and you end up with a fibrous mess. Just shows how forgiving & easy to use PLA is even for big parts. Shame as I expect if you can get it right ABS is a much better material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Pla is hard to sand and yes the supports do leave some marks. We also bought some ABS by mistake and it is horrible. You really need an enclosed printer to use it. We use 200 nozzle and 60 bed for the pla and it works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Fits OK, does it look a bit big and possibly in the wrong place? (didn’t spend any time sanding it so is a bit rough finish). In hindsight I think I prefer it without but might try and see if a smaller one looks better. Did any IB cars ever have these badges? I realise the 3.2 never had them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy M Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Quite like that - should do yourself a 3.8 one you can stick on for Le Mans Classic or similar - see how many conversations it starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat fuchs Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 I believe they were fitted to the 2.7 MFI IB cars but not seen them on any other IB models. I associate those badges with the aluminium grilles which have tiny locating holes for the badge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asm993 Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 17 minutes ago, fat fuchs said: I believe they were fitted to the 2.7 MFI IB cars but not seen them on any other IB models. I associate those badges with the aluminium grilles which have tiny locating holes for the badge. yup, i have a "2.7" on my mfi carrera. I can measure it if helps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajd Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 1 hour ago, asm993 said: yup, i have a "2.7" on my mfi carrera. I can measure it if helps? Yes please. This one is 100mm - I’m guessing a real one is about 90mm. I guess there was only ever 2.7 on an IB from 74 to when the SC came in from which point there were no more grill badges in anything? There was never a 3.0 badge even on the wide RS from that era? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busybee Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 1 hour ago, ajd said: Fits OK, does it look a bit big and possibly in the wrong place? (didn’t spend any time sanding it so is a bit rough finish). In hindsight I think I prefer it without but might try and see if a smaller one looks better. Did any IB cars ever have these badges? I realise the 3.2 never had them. Looks great! Can I have a 3.8 one?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Type911 Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Porsche fitted 2.4 & 2.7 badges to the grille. Carbone do all the versions; https://car-bone.pl/shop/displacement-badge/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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