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3.2 not starting


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Quick update:  I have checked most of the ECU connections following the Bentley's check list and all appears OK.  The high altitude switch isn't showing continuity however, so need to look at this a little further. I also need to check that all injectors are activated, there is a definite click from the engine bay when each bank is energised but I can't tell how many are clicking, so middle son will get roped into that tomorrow.  That leaves the ECU itself, which has been dispatched to be checked, and if necessary repaired, should hear back on this Monday/Tuesday.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The saga continues.  ECU back and has been remanufactured.  Some bits were just out of spec and/or on the edge of spec.  They offered a cheaper potential fix but for a bit more money I went for a full re-manufacture for peace of mind and a full guarantee.  Also popped a new DME relay on for good measure.  Car seems more keen to start but still doesn't.  Have now got a clear signal to the injectors which I didn't seem to have before.  The spark however looks weak, it's small and yellow / orange whereas I think it should be fat and blue/white, so coil and/or earth I'd guess.  Coil was out of spec when I tested it so new coil will go on today or tomorrow.  I'll re-check the earths as well.  If that doesn't sort it, I have an auto electrical arriving Monday for a few little jobs - he might have one more.  Good news is he has just worked on the install of a 3.2 into a Camper so should be familiar with how it works.

Edited by Fuchs915
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On 21/08/2020 at 10:44, Chris_911 said:

Sorry you're still having issues.

Can I ask who you used for the ECU and the price please?

Cheers Chris.  ATP in Cannock, about £450.

On 21/08/2020 at 11:24, SP72 said:

The new silver Bosch coils made in Brazil don’t have a great rep - maybe seek out an original black one if you can 

Yep, they do seem to have QC issues.  I have put the new one on, and have kept the old one as a spare, just in case.

Electrician has been this morning.  Still not running but sounds closer.  He identified some poor earths that have been sorted, and also removed the old alarm wiring so all much tidier now.

276710D3-B1A5-44CE-8C25-E2DE2F3753E6_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.b0fb4b1db1889be0d2f4039c319b30b6.jpeg

 

He also contacted the owner of a 3.2 engine that is going into a camper van who has generously offered to let me borrow some known good components to swap out and test on my engine.  Given all the attempts at running the engine has had, I'll remove the plugs for a clean  this afternoon and leave for a day or so to hopefully any flooding can clear.  Whilst still not running, the list of possible causes is getting shorter, so it's all progress to the end goal.

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Here's a shot of the plugs, 1-6 left to right, as they came out of the car.  3 looked pretty clean, the others all varying degrees of dirty.  All now cleaned up and ready to go back in.  I have also sent the injectors off to be checked, etc. as the car will probably not be running for a week or so. If nothing else, it will be another thing off the list.

9BF9870F-C5AA-4CAB-8925-148886A0E043_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.f08c0df670fc1f87054ac08d8df04375.jpeg

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I would copy/paste all your info on here into an email to Charles Marsland. He is retired from any spannering now but still acts as technical advisor for 3.2's for PCGB. He knows just about everything for these cars.

3.2carrera@googlemail.com 

worth a try and he's a lovely bloke.

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2 hours ago, Wingnonut said:

They look awfully clean! How long have they been in?

That's probably because I gave them all a quick clean a few weeks ago! :D They've got this grubby during a couple of weeks of trying to get it started.

 

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

I would copy/paste all your info on here into an email to Charles Marsland. He is retired from any spannering now but still acts as technical advisor for 3.2's for PCGB. He knows just about everything for these cars.

3.2carrera@googlemail.com 

worth a try and he's a lovely bloke.

Cheers Mark, hadn't thought about going through PCGB channels, even though I am a member.  I remember speaking to CM some years ago, as you say very knowledgeable and a nice guy too.

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I am picking up the known working flywheel sensors tomorrow so, in preparation, wriggled under the car for half an hour this evening.  Lower hex bolt came out without too much effort, top one was more fiddly but got it in the end with a longer ball ended bit.  Gave them both a gentle wiggle, rotating back and forth and pulling them gently.  They both came free, which is a bit of a result so have been able to leave the mount in place. :D Just need to mark them so I know which is which when they are removed fully and then try the replacements.  I also now need to think if I can suffer knowing how scabby the tin is...:o

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Edited by Fuchs915
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Collected the known sensors.  One was stuck in the support so left that there and tried it with the one I could remove and one of my old sensors.  The good news is that it starts!  Bad news is that it's backfiring and hunting between 1000 and 2000 RPM.  It takes a while for it to run, which it does slowly at first, then steadily increases until it starts hunting. Ordered 2 new sensors and I'll get those on when they arrive.  Any thoughts on the backfire and hunting?

