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asm993

Respray questions

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HI. I am going to bite teh bullet and get my car resprayed and any rust attended to. It needs a door skin, one sill and bottom of the b post,etc.

I have a chap in mind but I want to make sure that I ask the right questions so that I can be sure of what i'll get back.

So, with that in mind, would anyone like to suggest the "right" questions to ask? i.e. the sort of "wish i'd asked that before he started" type stuff.

I want to know how he'll strip the paint off -I dont want any bits acid dipped for instance.

whats the best paint to use Lechler? Glasurit?

Rust proofing, i.e. cavity injection

Any suggestions as to what I need to know before he has the car would be great. Obviously keen to avoid any "surprises".

cheers

Will

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When you say strip the paint off are you considering bare metal respray of the whole car?

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So just to be clear, windows out or remove every part to bare shell and then strip paint inside and out? IMHO I don't see the point of a bare metal respray. The costs must outweigh the benefits unless you are aiming at a concourse example. Sound paint protects the car, taking it off increases the risk of introducing rust to an area that was previously sound?

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sound paint also hides many sins

I'd go bare metal too, just for peace of mind and I'm sure the painter would appreciate starting from a fresh canvas

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I think I have to go bare metal, although I also see the point of not disturbing a sound surface. I think its had some paint in the past and i'm sure i can see a darker primer under some sections of paint. I want to be sure its absolutely 100% and of course, only want to do it the once! 

Having said which, all of these things are still up for discussion, hence my post:)

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Painters don’t like going over someone else’s work...:twocents:

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THats a good point Doc. If its been bare metalled then any problems are 100% down to the painter.

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I'd take the car to a couple of reputable bodyshops and let them look at it. Bare metal on any area where they are rust-prone makes obvious sense, as does glass out, but perhaps the man who is potentially doing the job can make a better call on necessity of a total bare metal job. In my experience they have an uncanny ability to spot flaws and see trouble even under the paint! 

Golden rule; NEVER tell them you are in no rush or to take their time!! 

Good luck. 

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My car is being done atm. Mostly the paint was removed by disc but some areas like headlamp bowls need to be sandblasted to get into the crevices. There was so much paint on mine that on the gutters he used paint stripper. Rust repairs mostly done by either cutting out the problem areas or adding metal and grinding back. Some of the products available today are first class, various shops will have a particular system they like to use.

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Agree with Chris above and I would be more concerned about finding the right body shop than what questions to ask.  I wouldn’t ask someone with a good reputation how they are going to do the job, it’s what they do.

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Yes, once you've defined the scope of works clearly agree the schedule. I've never come across an industry that cared less about breaking timescales - a common ruse is to break the car down fast so it appears something is happening then push it into a corner with all the others to gather dust (lots of it) until eventually the owner loses patience, threatens to pull the car out and then somehow it leapfrogs back to the top of the list. 

Due diligence required - the bad far out number the good.

I actually think I lot of bodyshops don't really want restorations, which are very hard to quantify the labour hours on. They make more money churning out bread and butter stuff like bumper resprays and simple accident repairs. 

 

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1 hour ago, asm993 said:

THats a good point Doc. If its been bare metalled then any problems are 100% down to the painter.

That was my thinking!

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here's a weird one...has anyone had their car resprayed/restored and then felt an odd compulsion to sell it given that its looking as good as it will ever do?

 

 

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57 minutes ago, asm993 said:

here's a weird one...has anyone had their car resprayed/restored and then felt an odd compulsion to sell it given that its looking as good as it will ever do?

 

 

Ease fix, drive it hard and long, make it dirty, and hey presto the compulsion to sell is removed!

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Bare metal is good but removes the protective coating from the steel - G's were the first 911's to be galvanised.

It’s also a stack more work as every tiny imperfection (including those from manufacture) needs to be rectified.  

Most modern paint systems give 100% results over existing paint. Even fillers and stoppers are fully compatible with paint. 

Find the body shop and take advice from them.  They will know their paint system and what works.

If you want to spec a paint manufacturer I would recommend finding one that uses that system.

Bare metaling the outside is not going to remove the hidden nast from the inner cavities.

Oven baking or dipping requires the outer sills to be removed to extract the heater tubes. 

 

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I would suggest asking a lot more about corrosion correction and the corresponding fabrication work.  Unless you know otherwise, suspect both B pillars (especially around the engine lid release pull handle), the kidney bowls, sills, the areas around the rear lights and the area around the oil tank aperture in the engine bay; then the bottom corners of the windscreen and rear screen; and maybe around the impact bumper mounts.  Look particularly for any previous fabrication repairs.  Fabrication can take much longer than painting.

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Modern paints are so good these days losing the original galvanising isn't a big problem IMO.

You risk a reaction to any paint that's been done before if you don't bare metal too, and that could end up costing thousands to rectify.

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I would totally take off the paint and use a proper modern primer on the car. Do not paint over old paint. This is a proper car so it deserves decent prep and top coat.

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