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Virgin brake bleed on 3.2 g50


limalbeps

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I’ve never bled the brakes on my 3.2, but think the pedal feels softer than I think it should. I have tested the fluid with one of those pen devices and it’s not urgent but not entirely free of moisture.  I’ve read up on it and think I should expand my experience.....

 

so...I have bought a Sealey Vs820 pressure bleeder, a 7 9mm flange nut spanner, a hose pinch, a syringe, and1 litre of MotulRBF 660.  It sounds like I am keeping Amazon in business, but wanted to start on the right foot!

I plan to lift the car level on stand jacks, Wheels off, soak all bleed nipples leave it a day and then start.  So here’s my thinking, and questions...

1) pinch overflow

2) remove the fluid from the reservoir ......how much...all or to a set level?

3) top reservoir with new,  fill the Sealey with new fluid and attach to Reservoir. Pressurise to 14psi

4) bleed callipers starting from left rear.  I would prefer not to mess with the clutch slave as it’s a recently installed Mpl ....is this okay,or is clutch slave not to be avoided?
 

comments much appreciated

 

 

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1) Yep

2) DOesn't matter how much you remove - I normally don't bother actually but probably end up wasting more new fluid than I otherwise would.

3) Yep.

4) Start at the caliper furthest from the reservoir and fish at the closest. Personally I would do the clutch slave - you say it's new but if your fluid test is showing marginal then that's the fluid you have in your clutch slave.

Edited by Chris_911
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If it is new then there should not be any problem undoing the bleed nipple on the clutch slave so I would do it.  Mine is welded solid and without much access then I am sure I will snap the nipple.  I new slave cylinder at some point for me!  If you regularly bleed it you should avoid my problem.

On syringing out the old stuff, the more you remove the less old stuff you have to draw through the lines so get as much out as possible. Fill with new and then having left it for a while give the reservoir a few taps to release any bubble you have created in the reservoir itself.

 

Have fun.

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58 minutes ago, limalbeps said:

 fill the Sealey with new fluid and attach to Reservoir. Pressurise to 14psi

Thats the official way to do it but can get a bit messy as you pressurise and depressurise the system. I prefer to just use the brake bleeder device as a source of pressure and keep an eye on the reservoir and top up as required.

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I couldn't find anywhere to pinch the overflow off as it all seemed to be rigid plastic which rather defeated using my Easybleed.  However I found the reservoir was high enough that even with the front or rear on stands there was enough head of fluid that it bled through just under gravity with no problem.

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Make sure your nipple spanners are narrow fit.  Mine are a bit chunky so don't fit deep enough onto the nipple as the surrounding metal of the caliper gets in the way.  I cut a slot into a regular ring spanner to overcome the problem at the time.  Probably a better quality or different brand of spanner will be fine.

I never bother filling the actually pressure bleed vessel with fluid, I just keep an eye on the actual fluid res on the car and top up a couple of times.  You use less fluid and create less mess.  Actually what Jevvy said.

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Appreciate all the feedback....given the location of the clutch slave, it looks like a PITA and Bentley says that I need to operate the pedal. I am doing this solo, so not sure I can do this.....sound feeble, but I may take off the wheel and see what access there is.....again, any input would be greatly appreciated

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If there is nothing wrong with your clutch pedal/feel I'd leave the clutch slave alone, otherwise it could probably escalate into the world of unpleasant.  

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Clutch slave is eminently doable. Access is awkward but it's not a nightmare scenario.

Personally I would unbolt the slave - you say it's new - but leave the hydraulic hose connected. That way you can bleed it with the bleed screw uppermost ensuring a 'good' bleed.

Can't understand not doing it personally. You say your fluid is marginal - that's what is in the slave.

Can you not ask friendly neighbour to operate the pedal? I'm sure you could do it and still respect social distancing.

I'm struggling to remember whether I operated the pedal last time I bled the clutch - I think I did.

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The Sealey tool is a pressure bleeder, you pressurise the brake reservoir and flush fluid that way. Clutch shares the same reservoir, so just release the bleed screw and fresh fluid should flow. Bentley manual says to press the pedal a few times then close the bleed screw with pedal fully down. Can't see why this is necessary, but you could do that by yourself with a suitable pedal pusher (piece of wood etc). Worst case is you don't get 100% of the old fluid out.....

 

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You are only flushing out old and putting in new.  Not like you are trying to get air out which is why you would need to pump the pedal.  As per the brakes, if you aren't pressurising the sealy bleeder then gravity should be your friend anyway.  Only nightmare I see is if you fubar the nipple but as said before if it is new the chance of that is minimised.

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  • 2 years later...

A very helpful thread.

One question please (albeit for my SC not a 3.2): the reservoir filter seems to be locked in place by this central pin. Does this just pull out with a pair of pliers or is there another technique to remove it?IMG-20220723-WA0021.thumb.jpeg.c473db6c08305dcd23bd6352de3b88db.jpeg

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8 minutes ago, Dyaque said:

Also, if I am replacing normal Dot 4 with ATE Typ 200 Dot 4, is it more advisable to do the clutch cylinder than not?

If it's a stock SC, It's a cable clutch not hydraulic 

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4 hours ago, Dyaque said:

A very helpful thread.

One question please (albeit for my SC not a 3.2): the reservoir filter seems to be locked in place by this central pin. Does this just pull out with a pair of pliers or is there another technique to remove it?IMG-20220723-WA0021.thumb.jpeg.c473db6c08305dcd23bd6352de3b88db.jpeg

Yes, just pull upwards.  Be careful not to splash / drip brake fluid where you don’t want it

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Good spot, yes

Mine has a big flat central part of the filter mesh.  I just pull out on that with my long nose pliers 

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