Cheers

Kevin

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With new injectors and all your fiddling mayhap you need to adjust the mixture screw as well as the ICV? I remember from my 3.2 days that you bypass the ICV as Longshanks says and you adjust the mixture and idle speed at the same time to get it all in spec and running smoothly at idle.

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I mentioned stale fuel as this happened to my old car after a partial fill of SUL at a mway service station(£1.50/litre 😬)

At idle, it was cycling constantly between 800 and 1600 rpm - at that price, I assumed that not many would have used it so it had been sat in the storage tanks for sometime.

A dose of Redex sorted it immediately 

Guessing Kevin’s car has not moved for a while, so could be related.

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16 hours ago, SP72 said:

Bad/stale fuel ?  Try some redex

 

15 hours ago, Ian Comerford said:

Hunting should be either rich or a vacuum leak from what I understand from my recent issues.

 

13 hours ago, longman said:

Hunting on a 3.2 may be the idle control

valve , easy to bypass and check though 

 

2 hours ago, Lesworth said:

With new injectors and all your fiddling mayhap you need to adjust the mixture screw as well as the ICV? I remember from my 3.2 days that you bypass the ICV as Longshanks says and you adjust the mixture and idle speed at the same time to get it all in spec and running smoothly at idle.

Thanks all.  The ICV seemed to be working OK not that long ago but it's an easy check so will add to the 'next steps' list.  SP is right, the car hasn't moved for a while and I did pretty much empty the old fuel out a few weeks ago so some fresh fuel is on the list.  There don't appear to be any obvious vacuum leaks but will go through everything again to be certain.

Fuel mixture isn't something I've touched before so will read up on that, but assume it may be rich due to the backfiring.

This should keep me busy for a few hours.   

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, the effort continues.  I popped into the garage and managed to make this (isn't YouTube just dandy?):

6E67FB04-64B1-4A81-9EE9-824143DC8936_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.89117b41af569e6a8e164037f706a453.jpeg

A couple of old tyre valves, a cheaper soldering iron and a gherkin jar.  Drill the lid, epoxy the iron to the lid, pop the valves in and make sure it seals nicely.  An old, probably once fashionable, cotton shirt died in the making of this.  Smother the shirt material with baby oil (plentiful supply in our house ;))  and leave to soak overnight.  I connected a tube to one side having removed the valve innards.  Removed the air filter and covered the air intake with a nitrile glove, having propped the barn door open with a small screw driver.  Snipped the tip of one of the glove's fingers, pass tube through the tip and used self amalgamating tape to secure and seal.  Also popped a glove over the end of the exhaust to help better seal the system.

Plug in soldering iron and leave for a few minutes.  Jar fills with smoke so then attach air supply that pushes smoke into the induction.  I tried my bike pump initially, but wasn't getting enough air through so set the compressor on very low and connected my tyre gauge.  Much better.  Smoke started coming out from behind the fan, with some around the left hand intake to head joints.  Removed the fan motor and ducting for a better look.  Repeat the process and smoke was pouring out of one of the joints and to a lesser extent the other 2 so I have a decent air leak or 3.  Hopefully this will be the issue.  An order going in for some more gaskets, strip the induction back off and go again.

It's frustrating that I haven't been able to use the car, but the voyage of discovery is good and hopefully will be able to get this sorted and then start using it, just in time for me to stop using it while the front seats get a refresh. :homersimpson:

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On 01/10/2020 at 20:13, Ian Comerford said:

Where were the vacuum leaks, it might be useful to share this knowledge?

So far looks as though from between intake manifold and the head, no.3 is worst, 1 and 2 also appear to be leaking a bit.  4,5 and 6 seem OK.  New gaskets and spacers arriving today.  Given how much comes out of 3, I am guessing a gasket has failed somehow, I think they can get sucked inwards.  Also with the amount of smoke coming through on no.3, there may be other smaller leaks that haven't yet become apparent, so will be checking at key stages as I put it all back together.

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8 hours ago, Lesworth said:

Kev, didn't you replace the gaskets and spacers when you had the intake off previously or did I imagine that?

I did the gaskets but I assume I didn’t torque them down correctly. As it’s all coming off again thought it best to just replace it all, including new spacers which I didn’t do last time.

4 hours ago, Phill said:

Very ingenious! Would have been great to see a video of it working.

I’ll see what I can do

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